Archive through September 29, 2018

[jwiggins]

Digger
Parts Store, 1/8" key stock,,, ok CooL, Thanks

Hydro,

"Now how the heck does that happen?"

 

[eford]

Simple shock I think. I've had to change push mower flywheel keys if the owner hit something hard, but not enough to bend the crank. Culvert, small bush stumps, etc. If it ever backfired, even before Jason got it, started weakening it.

 

[mgonitzke]

B&S pushmower engine flywheel keys are aluminum. Starter/Generator one is steel. Very, very, very unlikely it sheared. In his picture, it looks like the nut is loose, so it may have simply fallen out.

 

[eford]

Thanks Matt

 

[rrschmitt]

Jason W,

Matt's right, in addition to the sheared key, you are missing the spring lock washer that goes on the shaft between the nut and pulley hub. Better pick one of those up at the parts store as well. The Delco Remy number is 1941978

Hydro,

Thanks for the reminder about Richard's FAQ on the brake return springs though it didn't include the secret of installing the LH style return spring. That is hook the front end of the spring on the clevis pin, then take a several foot long piece of mechanics wire, bend it in the middle and feed the loop end in along side the frame rail from the back end until you can hook the rear spring hook to the wire. Then grab a hold of the wire with a pair of pliers and pull rearward until you can then attach the spring hook to the transmission mount shown in Richards last picture. Easy as that.

 

[dmcphee]

Hello - Already asked a few guys some questions on my 122 via email. It runs real nice, has creeper gear, lights front and rear, and previous owner did a decent job painting it (some overspray, etc.) I want to get it mowing and it came with a 38" deck. Ordered a new belt from CC Specialties (3/8" x 81) because the Tractor Supply belt kept flying off. Will also adjust the wheels/pulleys to correct that issue.

Problem I am having is the mower deck lever. There's a button that keeps sticking in and not springing back. The tractor probably sat out for some time and it appears that a bunch of paint may have drained into the lever possibly drying up the spring. I have put a lot of oil, Liquid Wrench, etc into the gap between the button and the lever and manually reached down and pulled the inner rod up into the adjustment bracket many many times to try to get it going. No luck.

Wondering how hard it is to disassemble the entire lever from the tractor. It looks like it is all one unit (the lever is attached to the undercarriage that reaches over to the left side of the tractor and raises and lower the deck.

There is also a thin aluminum cover over the lower part of the lever that protects the inner workings I imagine...I was tempted to pry that off and spray oil in but don't want to cob it up.

Had this tractor for a week now and looking forward to mowing with it.

D

 

[klorenz]

Don, The button on your lift arm is threaded onto the inner rod. If you can unscrew it and get it out, maybe that will help you clean things up better. Also make sure the arm itself isn't bent. I have seen them bent backward from someone trying to lift something way too heavy. This can cause the inner rod to rub or bind. Just my experience.

 

[dmcphee]

Thanks Kirk. I’ll try that. Much appreciated. Yes, it is bent back a little. Good call.

 

[hydroharry]

Don - hope you see this before you attempt to remove the button on your lift arm. Be very very careful in your attempt to unscrew the button. If it snaps off you're gonna need a complete new lift arm assembly which is NLA - and you'll have to get it used from another tractor.

 

[klorenz]

Harry,

Good advice. Should have said that myself. Guess I have been lucky and never had one break.

 

[klorenz]

On Jason's generator--

I think he may need more than just the piece of key stock and lock washer. I have a feeling that pulley is toast!

 

[dmcphee]

Harry - Thanks for the heads up. I’ll be careful...I’ll treat her like a newborn. Lol. Might have to use vice grips with a cloth just to keep it from getting scarred. I suppose it’s “lefty loosey” on the button?

If she don’t budge I may just pour another bottle of liquid wrench in there and hope for the best.

 

[danderson]

Don- 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Great for loosing stuff up.

 

[dmcphee]

Doug - Thanks. Will try it and report back. Always good to get alternatives.

 

[klorenz]

Don-
Yep, it's "lefty loosey"

 

[mgonitzke]

It's not a big deal if it breaks. It's just a round steel rod with a bend in one end and the other end threaded. The bend has to be put in after the rod is installed most of the way.

 

[mgwin]

Don,

Use a couple of layers of cardboard instead of a cloth to keep from scratching the button. The vise grips will eat that cloth up.

Matt,

Your post beat mine by just a smidgen. LOL!

 

[hydroharry]

Don - well I see Matt said it's not a big deal if the button breaks off when you attempt to remove it. He mentions you can just make up a new rod with a bend on one end and threads on the other. Well, to me that's a PIA. And besides that you will very likely need a new button as well, and most likely a new spring which is causing you problems now, BUT THE REAL PROBLEM is very likely the little washer that sits inside the tube below the spring. Its likely rotted away and allowing the spring to compress and stick so it doesn't push the button back up.

Have a look at the parts explosion on the Cub Cadet website so you can see how everything fits together. Here's a link:
https://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ARIPartFinderView?storeId=10051&catalogId=14101&langId=-1#/Cub_Cadet/122/Implement_Handle_%26_Connections/001860-A/0018600023

Your efforts to break down the rust using liquid wrench or any of the other concoctions mentioned on here are very likely not working since the button screws onto the top of the rod and covers the threads. To get the fluid into the threads you'll have to remove the lift arm assembly, plug the area around the button, turn the assembly upside down and pour in your rust buster fluid, and then leave it a couple days and hope the fluid doesn't leak out all over the place.
(Ooh, and getting the lift arm off is a BIG PIA since you have to remove the foot rests and that bolt that holds the front of the foot rest is a bear to get to on one side).

I see Charlie has the new buttons and new springs but doesn't list the washer which is NLA. You can probably figure out a washer that will fit and work. It should be just under the diameter of the tube hole, and have a hole that fits over the rod diameter. Once the button and spring is removed it slips in from the top of the tube and will drop to the point of the indentations (which might be covered up by the grip).

Hope this helps. Overall it's a great design, that IH toughened up as things went on, but it does succumb to rust over time.

 

[wshytle]

Hydro-

Those rods are really easy to make. It's just cold rolled 5/16" rod and with the old rod out to duplicate the length it can be done in an hour or less. The hardest part is taking out the old and putting in the new but with the front of the tractor lifted (or driven over a ditch at 90*) that part is even easy.

We had a heated debate over this subject a few years back. I've seen so many of these rods where the PO has welded a piece of 3/8" stock to make the bend. The teeth in the ratchet are spaced at 3/8" so the rod/button does more turning trying to seat the locking bend. The 5/16" allows a 32nd on each side and works like IH intended.

.

 

[dmcphee]

Great feedback guys. Thanks so much. Rained here all day so no chance to try my hand at it. Will report back. Great link Harry. Lots to learn but fun nonetheless. D