Archive through September 18, 2011

[kmcconaughey]

John B., WELCOME!

You'll get all sorts of answers to the question of "Which Cub to get?" I'm partial to the narrow frame models, especially the 125. But I'll recommend the wide frame model 149. Now which deck fits which tractor isn't a real easy question to answer as the sub-frame can be mixed and matched somewhat which can blur the answer. As a quick and dirty, but not entirely correct answer, 36", 42" and 48" decks fit narrow frame Cub Cadets, and 44" and 50" decks fit wide frame Cub Cadets. Now with the proper sub-frame a 36" or 42" deck can fit the wide frame Cub Cadets. If you're not sure which are narrow frame and which are wide frame Cub Cadets let us know and we'll let you know.

 

[digger]

Denny,
Yea, that's the one! LOL
I knew it started with a B.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - I KNEW you'd say that! I know I would have!

JOHN B. - Kraig gives a good suggestion. I guess a question for YOU is what do you plan to do with this CC? If it's a "worker" I'd suggest any 10 HP or larger tractor from the 100 on up. Hydro or gear drive would be your preference. I prefer gear drives but mow with a hydro.

If you want to mow, run a roto-tiller or snow blower more HP is always nice, 14 HP or more I would suggest.

For working tractors I would stay away from the small 7 & 8 HP models, and the Quiet-Line tractors, 1000/1200/1250/1450/1650. Many people really like the Q/L's but they have many differences from all other CC's, the rubber mounted engine, first electric PTO clutch, bendix style starter, not the starter/generator used on all older CC's. And many of them have come up missing their side panels over the years. Several of them do offer hydraulic lift & aux. remote outlets which is nice for a working tractor. They just have different issues than almost all other CC's.

If you want a parade tractor to fix up then about any old IH CC would do. Many like the Original '61/'63 CC's but they had a drive belt for the tranny, slightly weaker frames, the steel front portion would crack where it bolted to the cast rearend.

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

You mentioned 36" as a deck size twice. Didn't you mean 38"? It is Monday.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, yes it should have been 38".

I was thinking snow throwers, it is getting to be that time of year.

 

[ccarney]

Charlie -

On yer ND haul, did I see a 44/50 deck under the front 102? If so, how good of a job did they do?

 

[digger]

Craig C.
Yes you did.
I'll take some pics later.
Part of it looks nasty, but it works. LOL

 

[digger]

Denny,
CRS is a real pain sometimes!

 

[mpatterson]

Posted this in the Restoration section, but was suggested I post this up here as well? Forgive me if its in the wrong spot.

This is an IH build 782:

I figured since the weather is starting to cool off and the nasty white stuff will be upon us soon, I should start doing some homework. Have had frost here the past two nights, poor garden has taken a beating to say the least.

If all goes well, this is going to be one of my winter projects and hopefully finished for spring planting in the garden. I was fortunate to pick up an IH built 782 about 4 or 5 months ago with a series II engine in it. Came with a rough 42" deck, 2 sets of wheel weights and quite a few scratches and some dents in the sheet metal. The tires on the rear look original and are in pretty decent shape, some normal cracking which I chock up to being a regular thing. Front tires are either very much original OR someone has figured out how to do break stands with them, cause they are bald as a baby's @$$! Also had 4 decent hub caps that cleaned up fairly good with some Mother's Chrome & Mag polish. I just couldn't wait until winter to see how they cleaned up.

Question I have....

I am looking for input/opinons on what ALL should be done if I was to do a front to back restoration of this tractor properly. YES, I am going to paint it the correct IH red since there is just way too many scratches on it not to do it properly. Don't worry - the Correct Police can not say anything, my 982 is still original

I brought home a parts tractor the other day to go along with this 782 - it too is also an IH built tractor. So I now have the correct grill emblem as well as a new hood bird.

So what are the normal things that "should" or "need" to be replaced? Things like rag joints, gaskets, bearings, seals, etc. I am thinking if I have the tractor stripped, it should be done. But what things can you get away with NOT replacing since it will not make a difference or it isn't worth the money? Last thing I want to do is have everything stripped down and fixed up and then have a stupid $1.25 gasket or seal crap out on me!

What is the best way to strip down the frame, sheet metal, rims, etc ..... sand blaster, wire wheel, emery clothe...?

How is the best way to clean the plastic dash without removing the markings on it - just pain soap and a scrub brush?

Where is the best place to buy tie rod ends - local Cub dealer or a sight sponsor?

I eventually plan on putting on some Firestone 23 degree ags. My understaning Miller Tire has now put the 24" into production again thanks to their own personal effort in keeping these on the market. Is this true? If so, has anyone purchased any from them? You like them? Are they worth the $$$ ?

Any input you have to share would be great. Thank you in advance.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - I've heard of that "CRS" you mention but I forget what it stands for....

MIKE P. - Well, depending on how good of shape the engine is in, I'd disassemble and clean everything, and if the rag joints are bad replace them, AND the cork gasket between the rearend & hydro. And it's not hard to replace the oil seals in the ends of the rear axles. New Hy-Tran & filter, and maybe repair the trunnion if it's worn.

For old paint removal on sheet metal Scotch makes a special abrasive pad about five inches in diameter and an inch wide that chucks into an electric drill, it's kinda like a Scotch-Brite pad only much more coarse, doesn't load up and removes paint fast. Sand blasting sheet metal can do serious damage due to localized heat from the blasting material. I'd sand or use a chemical stripper. There's discussions in the Machine Shop about using Electrolysis for paint removal too.

The Firestone 23 degree tires Miller sells now are 23-10.50X12's, couple guys here have them and they're a GREAT tire. Last I heard Miller will have the 26-12.00X12's for SGT's(Your 982?) sometime this fall. Not sure if the 23-8.50X12's are going to be made again but I sure hope so. I need a pair for the 70 when it becomes a 100!

Without seeing the tractor it's tough to say what all could or should be done to it.

 

[kfreeman]

Dennis,

I <font color="ff0000"><blink>C</blink></font>an't <font color="ff0000"><blink>R</blink></font>emember <font color="ff0000"><blink>S</blink></font> . . . either

 

[jbrewer]

Thanks for the welcome. I guess I knew that was a dumb question. I've got a largish lawn and am looking for one to actually use for mowing and general household use (hauling, thatching, etc). I'm a decent mechanic and refuse to buy more MTD throwaway items. Besides there's pride in ownership of nice machinery. I want a Harvester made unit of course.

Anyway, since mine is to be a user and I'm not afraid to get dirty working on it I was mostly looking for advice on any particular models to stay away from due to weaknesses in the engines and or transmissions. I don't want a belt drive unit, but fortunately those seem unusual.

Thanks for any tips
John

 

[digger]

John B.
The only thing you have to decide is how big of a motor you want and if you want a gear drive or HYDRO,HYDRO,HYDRO,HYDRO!!!!!!!!

 

[kfreeman]

John Brewer,

Welcome. Yeah, your question is kinda like "which of your kids do you like better?" on this site.

I am not an expert and only have experience with one Cub but some things I think I understand from reading this site.

Almost all of the Cubs are shaft drive. All use a rear end that was built for big tractors and is never a problem. This cast iron rear end is used by all of the "pullers" because it can take the abuse.

The gear drives are solid (but you may have to rebuild the clutch sometime), and the hydrostatic transmissions are stout (but you might have to repair leaks or a worn trunion). The engines are Kohler cast iron blocks. They last and can be overhauled. But the expense is baffling to me. One engine that has some negatives is the KT-17 Series I, that was used in the early 582, 682, 782's. It has oil splash lubrication and had problems if used on hillsides.

The early tractors, 7, 8, and 10 HP were "narrow frames" while later 10, 12, 14, and 16 HP tractors are "wide frames". The attachments are not directly interchangeable. It seems that I see more attachments for sale for the wide frames, but that may not be true where you are.

I like my later model, wide frame, hydrostatic. But some members think that Quiet Lines have issues, primarily with the engine mounting system.

I have not heard of any "weak" IH cubs that you should avoid. Choose narrow or wide frame, gear or hydrostatic drive. Try to find one in decent condition, and be prepared to learn and repair as necessary.

 

[jbrewer]

Thanks and you're right, it IS like asking that!

I've been reading quite a lot for some weeks (and curious for some time before that, but since it's getting time to replace my Big Box unit, I'm getting more serious. I'm in NC and there's not a huge amount of these for sale , but more than I'd think for a 30+ year old GT.

I'd love to find a hydro trans unit but they're even less often available... but I'll keep looking and learning. It would be a great winter project to work on and I enjoy wrenching and restoring older stuff .

Thanks and I hope I don't wear out my welcome with questions.

John

 

[mpatterson]

As Dennis mention....hard to tell without seeing the tractor, so lets see if I can make these work?

 

[mpatterson]

 

[mpatterson]

 

[mpatterson]

 

[mpatterson]