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Archive through September 19, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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fsnerd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
282
displayname
frank snerd
"No, the clutch is engaged when the center button is not depressed. That way, no wear is occurring when the clutch is in use. The clutch is disengaged by depressing the center button."

so if you remove the PTO linkage, your mower deck would be always on, no way to shut it off?
I thought it would be always off.
 
JERRY - WOW, That's a lot of blow-by.

Funny but true story. SON was helping a group of guys build a 358 CID 351 Windsor V-8 for a Mustang. Some alcohol was involved. Son was installing the rings, spacing the end gaps, hand-pressing the wrist pins in and installing the keepers and handing them to someone else to install into the block on the engine stand. Somehow ONE of the other guys decided to remove the rings from one piston and set them aside out of the way and the piston got installed without ANY rings on that one piston and no one found the rings until after the engine was installed & run in the car. The engine still ran O-K, smoked just a bit just like most freshly rebuilt engines. Think the one cyl. without rings still made 85-90 PSI of compression warm. The others were in the 140-150 range.

What I'm getting at here is, I don't think you would have that much blowby on a K321 if there were no rings on the piston at all.

I'd pull the engine, remove the pan, flywheel, blower backplate, piston & rod, crankshaft, bearings & seals, of course the carb & muffler.

Have a good small engine or automotive engine machine shop lightly hone the bore to restablish the proper cross hatch, they can also measure the bore for wear, out-of-round, taper, etc. then install new rings on the existing piston, which also should be fine. With only 200 hours the bore should be fine then. Also inspect the piston & used rings. There might be a broken ring or two.

The conn. rod & rod journal should be O-K, but measure or have the mach. shop measure to make sure. The new Kohler rods use a "Posi-Loc" rod bolt, they're supposed to NOT be reusable, like torque-to-yield bolts. I don't know if a Kohler parts dealer can even get just new bolts & nuts. Maybe one of the sponsors above could get you a pair. Then reassemble the engine with a whole new gasket & seal kit. Worst case you could buy a pair of ARP rod bolts of the correct size & length! I forget the reason why but I had to remove the wrist pin keepers on one of the engines I rebuilt several years ago, think it was the K181 on the lawn vac and I had to "Special Order" the new keepers which the manual also say are "Single Use items", remove and dispose of ONLY. My dealer said they had NEVER had anyone ever just buy new wrist pin keepers EVER before. I always dislike it when parts people tell me that! Means it normally costs more, I have to wait longer, and that everyone else is NOT following the manual.

I think it was right around the time you got that short block that Kohler stopped supplying any kind of K-series assembled engines at all.
 
Thanks Charlie for the manual. The rest of the posts didn't provide much info. I'm sorry to be such a bother.
 
149 refurb.

Got a lot of parts cleaned with a pressure washer and some biodegradable stuff.

213441.jpg


Rick A. I take lots of pictures and label and bag my parts. If I didn't do that I would go crazy at my age.......LOL. CRS is alive and well here. Grin.

The front axle has the typical pulley grooves.
I"ll take care of them.



213442.jpg


I think the QA bail needs some help.

213443.jpg
 
Jerry B,I am finaly gonna reserwrect this old 70 that you gave me. From Moscow Idaho

213446.jpg
 
I have a 147. On drivers right side, transmission cover. There is a lever about 3" long. I beieve, something to do with the hydro.
What is this ? I would think it should move !!
Gary
 
Rick,Whata know, it is.Id love to know how those decals ended up on it they look like 20years old.It had no drive line or clutch or air cleaner Ive slowly collected that stuf and am getting started onit The engine just needs valves and guides and rings
The frame aint cracked bad.Its my first original. The only one Ive ever seen up here. Most of them went east with Jerry .
 
Gary,
Leave it hang. When you lift it up it releases the valves in the hydro allowing you to move the tractor without it running. However, don't move it more than a few yards or you could damage the hydro.
 
What Matt said, LOL
I won't tell the story about my 1450 2 miles from home and chain and the Tahoe!
clappy.gif


Or the time at PD when I blew a head gasket, a strap and Travis on a 4 wheeler and him in a hurry to go eat. And my a$$ bouncing up and down headed back to the parking area.
biggrin.gif
 
Gary, Just go slow, lift up the rear wheels if you can. If this thing has set for a while mabey you shouldn't use that realese. It pushes down on pins at the top of the valves. if they ain't been used they can stick down, getting them back up can be a pain.
 
Thanks All
It has sat for 1yr at my house. Just forced it on and off trailer before that. Don't know how long it sat before that. Can't lift rear end, and front tire ripped up. Can use 128 with 1st.and creeper speed to pull it. Any other suggestions appreciated.
Gary
 
Hello and greetings...
It's been a few years since I posted here, but I'm just starting the process of getting one of my 122's back into running condition, and could use some help. A few years ago, I watched helplessly as a 10" walnut branch cracked off and fell 20' right onto the seat of a 122 that was almost completely restored. Ouch. I put that machine away, unable to look at it, and now I'm back at it. I found a seat pan, but I need a recommendation on someone to cover it. Any leads? Also, I'll probably end up painting, HVLP, so any help on where to get paint would be appreciated.

I'll post pix this week.

Thanks
 
Wayne,,, Have fun with that one! It was a rope start in it's first life. Would be a chore to put it back that way. Remember it well, I had three with a #8000 series serial number. Don't know anything about the engine except it turned over too easy. Figured that the rod HAD to be broke. Are the wires still there behind the flywheel?
 
Dan-

If you have an automotive paint store nearby, you can get decent-quality paint and great advice for gun settings, mix ratios, etc. The cross-reference numbers are in the FAQs.
 

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