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Archive through September 14, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Ahhhh! The sweet smell of another Hytran debate, gotta love it.
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Len S,
It's your Cub, you what ya want, Just don't try to convert me or my Cubs.
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Charlie -

I see you found our new emoticon
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Lake County Show -

If those that are intending to show something would let me know, I should be able to cordon off a reasonable area on Friday afternoon. I have the day off and will take my first load over about 3-ish.
 

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Jim, where did you get your 3 in. pulley?

My QA-42A will used for the first time this winter, and I noticed that it doesn't have the correct 5/8" width pulley on it. Does anyone have a part number for the smaller diameter pulley replacement?

I also noticed that CCSpecialties has a 5/8" pulley for sale for $35. Not sure what diameter it is though....
 
Len S......Hytran and 30W are not compatible with each other. I know of no application for IH made equipment where 30W is an acceptable replacement for Hytran.

Of course if you want to use 30W.........well lets just say the results will be less than steller.
 
Ken,
I think he was thinking about what the manual shows on what can be used. I hope he wasn't talkin about mixin the two.
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Ken & Charlie

Yes, I'm talking about using 100% 30 weight engine oil in the transmission on a Cub Cadet. Are you guys saying the FACTORY manual is wrong to include that as an option, or are your comments based more on folklore rather than factual experience?
 
Len,
When in doubt, USE HY-TRAN!
It has water/moisture rentention properties that straight oil does not have and is MUCH BETTER to use than 30W.
 
Len, due to past discussions, I think the big question is "why?". If it's price, compare the two sometime. Hytran also has a lot better moisture displacement qualities that motor oil. My tractors get nothing but Hytran, and OE Cub Cadet filters (on the hydros).
 
Man, when it gets dead around here, all someone has to do is bring up oil
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Bryan,

I will be coming to the Lake County show and I am probably going to bring out 2 or 3 tractors. I will probably bring them Friday afternoon/evening or early Saturday morning.
 
Bryan,
I'll be there Saturday, but can't make it Sunday. I can only fit one CC and an attachment in the bed of my truck, so that's what I'll bring.
 
3" pulleys -

McMaster for cast iron ones, local farm supply for the stamped steel type. Personally I prefer the cast iron ones.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the cast zinc fractional horsepower pulleys.

Ray L. -

Didja know that there was a tractor parade from the Thompson Center to Garfield Park on Saturday?

I'd have to wrap thr tractors in kevlar before I try that one...
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Len S. This is from the Sauer Sunstrand manual on the 15 series pump. As for characteristics of the fluid selected should include: Viscosity, Oxidation, Thermal Stability, Shear Stability, Low Temperature Fluidity, Rust Inhibition, Anti Foam, Water Compability, Filtration Limitations, Anti-Wear Properties.

Fluids used successfully in the hydrostatic transmission are: (1) anti-wear hydraulic oil, (2) automatic transmission fluid - Type F. (3) hydraulic transmission fluid (type used by the Agricultural Industry for combined hydraulic, transmission, and wet brake systems.

The selected fluid should provide a minimum viscosity of 47 SUS at 210 degrees Fahrenheit. A maximum measured viscosity of 6000 SUS at the lowest expected startup temperature.

Hydraulic transmission oil has a 0 Degrees F viscosity SUS of 12000. At 100 Degrees F... 233. At 210 degrees F a viscosity SUS of 49. A viscosity index of 100. Pour Point at zero degrees Fahrenheit of -35 and an operating range (typical 0 degrees F) of ... 0-200 degrees Fahrenheit.

This should give you something to compare your 30 weight engine oil against. One more thing. Maybe (not saying that a mistake was made) ... maybe, just maybe a misprint was made in stating that engine oil could be used in a hydrostatic transmission. The party typing up the manual was still thinking about the gear drive transmission. Also, would you put transmission oil in your engine? Just a thought.
 
Bryan,
Wow, didn't know about the parade <font size="-2">not that I'd go and see it</font>. I suppose replaing the glazing with lexan would also be in order. . . .

Also found out the other day that there's a Cook County Farm Bureau. (for real!) Topics include management of roof top soil erosion, # of livestock allowed per city lot, and of course, Hiz Honor's u-pick-it garden in Grant Park.

(I've noticed there's been a marked increase of vagrant activity in the region around the garden this summer. The bums have been looking healthier--more of a shine to them AND the urine at 12th st station smells of asparagus. Course, they want you to pick the veggies for them. . .)
 
Ray L. -

That explains why I haven't seen the Earl of South Wabash this summer!
 
Len S,

Looking at your profile, it appears you have a 122 (gear drive). If I was going to put engine oil in the gear box, I would use multi grade. Straight 30 wt gets pretty viscous at cold temps.
I have only used hy-tran in my cubs, but I don't have any cubs with gear boxs either.
 
Jim S. On using multi - grade engine oil in a tranny. I think the engineers originally meant a non detergent engine oil for such applications as a Cub Cadet gear drive transmission. Are multi grade oils of a detergent nature? I can't remember off hand. Also, just think of the old farm tractors where 90 weight oil was used in the transmissions. I definitely remember having to let the H and M warm up before moving on a cold winter morning. Personally though, I'd still use Hy Tran or a fluid that MEETS or EXCEEDS the manufacturer's specifications. We must remember that even though say i.e. Ford has an engine or transmission oil for their vehicles not all of us use their lubricants exclusively even though we own one of their products. And one more thing... the manufacturers have companies that gladly package their oil under a private label name. Thus the manufacturer can charge more for the exact same oil/product because it bears their name. (Like the time many years ago when my oldest brother overheard a woman in the grocery store telling her husband to put back the store brand milk. It always had an off taste. She had him get the the name brand milk because it tasted better. Funny thing was this. My brother worked in that facility and when the order was filled for the name brand they kept the line flowing by bottling the store's brand. Different strokes... I guess.)
 
Well, regardless, just about any oil is better than no oil at all.
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Hytran is probably the best, but I have only had one gear drive cub with that in it. Others have had 90wt. or 30wt. Once I got a rearend that had all of it's Hytran drained out. I had to fix the 1st/rev shift fork, and I was amazed to find the trans full of water, but no rust at all. That's why it's probably the best, and also, unfortunately, one of the most expensive.
 

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