Archive through September 17, 2014

[dfrisk]

NIC - Yes, I know all about JIT, I was doing JIT even before the name JIT was hung on it. I had parts at FARMALL in 1979 I was turning over 350 time a YEAR... which means I had about a half a day's supply on hand at any time on any day.

But like my Boss's always told me... "You'll never get in trouble for having a couple extra parts, but if I need one and you haven't got it.... Your azz is grass!"

Last place I worked I turned inventory around 18-19 times a year, but our quoted lead-time on new orders was 3 to 5 DAYS, plus my service parts were my production parts too. So I was having suppliers ship parts that I didn't even have customer orders for yet. At that place, all my suppliers sat on the inventory so I didn't have to. Which is typical of the automotive industry too. And there we not only got in trouble for not having enough, we got in trouble for having a few too many.

If I just spent $70,000 for a brand new truck and the shop couldn't get a part for it... they could keep my truck. And of course, I'd be driving THEIR loaner.

If you want to drive a Mini-MX Magnum to mow your lawn, here ya' go! Case/IH did make the FARMALL DX18. Should be a few of them on the used market by now. I think they were produced in 2007 only. http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/Case_IH_DX18E_Farmall

 

[jstertz]

Thanks Guys for the help on the Hydraulic lift for my 100. I'm about half way through the install. I have been taking time to paint parts, replace pieces that seem suspect, etc. However, since I've never owned one of these before, I have a question. The PO made a modification to the actuator rod that connects the lift handle to the arm that is attached directly to the pump. That whole handle is really sloppy. Is that typical on a well used unit? The handle moves side to side probably three or four inches. I'd like to tighten that all up but I don't want to do something that impedes function. Have any of you fabricated that little connector rod?

Right now, I'm not as worried about originality on "The Mule" as I am about durability and functionality. Any advice would be much appreciated, as would pics where applicable...

 

[bbranstetter]

I already have a motor with the plate and with an oil filter kit installed and I don't have any problems with it to speak of. My question is would you think there would be any benefit from adding a heat exchanger to the engine oil circuit?

My thought was if I were to try it I would install it near the intake screen side. Its not as though the tractor works that hard but it would seem as though a little bit of oil cooling might help, not saying that I'm going to do it but was just floating the idea to see if any one else has tried it on there cub.

 

[jsosbe]

Hi guys, wanting to put a tiller on my original... A..is it possible?..B if so how does the engagement work?... C. What model(s) of tillers are compatible? Any help would be great. Thanks guys

 

[dkirk]

Dennis -

This was a test I contemplated doing but never did. Reason was that I'd have to make up a special drain plug with a thermocouple installed, then drain the oil in order to install, then remove abd drain oil again after test was complete. Not a bad job, but other things were pressing at the time.

Most of my experience with oil temps in small, air-cooled engines were gleaned during my tenure with Tecumseh Products Corp. It was not uncommon to see oil temperatures run over 300 deg F in the all aluminum engines on a hot day. Cast iron block engines would actually run cooler oil temps due to lower conductivity of cast iron, the heat path being from cylinder to oil sump. These high operating temperatures are what causes the oil to oxidize and darken, and viscosity to rapidly increase. The 25 hour oil change requirement is the best preventative for preventing lubrication-related failures. Running a full synthetic can easily double the change time interval.

 

[nbextermueller]

I would say, an oil cooler is a great idea for summer work. Not so good for winter work.

I say go for it. And let us now how it works. I think cooler are supposed to be put after a filter and before the return to the engine. Longevity will be your only sign that it's working.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - Thanks for getting back to us on the oil temps. That golf tee stuck in the "oil" sure puts things into perspective.

 

[sblunier]

IMHO, run 10W-30 full synthetic, per Dave's recommendation and change at 25-30 hours........skip the cooler, unless in an air flow it won't be much help and the area behind the flywheel on a 782 gets pretty crowded and "dangerous" (with all of the rotating parts).

 

[nbextermueller]

Now you did it Brian! You started the age old oil debate... There are honestly no winners in this debate.

 

[jstertz]

Brian---You did it now

So...

who's next???