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That yellowish crud buildup is puzzling me ..anybody ever seen that before,(other than mud wasp) it looks very crusty...At any rate a quick fix on valve seats..open valve and a spin around with wire wheel dremel will get most the crud off seat and valve
Im not sure what it was - seemed like crusted up dirt. The machine has been sitting for who knows how long before I bought it.

The blow by Im referring to seems like through the head gasket, near the exhaust port.

You can seen the pattern change of the gasket around that area.
 
David, why not spring for a new gasket clean all deposits off.screw it down snug and try it ? not much to lose for the cost and effort...
I agree.

Its already on order. Im also gonna lap the valves and adjust the tappet clearance.

The intake has no tappet clearance. Have to trim down the valve stem at least .006. Should be able to just do that with sand paper.

We will see what happens.
 
That yellowish crud buildup is puzzling me ..anybody ever seen that before,(other than mud wasp) it looks very crusty...At any rate a quick fix on valve seats..open valve and a spin around with wire wheel dremel will get most the crud off seat and valve
That yellow looking material is sulfur compound starting to show can come from a condensation from in side a tank not kept full and fresh fuel, needs leaned up a trick I learned in the gas compression engines that iron oxide and sulfur is an engine killer in so many ways, clean up all the carbon with a soft small brush and scrap of carefully and clean the ring lands out with air put on a new gasket and torque carefully and check valve movement first and can wet check each valve with fuel dropped in around each in down position the compression test dry the with a few drops of oil will tell you if it’s the rings or valves ???? Ol Cat man/CTO SAII 🤠
 
That yellow looking material is sulfur compound starting to show can come from a condensation from in side a tank not kept full and fresh fuel, needs leaned up a trick I learned in the gas compression engines that iron oxide and sulfur is an engine killer in so many ways, clean up all the carbon with a soft small brush and scrap of carefully and clean the ring lands out with air put on a new gasket and torque carefully and check valve movement first and can wet check each valve with fuel dropped in around each in down position the compression test dry the with a few drops of oil will tell you if it’s the rings or valves ???? Ol Cat man/CTO SAII 🤠
A other way is if it’s running you can use a small hose and take a quart of trans (dextron) fluid and have the engine pull it through the carb from suction and the dextron will compress and clean out all the carbon very well, never use water or anything else it will destroy the piston and valves !!!!
 
A other way is if it’s running you can use a small hose and take a quart of trans (dextron) fluid and have the engine pull it through the carb from suction and the dextron will compress and clean out all the carbon very well, never use water or anything else it will destroy the piston and valves !!!!
Will smoke like Casey Jones’s last train ride to hell and back and kills mosquitoes real good but does the job !!!!!
 
A other way is if it’s running you can use a small hose and take a quart of trans (dextron) fluid and have the engine pull it through the carb from suction and the dextron will compress and clean out all the carbon very well, never use water or anything else it will destroy the piston and valves !!!!
Mark: i’ve got a mid-90’s 6-hp Briggs&Stratton with a valve that occasionally sticks, I suspect carbon deposits.
Am running Sea-Foam in the fuel and tapping the head bolts to try to clear it.

You ever tried your ATF dextron trick for something like that?

(it is on my prized Snapper walk-behind)
 
Just found a local machine shop that can bore the cylinder. Think I’ll go that route.

Gonna tear down the rest of the way and make sure nothing else is too messed up.

Then go from there.
 
David, glad to hear that..We just got to save what we can...Even" old iron" parts are getting pricey...the pervading throw away mentality doesn't work for me...per ex. a $ 2000 mower is worth about $40. at your local scrap yard...Not everything is worth saving because of cheap mfg called "planned obselessance"...
 
Mark: i’ve got a mid-90’s 6-hp Briggs&Stratton with a valve that occasionally sticks, I suspect carbon deposits.
Am running Sea-Foam in the fuel and tapping the head bolts to try to clear it.

You ever tried your ATF dextron trick for something like that?

(it is on my prized Snapper walk-behind)
The sea foam is not good ever tear down a carb with the residue in it carb cleaner will not remove it, the trans fluid helps clean it out the other way is to Intervenously inject chem-Tool into the carb while running and slowly and it really cleans out the carbon used it too on the small air compressors on the company trucks and gas compressors in the field some old 1197 6 cylinders we would run two qts through the intake to clean it up run valves and new plugs then changed the oil in each one ever 35 days on average !!!!!
 
Is this a centrifugal clutch?

Is it supposed to be there? And was this one mounted backwards, and welded to make a fixed pulley?

Mounted to the same shaft as the pulley for the starter generator.

Was attached to a goofy belt system that ultimately drove the mower deck.
 

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David, it sure looks like it has been welded but that would mean the deck belt would drive all the time.I would have thought that it had an elec. clutch..

I believe the deck belt did run all the time. It definitely did on this machine. There are many “make work” type repairs and alterations on the machine.

Ive heard on the correct mower decks for this machine, the original PTO was on the deck, and you would step on it to engage.
 
Is this a centrifugal clutch?

Is it supposed to be there? And was this one mounted backwards, and welded to make a fixed pulley?

Mounted to the same shaft as the pulley for the starter generator.

Was attached to a goofy belt system that ultimately drove the mower deck.
That is a spring rpm clutch it engages as the engine speeds up like on a small go cart or minibike !!! It’s been welded up to use the pulley and probably had a spring kick in pulley to engage it when needed !!! That’s my guess !!!!
 
The Original did not have a mechanical clutch on the engine, but rather a solid pulley. Deck was engaged/disengaged by use of a sliding center pulley attached to a small foot pedal on top of the deck. It would appear as though someone replaced the factory drive pulley with a welded solid clutch pulley.
 
Did not mix gas I used a hose stuck into a full qt of dextron and started the engine and let it inhale the liquid into the carb and it went down the intake through a small hose at the carburetor where the air filter had been, till a had run a full qt into it and it had cleared out to no more smoke out the exhaust, you have to remove the tube if it starts to over feed the liquid and kill the hi RPM !!!!
 

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