Archive through September 14, 2005

[agitch]

I couldn't find anything in FAQ. I've got two questions. How can I tell which carburetor I have on my KT17 Series I? I recently bought a Carburetor baffle kit (dealer called it turbolizer kit) and when I got it home and opened up the instructions it read for KT & Magnum engines with Walbro carb. The dealer made it sound like it didn't matter what carb was on it. I won't be able to talk to dealer until Monday and can't find anything on internet about this kit or whether there's a different kit for a Kohler carb. This kit is KH-82-755-24 and the instruction sheet is TT310-A. Thanks

 

[bmcmeen]

Adrian G. -

Just a thought - did you download the FREE Kohler manual (see the FAQ on manuals) and compare the pictures in the manual with what you have on your engine? I know they show you what they look like in the single-cylinder manual, so I'm sure they won't let you down with the two-cylinder manual...

 

[sleggett]

Frank M -
I'm gonna try to get down to Cub-a-Rama
need to do some trading, just had an emergency apendectamy on Monday, still a little slow right now but should be fine by then, anyone else going ?

 

[tmanley]

A couple times here I have seen pics of a minature haybaler. Does anybody have one or used one? Or was it a custom built rig?

Looking to try planting a plot of hay next season, and would like to do the whole thing with the cubs.

TIA

 

[nwerka]

There is an old retired farmer near me in NC who rebuilds Letter series Farmall who has built several square balers powered by 3.5hp engines that put out 1'x 2' bales. His machines have been featured in several magazines. Don't know if that is the one you are thinking about. I don't know if he has any for sale or not.

 

[bmcmeen]

Torin -

You'd be amazed at what all shows up when you type "miniature hay baler" into Google

 

[agitch]

Bryan, I had downloaded the KT17 manual and it had two sections for the mixture adjustments (walbro and kohler) yet only one picture. Hoping someone may know of an obvious difference in appearance on the two carbs. Although I'm wondering if it doesn't matter seems like the turbolizer kit would help either of the two carbs and it would install just the same.

 

[rbedell]

Adrain G:

You are correct, the KT-17 Service Manual does NOT differeniate between Kohler and Walbro Carbs. I done a little research in the Kohler Carb Reference Manual. The way to tell the difference is in the High Speed Adjustment Screw. The Kohler built carb has it located on the very top of the carb, as shown in the KT-17 Service Manual in Figures 4.1 and 4.2. The Walbro Carb has it located on the side of the carb at an angle.

If I recall correctly, that turbolizer kit was for the Walbro built carb.

Found this is some files I had saved:
<font color="ff0000">Carburetor baffle kit 82-755-24 for KT & Magnum twin cylinder engines with walbro carburetors</font>
Hope this helps,

(Message edited by rbedell on September 17, 2005)

 

[mbounds]

RE Turbolizer: What it's purpose is....to ensure good fuel distribution/mixture to the cylinder with the loong manifold inlet. Fuel starvation to that cylinder was what prompted the development of the kit. It'll work just fine on both carb versions for the same reason....That the turbolizer kit was not developed till after the introduction of the Walbro replacement of the Kohler carb is likely irrelevant. Use the kit ! !
Myron B

 

[agitch]

Thanks guys I really appreciate. Myron i agree that the kit would help regardless of what carb was used. I'll still have to take notice which carb I have. Thanks again!

 

[jsmartin]

thought i had it fixed,carb was pouring gas out of it,float was cracked,put new one in,everything was great,was running it with the air cleaner off,no gas pouring out of carb,put air filter on(the oil bath type)went out shopping,came home gas on floor in garage,took air filter off,air fiter full of gas,what is wrong with it?i did leave gas shut off in the on position when i was gone but it shouldn't fill up air filter with gas,maybe the needle isn't seating properly?checked it a few times blew it out with air sprayed carb cleaner,i'm running out of ideas,any help would be much appreciated,if the points aren't set properly could it cause this problem?

 

[bmcmeen]

Jeff M. -

It could be a vicious cycle. You took it apart again to replace the float, now either the new float isn't quite level or a piece of crud got in the needle/seat when you shut off the gas then turned it back on for the repair...

Remember, you're jostling up crud everytime you work on it, so maybe it's an indication of an issue further up the line...

 

[mjames]

jeff did you set float level as per instructions?

 

[bmcmeen]

Hmmm - there's an echo in here

 

[dclinansmith]

Hello All,
I have been a regular reader (lurker) for some time. Up to this point all my questions have been answered without being asked. I have not found a reference to my current problem in the archives or FAQs. I am installing a 16 hp Onan twin engine in a 682 CC and have not been able to find a drive flange. Does anyone have a source or will this have to be locally manufactured? TIA.

 

[rbedell]

Jeff M:

I had a similar situation with one of my Cubs. Come to find out, that I had debris (foreign) material in my gas tank and it was re-contaminating my carb. I removed the gas tank, and cleaned everything from the tank to the carb, including the carb valve seat. If I recall correctly, you are working on an Original. This would also include the Sediment Bowl. Once you have everything cleaned up and blowed out real good, make sure the fuel you put back in is filtered also. With everything clean and filtered fuel, you should have no issues.

These are my suggestions and I hope this helps,

 

[dreid]

Questions on clean up of an H-42 for winter

I have an older h-42 thrower that I'm trying to get ready for winter (better now that the temps are 70 rather than 10).

It hasn't seen a lot of loving care from the previous owner, and this owner is just learning, so there are some areas around the universal knuckles and the gearbox that are a bit grimey. I can use Q-tips and rags to clean it up, but for a general approach, is there a miracle material one might spray on, let set awhile, then use a pressure washer to remove the bulk of the old oil/dirt/stuff? I can't see that the gearbox is leaking or anything, but would like to have most of the crap removed that would immediately jump into the open hole when I check the grease and other levels. (sub question, did I read here that changing the gearbox grease is an occassional event, or does it need to be done yearly?)

Question two is that the operators manual shows me the grease zerks and the instruction on lubing the drive chain to the rotating spiral that gathers then throws the snow, but for the life of me, neither can I see anything in the manual or on inspection where to lubricate the bearings or pivots for the main thrower on either side of the frame. Are these sealed and don't need care?

I've been using white lithium grease to spray the roller chain (which tends to get thrown around a little bit), but is is acceptable, or is oil better?

Dale

 

[jstorma]

I have a QA42A snowthrower and it has the stright top linkages. I want to use it on my 782. It works ok. but the shoot is offly close to the front and it will hit the front of the tractor if turned right. I know I can get curved bars but they seen pricey, even used. Just figured I would make my own. I'am curious to know though if the hole to hole distance between the two type of linkages are the same length or are they farther apart on the curved arms. I would think they are and that they must "tip" the thrower forward abit to give more room between the shoot and the front of the tractor.

Also you guys that are running a 3" pulley... Did you guys have to get a new shorter belt or did you have enough adjustment to take up the extra slack?

 

[digger]

Jim,
Same belt will work just fine as long as it's a new one.

 

[lsiebert]

Does anybody out there run 30 weight oil in their Cub Cadet transmission instead of HyTran? Why or why not? The Cub manual seems to say 30 weight is a viable alternative to HyTran and I am tempted to use it.