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Archive through September 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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All right , I give up . It gives you an e- mail adress that says my e mail address is invalid . This is very aggrevating as I just need to order them . are they available through another sponser ?
 
The manual lift mechanism on my 125 is not working. I have another that I want to replace it with. I have all of the brackets loose, except it looks like I have to remove the foot rests. They will not come out so that I can drop the old mechanism!!Do I just need a bigger pry bar or is it some secret clip?
 
David G.
Yes you have to remove the foot rest, there's also 2 triangle type pieces mounted to the side of the frame that have to be removed to drop the rock shaft. It's lots easier to get to the handle mount that way.
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I posted an e-mail to Bob . Thanks , However I got the paint code off the website but it looks to yellow . I am using "crossfire" 3965 .. 53a white .. I believe my serial number to be 367 0 9
 
charlie: the four bolts that hold the plates together which the gear box is also on and used to adjust ur belt: should there be spacers in these bolts? and does your thrower shake when u run it on idle? i might have a bent auger shaft
 
or now i think the blasted gearbox might have a chipped gear cause it bumps and shakes when u first start it up then smooths out
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So I was cleaning up the creeper out of the original today and I noticed the tin caps on the bottom both have been soldered in the center.

I didn't have any gas to heat it up and take a look but any idea why you would have to solder them, or I guess I should say is there logical reason they both have holes in them?
 
Jeff B.
Sounds like your in for an over haul on that thrower. You might be better off clickin on the link above for Binder Books and get yourself a manual for that puppy.
The gear box is mounted solid, but the plate that it's attached to moves up and down to adjust the belt.
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Mattew K.
I've seen that before and I have no idea why they do that. Maybe to fill it with grease or oil from the bottom?
I know Kraig had one at one time, maybe when he gets here monday, he found out why.
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<font color="ff0000">And you think you guys have problems!</font>

Got the carb rebuild kit yesterday and also picked up the hydro fan
i needed. after installing the missing gaskets on the carb bowl I
found the float had a leak. after that was fixed I went to work on
replacing the fan, a lot easier than I feared.

then I got the cub running and was busy wizzing around the yard
trying to get things overheated, or shaken loose. tearing thru the
tall weeds and steep ditches slowed the cub not at all. after a bit
of boredom doing that, I put the mowing deck back on and decided to
see how tall the grass has got to be to stop a cub....

I had a side yard on my newly aquired property that had weeds 6ft
tall, with ground so uneven that I routinely got the rented
brushcutter hung up. perfect test ground for the cub.

into the weeds and out again, without the engine even pausing to
catch it's breath. bouncing in and out of ruts like some kind of
carnival ride.

until the steering wheel broke.

stuck out in the middle of a rut infested field, surrounded by 6 ft
tall weeds, and missing a steering wheel is not fun. dropped the cub
to idle and walked back to the garage for a vice grips to limp the
cub back to ***** repairs.

anyway, i got a chance to look over some issues and wanted to post
them and see if anyone has some insight.

my front steering is sloppy, about as bad as an old ford pickup
truck, much more noticeable when trying to steer with just a vice
grips. looks like a lot of connection points are worn. most of them
look like i can drill them out and install bushings. anything to
look out for?

my carb is not working right. i can advance the throttle slowly and
it is ok, but quick throttle changes cause it to sputter and almost
die. also, I cannot starve the engine, tightening up the needles as
far as i dare and still get some black smoke, which i remember is a
sign of rich fuel mixture. I have new neddles and seats in the carb
kit, but i was more worried about the bowl leaks i was getting.
leaking gas on a hot muffler is NOT fun, but no longer an issue.

I can get the deck off an on, but not elegantly, hopefully somone
can share some tips.

what to do about the steering wheel? not sure if it is a stock wheel
or a replacement, but the whole unit apears to be made out of
plastic which caused it's demise. I have a car steering wheel with a
metal hub, but is meant for a smaller splined hole. I could drill it
out and use it, but was wondering about alternatives. I am learnign
welding in my spare time, so maybe i could weld up
somethign "interesting"

Is there a guard for a hydrostatic fan? I just installed mine and am
seeing wear and tear, must be them 6 ft weeds.

also, what is supposed to hold the steering wheel shaft in place?
mine appears to have nothing holding it in place, just gravity.

the wiring for my headlights is missing. I assume I can just tap
into the keyswitch anywhere that I find 12 volts. someone mentioned
he replaced hist spots with floods, any suggestions? I just picked
up a ge 4411 for mine (one was missing a teminal post)

a lot of other points, but most of them I have figgured out using
comon sense, suct as ajusting the gearshift so neutral is actually
in neutral, sharpening blades, and finding replacement bolts and
such.

oh the plus side, WOW, hydrostatics seem unstoppable, climbing
ditches and ruts that I figgured i'd need a full size tractor to
plow over. I cant wait to weld up a cultivator or some other earth
truning equipment and see how it handles it.
 
I decided to stop and visit with a former coworker/friend that this spring I traded a nice 70 that was all original and just needed the engine overhauled if he would paint the 127 for me. I expressedly informed him to let me know if he changed his mind about fixing it up and to NOT JUNK or do anything stupid with it...... I could cry... his wife said it was in their way so he hauled it to the salvage yard. Bummed out right now just doesn't sum as to how I feel.

Guess it is my fault for trying to trade for the paint job. He said that he really wanted the tractor though.
 
John L.
I have the standard 16x650x8 tires on the front of that 682. I am going to fill the rear ones with fluid and lower the pressure somewhere below the current 10 PSI. they probably won't stand up quite so much that way.
 
Charlie P. Yup. Posted about the kitties across the street. Ya caught me. They are getting friendlier. I know they would not have scrapped out that 70. Now I have reservations about getting rid of the "parts" 100 that is taking up space in the garage. Talk about paranoia. Oh well, tomorrow is another day... can't save them all.
 
Ya know Marlin!
Old pallets and a good tarp will work just fine for storing parts tractors when inside storage space gets tight, BTDT!
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The hood on my 70 is rolled up a little to clear the steering wheel (previous owner). I was thinking that it might be the wrong hood. Can someone please tell me the correct length of a hood for a 70. Or is there a way to adjust the hood so that it will clear the wheel..
Thanks in advance...Joe
 
I'm trying to get my 128 ready for plow day. I just can't find the time to do anything anymore, I'm so busy all the time. I thought this tractor wouldn't need much to get it ready to plow, until I took off the gas tank to wire the headlights and saw the clutch...

Anyway, my friction disc has a chunk missing. While I'm in there fixing that and installing the creeper I'm considering upgrading some parts, but I'd like some other opinions on some things I'm considering doing.

The tractor will be used for plowing, tilling, pushing snow and other rear mounted attachments and pulling a dump cart. No mowing. So:

1. I've often read about how an aluminum friction disc grips better than the stock one... should I stick with the stock one or make an aluminum one?

2. While I'm in here, should I replace the main clutch spring, as in replace with new original tension spring, put in a stronger one, or just leave the old one in there?

Thanks!
 
Joe D.
No 70's here, BUT!
Loosen the bolts holding the front grill on and slide it forward, check hood clearance, tighten bolts and enjoy a hood that opens and closes without pinching your fingers!
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