Archive through September 26, 2008

[dfrisk]

ROY N. - When I rebuilt the carb in My K321 I hunted around in My collection of thread taps until I found one that started cutting threads in the old worn bronze bushing and carefully wiggled the tap/bushing around until the old bushing came out. A little dab of Locktight RED in the bushing bore will make sure the next peson who rebuilds that carb will have a harder time than I did. It's probably a good idea to replace the throttle shaft also.....both parts wear.

 

[rnajecki]

Dennis - using a thread tap is a great idea as I sure didn't want to drill the bushing out. I didn't think the throttle shaft would wear because it's steel vs bronze of the bushing. My throttle shaft looked good, so I reused it, rather than spend $35 on the kit.

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig, Yea I'm retired again, the only thing that means is I never get a day off anymore.

Don't know if I will finish this project before you as I have a habit of wandering off on different projects.

Also this 100 + degree temp is getting kind of old, think I will take my Goldwing to New Mexico and do some touring.

 

[klejeune]

Another option is to find aluminum cable stops that are 3/16" OD and drill them out to fit the throttle shaft. 1/4" ID and about 1/8" thick.

 

[dfrisk]

ROY - The copper content of the bronze is VERY tough and will wear steel. The lead, tin, & zinc really don't lubricate the shaft all that well in this dry application. Unless steel is coated or heat-treated it really doesn't wear all that well.
I 'Mic'd" My old throttle shaft when I rebuilt My carb and I seem to remember it having five to seven thousands inch of wear over the unworn parts of the shaft. That's a lot.

 

[sstanton]

So I ended up not having to make chains! Turns out my great uncle who was a cub guy for what seemed like forever gave all of his original chains to my older cousin who likes that green tractor co. who gave me a set of the originals!!! Also found 3 more complete plows at a local dealer who is going out of business, all of them are for NF but has one or two for WF. He is having an auction on Oct. 11 for ALL of the cub parts he's got which is everything under the sun. Ended up getting a starter/generator mount, center deck pulley, 2 clutch teaser springs and a lift arm for $10.00!! If anyone knows where Addison NY is you should try to make it there on the 11th. This stuff is going to go fast and CHEAP!!

 

[jhaddon]

quick update, i ended up just taking it in for repairs due to my lack of time... they cleaned the carb and it worked just fine.

i do need new deck belts though, suggestions?

 

[digger]

Jacob H.
The sponsors listed above have all the belts you'll ever need.

 

[klejeune]

Dennis,
That's why I wanted to use the aluminum cable stops for a bushing. The aluminum will wear before the shaft and if/ when it does I can just pop out the old bushing and press in a new one and have virtually no wear on the shaft if any at all. There was not a bushing in my carb originally anyway, just the recessed area to put one if needed. Oh, and the cable stops were like 30 cents a piece at a hardware store. You have to cut them in half for the proper thickness, so you get two right off the bat.

Keith

 

[rnajecki]

Keith - on the aluminum cable stops, I presume you meant to write 3/8" OD, not 3/16". Since the bronze bushings are 7/16", was the cable stop oversized and needed filing, or it was a very tight fit requiring a big hammer?

 

[klejeune]

Roy,
I actually meant the cable stop was originally 3/16" ID and I drilled it out to 1/4". I'll have to measure the OD, but I didn't have to file the bushing or drill out the recess in the carb body. It was a press fit, but not too much pressure was needed. Just light tapping with a soft mallet. I could almost press it in by hand.

I came across these by luck, not every hardware store has them. They are normally around 3/8" thick, but there was one in the box that was already about 1/8" thick so I used it and picked up I think 4 of the full size for other carbs if I need them. I keep meaning to make a couple for Jerry B. He's got some carbs that need them.

 

[rchristensen]

Question for Quiet line owners, have any of you changed the hydraulic lift handle over to the left side? When I switch back and forth from my 1450 to the 782 I sometimes reach for the lift on the wrong side. To me having the lift on the left side like the 782 seems more handy with the shift controls on the right side of both tractors.

I think I will reverse the lift lever on the 1650 I am rebuilding to give it a try. Just wondering if anybody had tried it and how they liked it.

 

[cgbusch]

after I adjusted the valve gap and the spark plug gap on my old FMZ engine I got noticably more power. How do I adjust the valve gaps on the cub kohler engines? I would assume there is some valve seat recession after 40 years.

 

[bnolte]

Chris,
IIRC, the valve gaps on the K301 engine are .008 for the intake, .017 for the exhaust, but you should check these manual for your particular engine. The lifters have a screw type adjuster, you will need 2 wrenches and a set of feeler gauges to adjust the lifters. There are other ways of improving performance that are valve related. I'm trying a few on the K241 I'm rebuilding at the moment, like some mild porting, and relief work around the valves

Here is the work I've done around the valves on the K241 I'm building. By tapering the transition between the valve seats and the combustion chamber, this will allow the engine to breathe more freely. I've also knocked down the high spots inside the intake port where the sand casting left rough areas. Hopefully the scars left by the extraction of a broken tap on the head bolt hole between the valves don't cause any problems. There's plenty of thread inside the block, but I'm a little concerned about reduced gasket contact area.

Here is a shot of the valve area on another K241 block I have that I haven't modified in any way. I probably should spray some oil on it to preserve it until it has its own day of glory.

 

[dbailey]

thanks for your replies about the plow hook up for my cub 122 I dont have a sleeve hitch on mine so I guess I had better get one before looking for plows. Ive located two one is an old brinley and the other is a new fabricated one the brinley is more costly than the homemade one would this be just a personal choice or would the brinley be worth the 20 or so extra thanks for the help this might be a dumb question but I dont know anything about about this

 

[nhasson]

Just figured I throw a picture of the 149 up here to see if the photo thing works.

 

[dmerkle]

David B,

There is no such thing as a dumb questions in my book.

I would go with the Brinly plow if it was me.

Brinly plows are easy to set up and you will have a source for parts if-when the need arrives.

 

[jnicklas]

Posted a couple of months ago about one of my cubs . My #2 149 was pumping a lot of smoke out the breather and oil fill tube. It was after about ½ hour of mowing. This happened about a month ago; stared smoking then lost all power then free wheeled to a stop. Got the pan off this week and the rod went and took the crank. Checked the rest of the innards and everything looks OK, along with a set of balance gears (that will be coming out). While I was turning the block around to check them cylinder walls I noticed some of the paint flaking off the side of the block above the generator bracket. I pulled the flaking paint off and to my surprise I found an old damage spot. And the paint was actually what appears to be an epoxy patch. I am up for opinions of the group. It appears to be working OK and no oil is present on the out side. I can not see anything at this time on the inside; I don’t have the crank out yet.


\popjpeg{94730,Pan when I took it off.}
\popjpeg{94731,Side of block.}

 

[jnicklas]

Looks like I messed up on the pictures. Will try again.

 

[jnicklas]

Looks like they worked this time. Bottom is the side of the block. The boss at the bottom is the generator mounting pad.