Archive through September 22, 2009

[kide]

Dennis:
OOOOOOOO yer gonna hear from all the "The factory painted 'em" types....
I agree with you, paint is an insulation....I'm old enough to remember the "how to's" in dirt bike magazines on "blackening" the jugs and head with a chemical treatment as the theory was bare black metal would radiate more heat than painted or bare silver. Our engineering student should be looking this up for us....

 

[jbollis]

MATT M
Sorry I keep mixing them up , The one I am working on is a 1211 ,which is a yellow model of the 782 ,but with a 12 horse kohler.The cub dealer near me doesen't have any parts books for the yellow models so I always have to use an xx82 to compare .It is really confusing when I need parts for my 1806 ( yellow model with 18 mag and 3spd with low range ). I really like mowing with the 1806 as it very reliable becuase it is simple ,and doesent have much that can go wrong with it.

The 1211 is nice to plow snow with . The hydro drive is nice for all the forward and backing up. And the hydro lift is real nice for the plow. One thing I did do is replace the lift rod with a length of chain, this way I can pile the snow pretty high and it doesent bend the rod. I would like to add dual hydrualics to it and a 54 inch blade though. Also with the hydro trans the 12 horse (even at 1/4 throttle )has more then enough power to push all the snow the 42 inch blade can push.

joe

 

[mgerecke]

I know this has been discussed before, but I can't find a good explanation as to how the PTO bearing and collar lock together. I know that you turn it counter-clockwise. But what does that do? I am working on removing my PTO, bearing, and pulley hub on my 149.
Getting off the PTO was a challenge because I had to drill out one of the set screws!! Now, I can't figure out how to remove the bearing and locking collar. I have the set screw loose, but how do you get it off since the bearing just turns. Maybe, I need to grad the collar and try to rotate it clockwise. The problem is this stuff is pretty rusty. PB Blaster has been my friend so far. Once I am able to get the bearing off, I am sure that the pulley hub is going to be impossible to remove. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!
Thanks,
Mark

 

[mreed]

Well here's my "look what followed me home" addtion for the year. Just got back from picking this up. Poor old girl sat in this spot for who knows how long.

With the help of a buddy and my 1250 we got her pulled out and on my trailer. I was nicely surprised with a 3 point hitch on the back and a new battery from the owner. As far as the price lets just say the guy was happy and I was very happy. Can't beat that.

 

[mstetar]

(Mreed)... good find, looks clean, i told ya they wernt rare!

Mark... those locking collars are a PIA, i get a punch and after loosening the set screw a little, use the punch to rotate it, after it turnes a little ,you can turn it back and forth till you find the lose spot... then its all about the 3-jaw puller!

 

[rwilke]

Paul Van B.,

Although I haven't done it, I'm under the impression that the balance gears CAN be removed out the oil pan opening without removing the crank. My C-clip pliers are too short to reach in that far, BUT - once I locate a longer pair, I'll give it a shot.

I'd suggest that you also try to remove them WITHOUT removing the crank or chiseling the gears in half. Be aware that the gears will also likely also have some shims with the C-clips...don't loose any inside!

Ryan Wilke

 

[sstanton]

Brendan, I made it home with about 45 minutes to spare! Lets just say I'm glad the staties werent out! Thanks a bunch for the QA-42! It's nice to meet guys from the forum when possible!
Got to work on the 123 today cleaned all the junk out of the carb and noticed that gas was coming out of one the head bolts! I checked them all and almost all of them were loose! Looks like I'm going to do and overhaul on the 12 horse! At least I can check the condition of the valves and head! Overall a good day to be cubbin!

 

[mreed]

I figured I'd hear that Matt. lol
Started raining right after I got it unloaded so I'll have to look her over closer tomarrow.

 

[cnimmo]

Got a question about my Original. When i am looking at the front of it . It looks like my frame is twisted. It leans towards the left hand side.But when i get down on the floor and look at the frame . it dont look bent or twisted.Could a bearing be out of the rear end that makes it look twisted. Or am i just guessing to much. Thanks

 

[mstetar]

cletus... are the front tires the same, my 100 looked like that, and there were two different tires on the front, one was just a little taller
good luck!

 

[tdaugherty]

I dont know the serial. The plate is missing, but my uncle had all the paperwork from when he bought it new. I got the original manual that says 1966, so thats the year. I say that it's a rare cadet, because most of the other cadets were produced for 4 years and then replaced with another new model. Like my 1967 124. It's production ended in 1971. The 123 was one year only.

 

[wshytle]

Mark G.- Once you get the lock collar and bearing off you will be able to better understand how they work together. The lock collar will only "mate" with the bearing in a limited position once they are both on the crank. This is caused by an offset in the lock collar. The lock collar has the set screw and nut but it also has a hole drilled just so deep to one side of the nut and screw. This hole is for a punch or like tool to be able to turn and "lock" the collar to the bearing by tapping producing an offset pressure. This pressure is maintained with the set screw and nut as a final lock. This may sound a little confusing but once you understand the theory you'll realize the simplicity.
Hopes this helps-Wayne

 

[jhokinson]

hey guys,

ive got 2 international #1 dump carts. what paint code is correct for them? i also cant remember if the was decal on the front. if there was, are they available today? if anyone has some pics of a restored on that would be awesome

 

[jbliler]

Those balance gears WILL come out without dismantaling the motor. Took those gears out of my NEW 14 hp and am glad they are gone. Even warrenty says to remove from nos short block.

 

[bbranstetter]

Dug down in the moldy sock and ordered a new wiring harness for the 122. Along with resurfaced clutch plates, anti rattle springs and I even sprung for a new drive shaft this time.

Shoot, just remembered that I need to order a set of brushes for the generator. Better call and see if I can add to my order in the morning. Glad I stopped by to kick it around with you guys, just made me remember what happened to the generator. Thanks!

 

[jott]

Dennis F and Kendell I, Before i got this pipe, when i was still in the thinking process of how to do it, I was told that. I actually have an exaust hanger laying around here somewhere, so i can straighten the pipe, bend the hanger and attach it somehow to the hood hinge bolt. anyway that was my thought. Any suggestions welcome

Tim D, they are not rare, just uncommon

 

[thenrie]

I'm looking at buying a snow blade for my 1650. The guy selling it indicates it is a blade for a wide-frame. Before I go lay down $175 for it, I thought I'd better ask, are there different models of snow plow blades for the wide frame? If so, what should I be looking for, for my 1650? What should I look for to make sure it is in decent, useable shape?

Tony
Stafford, Va

 

[mgonitzke]

Kendell-

I'll get on that sometime when I'm not really busy being an engineering student. I know bare metal conducts heat better, but I wonder how the heat transfer coefficient for iron oxide compares to paint...I'm curious now. It would be nice if you could plate the cooling fins with another metal, i.e. zinc

that would conduct heat well, but then again, the plating would probably crack because of the different thermal expansion rates for the two metals, and then the cracks in the plating would allow rust to form, and we're back to the same problem...

 

[theaton]

Josh O., Yea cubs sound great with a straight pipe(the neighbors love the sound too!). As Kendell and Dennis have stated. The possibility of your pipe breaking off at the block(or block itself) are more than just chance. If your pipe does'nt come in contact with your landscape, then the vibration/weight of the pipe puts loads of stress on the block. For me, I'll stick with the stock rumble of my cub. Even if it means the engine survives to be rebuilt many years from now.

 

[rwilke]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 09:04 pm:
Michael R., Don't part that 800...they only made 2,345 of them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Matt G.,
Where did you locate the production figure for the 800 Cub Cadet?

I see according to the information located in the FAQ ( http://cubfaq.com/ihbuilt.html ) the 800 Cubs were built between 10/74 to 12/75.
Did the production figure you mentioned come from the Hank Wills book, "CUB CADET, The First 45 Years"?

I'm guessing so, as apparently that book also has some production figures for other models as well:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Paul Bell (Pbell) on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 06:39 pm:
"...According to Hank Wills book,CUB CADET, The First 45 Years, there were 16,318 123's built..."<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

In comparing the 800 Cubs, produced between 10/74 - 12/75 (14 months) to the 123 Cubs, produced between 6/66 - 11/67 (17 months), it appears as though there were nearly 7-times more 123s made as there were 800s....interesting.

Ryan Wilke