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Archive through September 28, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Nah Charles,
We have underground utilities,cars keep hitting the cable junction boxes,or dogs keep watering them.Kills my internet connection.Seen a screen I never saw on this website????
 
Jerry, The spec # for the black replacement engine in my 126 is 47504 ,12hp w/balance gears,until I o'hauled it,that is.
 
I have a 1100 Cub and thinking about putting a 10 HP. kohler on it. Can anyone tell me how much trouble I am going to get into. I Just like the Kohler more than the Briggs!!! I have been told I am posting in the right place I hope? Will the peerless transmission hold up? I am just going to mow with it.
Joe
 
Joe,
That Peerless transmission is the same that JD uses on it's 110/112 and 200 series. They put a 16 hp Kohler on the 216 which has that Peerless transmission, likewise a 10 hp on the 210, a 12 hp on a 212 and a 14 hp on a 214 - all Kohlers.
 
Richard T., Lewis P., I love the look of fresh paint in the morning.
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LOL Kraig. Looking really nice Lewis.

A question for you engine experts. I'm installing the crankshaft oil seals. I was installing the PTO side seal with a proper seating tool but the dang thing "warped" for lack of a better word. I tapped it in very straight to the bore but when tapping back to the 1/8 in. from the lip spec. about 1/4 of the seal "warped" back towards the bearing. Feeling it was something I did or even a bad seal I grabbed my last one and had the very same thing happen. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
 
RICHARD - re: oil seal installation. Not sure what your using as a "proper tool" maybe something like a large socket or piece of tubing or pipe, or even a flat piece of board wider & longer than the diameter of the seal if there's no shaft installed thru the seal yet. That's what I've used with success. I always apply a thin swipe of some sort of non-hardening gasket sealer to the OD of the seal as lube and an additional gasket between the seal & bore and wipe some grease or oil to the lip so it slides easily over the shaft. Something like non-hardening Permatex Aviation gasket sealer works on the OD but I've been using a blue gel-type sealer called Hylomar lately with excellent results. Tubes I have are made & sold by Permatex but I think you have to special order Hylomar from an autoparts store now since they don't market thru Permatex anymore.

Most times I just use a soft piece of wood about 3/4" to 1" square or round to gently tap in seals. You have to slowly work your way around the face of the seal, alternating sides really helps. A little distortion this way is to be expected. Even with a large socket or pipe the seal will try to go in crooked, so you have to gently tap the portion of the seal that's not as deep into the bore further so it's square with the shaft & bore again.

Just so there's no misunderstanding the seals in a Kohler should be installed with the flat face AWAY from the engine, the lip goes inside the engine. The depth of the seal in it's bore is "somewhat important" but what's critical is where the seal lip rides on the spinning shaft. A groove actually wears in the shaft and reduces the seal's ability to seal. With today's synthetic rubber seals it's not as critical but in the days of RAWHIDE or leather seals very perceptable grooves would wear in the shafts after 1000 hours of use on even low speed shafts. LOTS of leather seals left in my old FARMALL's. And they all leak like Hydro CC's because of those old leather seals.

If you remove the seals carefully and they lay flat on a flat surface you should be able to reinstall them. If they have been bent, I'd get new seals from an autoparts store or bearing supply house. The distortion could effect how the lip rides on the spinning shaft. The seals themselves should have a manufacturer name & number that most places can cross reference. If your using Kohler parts I suspect the seals are from NATIONAL Seal, pretty common & easy to find.
 
Lewis Palma
I love the look of fresh paint also! Nice job,i`am sure that tractor will look real nice when you get it back together.
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Oh and you will have mail soon.
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Dennis, thanks for the lesson. I picked up TWO new seals and will follow your advice about tapping around the seal. I was using a pipe that was perfect for the bore/seal but did not let you tweak the installation very well. Also, as per your wear groove observation, I will not set the new seal back as far as the original and that will help with what happened to the last two.
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Ironically, the flywheel side seal went in without a hitch.
 
Well today I decided to take the plung form the 1250s and 1650s and got a 128 in good shape. The 128 is in 80%, deck has a hole in it the man cut a hole in it on the right rear side of the deck. Who knows why, he died, and son had no idea. I can patch and paint. Need help on what information I can get on this 128?
 
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