lpalma
Well-known member
Kendall,
No they will not,BUT! they will work on #6
No they will not,BUT! they will work on #6
-
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Archive through September 16, 2010
- Thread starter lpalma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
JERRY B. - re your K321 cyl. bore. If the bore is that shiny and you can't see any cross hatching marks anymore then you probably need to at least hone the bore and install new rings.
When cylinders are honed with abrasive stones the hone is cycled up & down as it turns so there are crossed lines radially around the bore. They are supposed to retain oil to improve the ring seal and lube the piston rings and prevent the piston from scuffing. The marks should be at about a 20 to 30 degree angle to each other.
There should be a ridge on the top of the cyl. bore if it's worn that bad.
As the bore wears, it wears out-of-round and tapers. The rings have to move in & out of the ring grooves on the piston to seal properly which actually wears the grooves in the piston. So new rings are not a long term fix. Also depending on how much the bore is worn you may need over-size rings and file fit the end gaps. I'm not sure if Kohler or Stens makes O/S ring sets anymore. If your piston didn't have "010", or "020" on the top you have the stock size bore/piston, so maybe will need the next size bigger rings.
When I rebuilt the old K241 I had in my 72 for years the machine shop "KNURLED" the thrust faces of the piston, which I also had to file-fit to the bore. The knurling raised high spots on the piston so it didn't wobble and slap around in the bore, the low spots of the knurling also held more oil. That engine ran well for 1400 long hard hours of use/almost abuse! I used stock size rings and the end gap was right at the max. limit according to the Kohler manual.
Complete engine disassembly would be required even for installing rings & honing. The honing operation uses a coolant/lubricant, most shops use Kerosene or diesel fuel and it's MESSY. All the honing swarf (metal & used abrasive grit) is rinsed down thru the crankcase of the engine. And it all has to be cleaned out WELL before reassembly.
The other alternative is a complete rebuild. New piston/rings/wrist pin& keepers/conn rod, bore & hone the bore to the next O/S, maybe grind the rod journal U/S, all new gaskets & seals, spark plug, points, condensor, carb rebuild, points pushrod.
Hope that helps. I will say that the K321 I rebuilt several years ago does have more blowby than the K241 it replaced. In a single cylinder engine the piston moving up & down changes the volume INSIDE the crankcase with every stroke of the piston. The reed valve on the breather cover is supposed to hold a slight vacuum inside the crankcase, but there's machined holes from the valve spring chamber INTO the cyl. bore, and towards the cam drive gears to splash oil and circulate air thru the crankcase. So getting little or NO blowby is not possible.
The best test of Kohler K-series engine condition I've found is "oil consumption". If it starts burning or really leaking oil it's tired. The "U-tube manometer test" shown in the Kohler manual is also a good test of engine condition.
When cylinders are honed with abrasive stones the hone is cycled up & down as it turns so there are crossed lines radially around the bore. They are supposed to retain oil to improve the ring seal and lube the piston rings and prevent the piston from scuffing. The marks should be at about a 20 to 30 degree angle to each other.
There should be a ridge on the top of the cyl. bore if it's worn that bad.
As the bore wears, it wears out-of-round and tapers. The rings have to move in & out of the ring grooves on the piston to seal properly which actually wears the grooves in the piston. So new rings are not a long term fix. Also depending on how much the bore is worn you may need over-size rings and file fit the end gaps. I'm not sure if Kohler or Stens makes O/S ring sets anymore. If your piston didn't have "010", or "020" on the top you have the stock size bore/piston, so maybe will need the next size bigger rings.
When I rebuilt the old K241 I had in my 72 for years the machine shop "KNURLED" the thrust faces of the piston, which I also had to file-fit to the bore. The knurling raised high spots on the piston so it didn't wobble and slap around in the bore, the low spots of the knurling also held more oil. That engine ran well for 1400 long hard hours of use/almost abuse! I used stock size rings and the end gap was right at the max. limit according to the Kohler manual.
Complete engine disassembly would be required even for installing rings & honing. The honing operation uses a coolant/lubricant, most shops use Kerosene or diesel fuel and it's MESSY. All the honing swarf (metal & used abrasive grit) is rinsed down thru the crankcase of the engine. And it all has to be cleaned out WELL before reassembly.
The other alternative is a complete rebuild. New piston/rings/wrist pin& keepers/conn rod, bore & hone the bore to the next O/S, maybe grind the rod journal U/S, all new gaskets & seals, spark plug, points, condensor, carb rebuild, points pushrod.
Hope that helps. I will say that the K321 I rebuilt several years ago does have more blowby than the K241 it replaced. In a single cylinder engine the piston moving up & down changes the volume INSIDE the crankcase with every stroke of the piston. The reed valve on the breather cover is supposed to hold a slight vacuum inside the crankcase, but there's machined holes from the valve spring chamber INTO the cyl. bore, and towards the cam drive gears to splash oil and circulate air thru the crankcase. So getting little or NO blowby is not possible.
The best test of Kohler K-series engine condition I've found is "oil consumption". If it starts burning or really leaking oil it's tired. The "U-tube manometer test" shown in the Kohler manual is also a good test of engine condition.
Joe Oligschlaeger - Pretty neat idea for a lawn aerator.
I built an aerator 20+ yrs ago, but it's a dedicated tool. Mounting your's on the tiller saves a lot of extra work in construction and attaching/detaching I bet.
I try to aerate my yard every year but sometimes Mother Nature doesn't cooperate and I miss a year every now and then.
I over-seeded the very back portion of my yard late last fall, had a lot of weeds and sparse spots in the grass. I just dumped 2-3 pounds of old grass seed in the fertilizer spreader when I fertilized the yard last fall after I aerated. I NEVER realized how well the grass took over until I mowed last Monday! I think it ALL grew!
I built an aerator 20+ yrs ago, but it's a dedicated tool. Mounting your's on the tiller saves a lot of extra work in construction and attaching/detaching I bet.
I try to aerate my yard every year but sometimes Mother Nature doesn't cooperate and I miss a year every now and then.
I over-seeded the very back portion of my yard late last fall, had a lot of weeds and sparse spots in the grass. I just dumped 2-3 pounds of old grass seed in the fertilizer spreader when I fertilized the yard last fall after I aerated. I NEVER realized how well the grass took over until I mowed last Monday! I think it ALL grew!
And they get PO'd when they are asked to do it right!
Richard, I don't know the terms but the concept is pretty self explanitory. the piece with the two pins fit the two holes at the ends of the chain. then the piece with 2 holes goes on far enough to see the grooves in the pins. Then put the short slotted end on one pin and get it to the outside end of the slot. then, see how the long slotted side is split, pick one side up over the remaining pin and make sure it locks in the groove. do it a couple times before putting the link on the chain to get used to how it works. good luck.
T-Mo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2009
- Messages
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- Terry Reed
I have updated my Brochure and Literature section on my web site. I have "fixed" the broken links and have also added new brochures and literature. If you haven't had the chance, check it out:
http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=SF&f=36
I hope to be adding more literature soon. So check back often.
http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=SF&f=36
I hope to be adding more literature soon. So check back often.
Richard Tunison
Just like the link in a motor cycle chain real simple. Slip into the link to be repaired and the last piece is the lock. if you need and sometimes it will need to have the side link pushed in so the lock will go in place. Good luck
Just like the link in a motor cycle chain real simple. Slip into the link to be repaired and the last piece is the lock. if you need and sometimes it will need to have the side link pushed in so the lock will go in place. Good luck
LOL,
Looks like Richard T. will be getting his fair share of skinned knuckles real soon!
Those things are a real PITA to put on!
Looks like Richard T. will be getting his fair share of skinned knuckles real soon!
Those things are a real PITA to put on!
Richard T,
I'll go with "old and stuck" since it's an aluminum casting.
Also, with master link installation, if it was a complete ( continuous) chain the closed end of the snap link would be facing the direction of rotation. It reduces the chance of the snap link coming off ( old dirt knowledge I learned the hard way )
Jeff
I'll go with "old and stuck" since it's an aluminum casting.
Also, with master link installation, if it was a complete ( continuous) chain the closed end of the snap link would be facing the direction of rotation. It reduces the chance of the snap link coming off ( old dirt knowledge I learned the hard way )
Jeff
Test
You were correct Jeff. There is a cast in shoulder to receive the new bearing. I could not see that looking down the tube do to "debris" that has since been removed. Thanks for the advice. I made a "tool" out of 1/4in. steel rebar about 2ft. long to get to it. Ground a nice sharp angle on one end......... down the tube, lined up with a finger and after a couple of whacks it flew out of the casting. In basketball it would have been a swish.
Put all of the new parts in for a dry run (including a bearing on the top of the tube) and even without the super steer kit coming it is TIGHT and free spinning.
I'll be doing the same thing to my 129 this winter.
Put all of the new parts in for a dry run (including a bearing on the top of the tube) and even without the super steer kit coming it is TIGHT and free spinning.
I'll be doing the same thing to my 129 this winter.
Hey Digger,,, on the skinned knuckles, I've not attempted to remove that link yet but I have evidence of other misguided air tools and hammers.
Yes, I still bite my nails at 60+, get past it.....LOL. Grease and rust is good for you! (NOT).
I took the starter/generator to a shop that has been around here for 60 yrs. servicing large and small units of this type and it checked out great so with new parts and a through cleaning/paint it is assembled and ready to be installed. It actually worked when I bought it but I went through it.
Yes, I still bite my nails at 60+, get past it.....LOL. Grease and rust is good for you! (NOT).
I took the starter/generator to a shop that has been around here for 60 yrs. servicing large and small units of this type and it checked out great so with new parts and a through cleaning/paint it is assembled and ready to be installed. It actually worked when I bought it but I went through it.
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