Archive through September 29, 2004

[jkoenig]

Help O learned ones!!

My Kohler dealer mentioned to me today that he had a customer in there this week who is rebuilding a k301 for his "new" old Cub. He claims P.O. still has "every accessory implement that was ever made for it".

These include but are not limited to a loader and a backhoe!! I've never heard of anyone other than Nate F. with a hoe on a Cub.

Please help me figure this one out. The guy name-dropped the original owner and almost all of you would recognize the name, and he had (deceased) the money to have ordered several of everything to go with it.

I would really appreciate any info on what implements were available circa IH w/a 301 powerplant. Pics are always helpful.

Thanks very much.

Where do you think I'm going tomorrow?

 

[kmorrow]

Charlie, I haven't had a problem with the Lawn-Boy/IH pushmowers showing up too often. I only have one, so if you run across any you don't want, please let me know and we'll herd them south for the duration.

Jim S., the 108 is toward the low end of the wide-frame series. Gear drives in this series were the 108 and the 128, hydros were the 109, 129, 149, and 169. Most of the 108s I've seen were kinda bare-bones tractors without many options, and of the two gear drives the 128s seem to be somewhat more popular, although they typically don't have a whole lot in the way of options either. I have a 128 that has a 14hp replacement engine, but IH didn't build any 14hp gear drives that I know of, unless there's one hidden away in the 82 series that I'm not familiar with.

 

[digger]

A lot OT but it will affect a lot of guys.

***Policy Change: Ending Listings Early***

Beginning next week, if a listing has 12 or fewer hours remaining and has, or had, a winning bid during the final 12 hours of the listing, the seller will no longer be able to end the listing, except to sell to the current high bidder on eBay. Sellers may still cancel specific bids that they find unwelcome, but may no longer utilize the "cancel all bids and end this item" feature.

 

[mgonitzke]

Kenny-

You forgot the 86, the 8h.p. gear drive in that series. Also, IH did make a 16h.p. gear drive, the 582. It had a briggs twin.

 

[dplogman]

Mr. Plow, Kraig: I did make extra sure I put the throwout bearing in the right direction- the collar that sticks out goes toward the clutch disk. I've made that mistake on my 66MGB (thats another story). If I took the (cub) clutch shroud off and started her up, seems like the whole clutch assembly should not rotate when the clutch pedal is depressed- right? Havent checked this yet, could that mean there is dirt etc in the hole binding that input shaft? Thanks for the photos and advice! Dave

 

[sblunier]

David,

Did you paint the assembly before you re-installed it???? Paint on the pilot bushing will mess it up.

Try taking your Dremel with a fine grit sanding drum installed and dress up the bore of the pilot bushing (ever so slightly) and then put a small amount of grease on the driveshaft stub before inserting it into the bushing.

Emry cloth the driveshaft stub as well...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim K., the 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 1200 and 1250 all used the K301. I don't know if they made them for any of these models but Kwik-Way made loaders for them and made loaders and backhoes for the 982 and later Super Garden Tractor Cubs.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim K., here is a Kwik-Way setup on a later non-<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet SGT.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a better view of just the backhoe.

 

[till]

T minus 527 hours and 30 minuets.......

The PTO is soaking in PB blaster and I will give it a try tonight with help from Ray Leo. He is dropping by to see that I'm doing this right.

Also, to see that I'm not abusing any of the Cubs.

Thanks for the riminders on how this is done.

 

[dplogman]

Steve- no painting, I did grease the end of he shaft, but all the monkeying with getting it back in sort of wiped it off. Guess the engine needs to come back off and I need to clean out that pinion hole

that sucks! thought it was back together. Well one more night rolling around on the floor of the garage. With engine running, should that assembly be stopped when clutch pedal is pushed in? Dave

 

[aaytay]

Dave-
If you do end up taking the engine out again, take, try rotating the clutch at the engine end in your hand. It should spin freely and not ossilate in a circle on the engine end. I had a clutch that had a bad roll pin in it at the tranny and and as you'd spin it by hand from the engine end, it wouldn't stay straight and kept trying to take a circular path, so it would not release as you describe.

I replaced that bad roll-pin and all is well.

 

[aaytay]

Charlie-
So it sounds like one could still cancel things bid by bid if they so choose?

Thanks for the heads-up!...

 

[dplogman]

Aaytay- Should I rotate the clutch assembly with the engine IN? or check it when the engine is out. I did not remove the shaft from the tranny- I simply took the yellow plate out and carefully hammered out the pins. if the shaft hung low (or high i think?) It wouldnt spin freely. I figured it was only supposed to be in correct alignment with the engine so it was ok. Which roll pin did you have to replace in your Cub?Was it one way in the back? there are quite a few to choose from. Thanks for the advice. Dave

 

[jkoenig]

Thanks Kraig,

I know which models had the 12 horse. It's the combination with a hoe that I found surprising.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, did that old binder full of brochures that you snapped up have any info on backhoes?

 

[pfunk]

David P. I just put a creeper in my Mini-560 and had trouble getting the clutch to disengage when I reinstalled it. I had replaced the driveshaft with one that had already been shortened. When I installed it, I had to grind gears to get it to shift. When you depress the clutch (engine NOT running) you should be able to rotate the driveshaft by hand. I couldn't. When I removed the 4 bolts holding the engine in place and "wiggled" the engine around, I still couldn't rotate the driveshaft with the clutch depressed. I finally took the engine out, sanded down the driveshaft a little (both on length and diameter -- it seemed to me it was seating a little deep) and placed the engine back in the tractor. When I depressed the clutch, I could turn the driveshaft both before and after I installed the engine bolts. Still don't know if it was the length or diameter, but it now works. Hope this helps.

 

[aaytay]

Dave-
When you have the engine out, just grab the clutch-shaft and rotate it. It should just rotate freely and not want to wobble all around. The one I saw had a point to it at which it would not stay in the horizontal plane and would lift up 2-3" on the engine end during it's rotation as if it was bent, but I previously had it all apart and it rolled straight when it was just a shaft of steel lying on the table with nothing attached to it. Again, check this with the engine out if you do end up removing it.

There's a coupler that attaches the clutch-shaft to the tranny input stub in the rear-end. That coupler has two spirol-pins through it. I don't remember which spirol-pin it was that was bad, but it was one of those two.

If you're rotates freely, then don't mess with it.

Not to confuse this issue too much, but have you played around with just loosening the engine mounting bolts and moving the engine a bit to see if the alignment isn't quite right? If you're going to take the engine out anyway, you might want to give that a try as you're loosening the engine mount bolts

 

[rbedell]

Gentlemen:

I am working on the Cast Iron rear end of my 100. I had to have to welding done on the inside and that process burnt off that "red coating". My question(s) are: (a) What is that red coating called, (b) I assume that it seals the pourous state of the cast, (c) can one obtain this coating material, and (d) is there a suitable alternative..???

Any information and advice would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks,

Roland

 

[dplogman]

Aaytay and Paul- thanks for the input. I think I'll try the easier route first- loosening up the engine mount bolts and wiggling the engine a bit. If no free turning, Guess I'll try removal again and sand down of the shaft, and clean out/ light sand/grease of the input hole. I hope there isnt a problem with that shaft, I'd rather not dig in that deep-I've got both bathrooms torn up and 2 toddlers!!