Archive through September 22, 2006

[sblunier]

Jeff B.

Is the driveshaft binding or knocking????

See attached photo (ignore the red marks..they were for someone else)

Ther areas to be concerned about are in the green circles. Note how the u-joints highlighted in purple are aligned in the same plane? the splines in the center connecting both halves have been rotated at assembly so that the "forks" at the ends are both aligned. If U-joints are not assembled in this manner they will chatter and knock, especially as the angle of the driveline increases. I often see these joints mis-aligned, as it is easy for the slip joint to come appart when working on the thrower and people don't know that it matters how the go together.

Another area of concern is the general condition of the U-joints. Are the bearings tight? are the joints loose??? Are the keyways in the shafts worn?...or set screws on the nuckles over the keyways loose???

These are all common ailments of throwers, and any of them can cause a vibration.

 

[sblunier]

Joe D.

And if Charlie's trick won't get it, add a washer between the frame and the grill casting on the rear two holes. This will pitch the grill forward a bit more and open up the hood/wheel clearance.

 

[sblunier]

Matt,

I would....

1) true the faces on the clutch plates.
2) install new stock disk
3) install new main spring (you may consider a slightly heavier one, but don't go nuts as the throw out arm will need to be reinforced if the main spring tension gets too high.
4) install new T/O bearing and teaser spring.

5) reassemble, making sure to leave enough free travel to keep the T/O bearing from dragging.

Note: I have had good luck with a light polishing of the pilot bushing with a Dremmel and a sanding drum...just a quick "swoop" around the inside of the bushing. It keeps the driveline from coasting so much after the clutch is depressed at higher rpms...making it easier to shift without grinding.

I have driven the AL clutched tractors...they are not at all smooth and are either "all in" or "all out"...no feather ar all.

 

[jbrubaker]

Steve b
Charlie: THANK YOU LOL! My dad had the shaft come apart and i bet their not in the same plane, im gona run outside and check quick ill let u know if they r

 

[digger]

Yea! What Steve said. That might be good one for the gear jammers and the FAQ's

Thanks Steve.

 

[jbrubaker]

YES! there not at the same plane! my gear box might be saved after all lol

But the one is only off just a little but hopefully this is whats causing it to knock, monday ill get this fixed thxs again

 

[digger]

BTW,
Where's all the pics from the Fox Valley Plow Day that took place today in Brillion, WI.??????

Didn't anyone go? Have you heard anything Steve?

 

[bmcmeen]

Solder on Original creeper plugs -

Ya sure it's solder? Dan tacked a bolt onto mine so he could use a small slide hammer to get it off without damaging things. Perhaps the PO didn't clean up when he was done...

 

[rbedell]

Joseph D:

The hood on the 70 should be 29-5/16" at center. You also want to check if you have the correct Steering Wheel. That diameter is about 12-3/4". Seen a similar situation a while back where someone installed the wrong steering wheel that had a larger diameter causing the problem.

 

[bcook]

All but 2 of the Originals I have had suffered from the hood hitting the wheel. I thought one of the advantages of IH changing the frame and grill on the 70/100 series was it pretty much eliminated somebody from pushing the top of the grill back when they ran into something.....unless they really blasted into something

Joe D: To add to what Charlie and Roland said, you might also want to check and see if the tractors frame is bent at the grill attachment points.