Dennis, this was a new from Kohlor engine. Bought it in winter of 05-06. Am putting 50-55 hours on it a year mowing only. I use my CCO for snow and running around packing kids. This engine only has just over 200 hours. Not too happy for $1100!
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Archive through September 16, 2010
- Thread starter lpalma
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NORM B. - Many people here use a tool called a "Vibra-tach" sold by Briggs & Stratton which is much cheaper than the photo type hand held tachs, but not as useful for other uses.
JERRY B. - WOW, with only 200 hours I wouldn't be happy either. I'd perform the crankase vacuum test with the U-tube manometer shown in the Kohler manual. And if the results aren't good I would try just the quick re-hone and install new rings. With so few hours the crank & rod have to be in good shape.
Not sure how much difference it makes but I did follow Kohler's break-in proceedure on my K321, used non-detergent 30W oil for the first hour of run time, changed oil, then ran for 4-5 more hours, then ran 15W-40 Rotella T for 10 hours, then I think I ran another change of 15W-40 for twenty hours. Then switched to Rotella SB 5W-40 and run it for 35-40 hours before chainging. I have about 150 hours on that engine and it just stopped using a bit of oil in the last 15-20 operating hours.
JERRY B. - WOW, with only 200 hours I wouldn't be happy either. I'd perform the crankase vacuum test with the U-tube manometer shown in the Kohler manual. And if the results aren't good I would try just the quick re-hone and install new rings. With so few hours the crank & rod have to be in good shape.
Not sure how much difference it makes but I did follow Kohler's break-in proceedure on my K321, used non-detergent 30W oil for the first hour of run time, changed oil, then ran for 4-5 more hours, then ran 15W-40 Rotella T for 10 hours, then I think I ran another change of 15W-40 for twenty hours. Then switched to Rotella SB 5W-40 and run it for 35-40 hours before chainging. I have about 150 hours on that engine and it just stopped using a bit of oil in the last 15-20 operating hours.
Dennis there is no crankcase vacuum. The dipstick is being pushed out of the cam cover!Oil runs down the side of the engine fast enough that is doesn't collect much dirt,,,, self cleaning! Am having to be very careful about keeping enough oil in it. Engine was a short block with new head. Oil has seen several changes. Still holds nice clean color. As fast as I am losing it i have only changed it once this season.The oil is cheap,,, the engine was not!
129 front PTO clutch removal. manual, no brake.
service manual says "...align the set screw holes with the notches in the crankshaft pulley."
my entire clutch turns with the crankshaft. clutch is frozen, I assume. I cant align the holes.
any ideas on plan B?
I am thinking of dissembling the clutch on the tractor and take it off a piece at a time.
service manual says "...align the set screw holes with the notches in the crankshaft pulley."
my entire clutch turns with the crankshaft. clutch is frozen, I assume. I cant align the holes.
any ideas on plan B?
I am thinking of dissembling the clutch on the tractor and take it off a piece at a time.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank-
You can't take it apart on the tractor, as there are nuts on the 3 bolts holding it together behind the clutch. I would soak the pressure plate area in PB blaster and try to break it loose. Worst case scenario,you might have to break off all the tabs on the disc so you can turn it.
You can't take it apart on the tractor, as there are nuts on the 3 bolts holding it together behind the clutch. I would soak the pressure plate area in PB blaster and try to break it loose. Worst case scenario,you might have to break off all the tabs on the disc so you can turn it.
Donald Tanner (Dtanner) is my new hero.
thanks.
I am sure I will be back with more stupid questions before I am done.
but, in my own defense, shouldn't the clutch be free spinning when the button is not pressed? if the linkage is removed, shouldn't the clutch be free?
thanks.
I am sure I will be back with more stupid questions before I am done.
but, in my own defense, shouldn't the clutch be free spinning when the button is not pressed? if the linkage is removed, shouldn't the clutch be free?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank-
No, the clutch is engaged when the center button is not depressed. That way, no wear is occurring when the clutch is in use. The clutch is disengaged by depressing the center button.
No, the clutch is engaged when the center button is not depressed. That way, no wear is occurring when the clutch is in use. The clutch is disengaged by depressing the center button.
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