Archive through September 24, 2007

[rchristensen]

I just finished a project that has been on my mind for some time and thought I would share. May eat up some bandwidth so bear with me or delete it if you need too.

Some may remember that last year I built a shade for my 1450, made it to be adjustable, mounted to my receiver hitch for quick removal and used a fiberglass cement mixing tray for the cover.

It worked good but this year I decided to build one for my 782 and decided to go a different route. Found out that you really don't need all of the adjustment range as one size just about fits all and you really don't need the quick removal as you leave it on all the time. Also using the reciever hitch mounting tied up the receiver hitch.

For my 782 I wanted it to be solid, not rattle, not tie up the reciever hitch, and not interfear with a Cat O 3 point if I decide to build one. Also I wanted it to look as much like one you would see on one of the older big IH tractors.

I took the standard 782 rear hitch attachment assembly, removed the hitch plate, drilled another hole and welded nuts behind the holes that didn't have them. Built a reciever hitch that bolts with three bolts to the original 782 assembly. I built it long enough to weld on the upper 3 point center hitch assemby if I decide to add it.

Then I built brackets to mount the cab uprights.

Here are the 1 x 2 upright posts connected with 4 each 1/4 inch bolts with lock nuts, this is what you need to remove to remove the cab.

For the shade part I used a 3 foot by 4 foot .032 gauge piece of alumnium. The hardest part was rolling the sides to get the look I wanted.

Mounting the alumnium top to the square tubing.

Final, out the door.

Happy camper.

 

[digger]

Bill G,
So you want somethin between this,

and this?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill, I don't know of any for installing pipe but here are some photos of a wire installer that Ed Stillions made.

Also Anthony Kiszka recently posted some info on one he made. See the Archive through May 29, 2004

 

[kweaver]

Well if you're gonna do RC's steering ... how 'bout my steering mods ?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Eddie, are these the photos you are looking for?

 

[digger]

Travis sent me these from a guy in Iowa named Bob,

 

[kweaver]

Rev -- this one would be a good one for the Custom folder <font size="+2">IF</font> the owner would ever finish it !

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a steering mod, aka: "Super Steer", that IIRC, Ken Updike suggested to Wyatt Compton. Here's Wyatt's post on the mod.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Wyatt Compton on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 07:04 pm:

Front axle upgrade:
This is the front axle for my project tractor. Right now it's 95% complete, just waiting on some misc. hardware to finish it off.

First off I started off with the axle out of an MTD Cub Cadet 1541. This is a very robust axle with 1" front spindles similar in construction to the old narrow frame front axle. Improvements over the narrow frame axle are (1) width, it's about 2 to 1.5 inches wider than the narrow frame piece (2) it has pressed-in bushings, once the holes are egged-out you don't replace the axle, you replace the bushings

(3) you'll never have to worry about that coiled spring pin working loose again, instead of that style connection it's got a fine spline with a 1/4" bolt to clamp it together and a hardened washer to retain it on top. It's not going anywhere for a long time! (4) it steers TIGHT, see the picture below, I'm still working on positioning the arm on the LH spindle to optimize turning radius but it's noticeably tighter. If my single-car garage was 4' wider I'd be able to do a U-turn in the garage.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The spindles are the same as those pictured here before (as in Dave Kirk's writeup) only mine are 5-bolt hubs. They're turned down 1/2" both sides to fit on the spindle. They've got a raised area of cast material on them that just lended themselves to be drilled and tapped for a grease fitting, so I did.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Here's where the grease hole comes out at an angle in between the bearing races.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Other than that, it's most of the same parts and as Dave Kirk did in his writeup.

Here's a couple more pictures showing installation on the tractor.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a custom Cub that Mike Schultz was working on. I sure would like to see more of this but Mike quit posting years ago and I've not been able to get ahold of him. If anyone out there has more info on this please let me know. TIA

Mike also made this 70 4x4.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a custom Cub Utility that was at Red Power Roundup 2003. Doog Martin took the photo.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Randy Macku made this custom articulated dump Cub.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's another one. James Bowen made this one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's another custom that James Bowen made.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a Gator style custom Cub that Warren Newton made. One photo illustrates a problem with two fixed rear axles.

 

[mtoney]

I need help making the custom fenders and tunnel cover/seat mount like this. I am planning on taking a 149 and building it to look similiar to this pic. Thanks Mike T

 

[kmcconaughey]

I think a copy of this belongs here:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dale Merkle (Dmerkle) on Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - 11:00 pm:

Vern B.
My Dad made his narrow front tractor and rear mount mower 2 years ago.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

All the steering is on left side(driver on seat).
Arm between steering linkage and shaft that goes to wheels<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Dad changed direction the drag link went. On a wide front end tractor the drag link moves towards the front of tractor when you turn left. Dad's narrow front tractor the drag link moves towards the rear of the tractor when you turn left. By setting steering up this way you have no clearance problems under the oil pan. Tractor was a 149.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[gcoleman]

Well, she may not be restored completely yet, but here goes, I built this butterfly hood for my 149. It is easy to access the engine, and other points of the tractor, on the right side (drivin it...) but the only downside is that to open the hood completely(originally, yes it does both...) you have to take off the muffler. Other than that, it is perty cool in my mind... only one I've ever seen.

 

[mmasheris]

982 TD project done except for a few custom decals this weekend.Hope to hook it on the sled at Little G show on Aug 4th.

 

[mmasheris]

 

[dylschmidt]

Hi. I just finished a long project.. I call it a 1650-4... I started with a 1650... both rear-ends are hydro. My goal was to keep ever component cub cadet..... it drives great.. I have a lot more pictures if anyone is interested