Archive through September 13, 2013

[jbaker]

Frank just got bit, now try again

 

[fcurrier]

I'll try again:

 

[jbaker]

Frank, that serial number came close to a IH production change in the QL series, but its not so send north of the border.

 

[fcurrier]

Thanks, Jeff! I thought I had it done-and that was quite a few BL's ago. I went back to where I got the 149 and gave the guy $75 for this. If I'd been paying attention and got them both at the same time I'd have saved a trip. (and not had to come up with a hydro return tube for the "newer model" 149
However, I left him info on how to get back to me if he gets another "junk" Cub Cadet I shall rant, now. Why? Because I can.

 

[sshaff]

I'm hoping for some advice from you experienced and wise cub mechanics on the forum. My 70 show tractor now has 5-10 hours on it since it was refurbished three years ago. Over the past year or so I've been noticing a slight rattle while its running and until today I've been puzzled by its source. Apparently the set screws came out of the basket pulley and it now has a lot of play in it. Wondering if the basket pulley and key will need to be replaced (due to wear caused by running it loose) or if simply replacing the set screws will suffice for the long (or short) term. I understand this a fairly common problem and am wondering about others' experience with this...

 

[digger]

Steve S.
Take it off and check the key and the slot in the crank for wear.
If your lucky, you may have just buggered up the key or the slot in the pulley.
If your not to lucky, you messed up the crank key way.
But if it's only a show tractor that's not going to be used for work, and you did bugger up the crank slot, JB weld that puppy, put some lock tight on the set screws and let if fly. JMHO

 

[sshaff]

Thanks Charlie. Wondering about the long term risk of the crank not running true unless the pulley is replaced?

 

[digger]

The crank won't be an issue.
It just depends on how long it's been flopping around and how much damage has be done.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve S., if it'd been run long with it loose it might look like this.

A modified key like this one might get you by.

 

[sshaff]

Thanks, Craig. Sounds like, at the very least, the key will probably need to be replaced. Someone with considerable experience told me, however, the problem would reoccur unless I replace the pulley, too. Just wondering if this has been the case for others...

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE S. - Sorry to hear about your loose basket pulley, BUT, I think you can follow the suggestions here and fix it up. Those little K161's in the 70 don't make enough horse power to hurt themselves like that. Buy a longer drive key, or a 12" length of key stock, I forget if it's 3/16" or 1/4", but use the longest length you can fit into the slot and still get the pilot bearing for the PTO clutch & locking collar on. The stock keys were WAY too short. You can radius the bottom side of the end closest to the engine to extend the key back between the basket pulley and block, plus grind the key down like Kraig's picture shows. Driving the key itself back towards the engine forces the key up out of the keyway in the crankshaft which tightens the key in the basket pulley. That's what you want.

Normally the 12 & 14 HP Kohlers wallow out the keyway in the crankshaft the worst, the 10's normally don't bother either like the 7 & 8 HP's.

JB Weld, or Lock-Tight blue will help secure the key and the set screws once they're tightened. Lightly sand or "Scotch-Brite" the bore of the basket pulley and crankshaft. You just want to remove any rust, not remove metal. But to ease assembly, if there's any burrs on the crankshaft, run a flat file over them lightly until they feel smooth.

If you only ran the engine 5-10 hours with little or no load on the engine via the PTO clutch I doubt your keyway in the crankshaft is wallowed out like Kraig's picture shows. You can probably use your old basket pulley too.

One other thing while you have your basket pulley off for this repair, after all these years of use, I have had the hub of the basket pulley spin inside the stamped steel basket pulley where it's pressed together. Normally this only happens on higher HP engines, 12 & 14 HP, but to prevent this I always weld a couple tack welds on both sides of the hub to the stamped pulley. That hub is actually the ONLY place in a CC where FULL engine HP is transmitted when running PTO driven attachments like mower decks, snow blowers, tillers, etc.

I guess IH didn't plan on these old garden tractors to still be running FIFTY years after they were built!

 

[bbranstetter]

Got the motor fired up but I think there is still a problem. My next step is to hook up an oil pressure gauge and check things out. I'm wondering if putting the oil filer attachment on was a bad idea and maybe starving the motor for oil.


http://youtu.be/A03jcewdjvU

 

[sshaff]

Dennis-- Thanks for the insight and suggestions. We tried installing a new set screw today just to see if the pulley would tighten up at all... apparently the threads were stripped in at least in one of the holes (presumably from excessive wobble). Given this, I'm planning to replace the pulley itself and go from there.

 

[mfrade]

Hydro Harry - I went to look at a couple of IH Windbreakers today and while talking with the seller I asked if he was on any of the Cub Cadet websites, he said only the original one and that was some years back. He asked me if I knew someone called Hydro Harry! Of course I said yes and mentioned that the windbreaker was going on the tractor I got from your son Matt. His name is Phil Barlow and he said he got a 1450 and a 1200 from you as well as these windbreakers and some mower decks and other things when you were leaving for the west coast! He also showed me a motor that you and Kenny Wieman (sic) rebuilt at Jim Chabot's place!

We chatted (gossiped) for a couple hours before heading home. He is a real nice guy and asked me to say hello to you for him.. so... HELLO HARRY!

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE S. - Yes, with one or both set screw holes stripped, you'll have to replace the basket pulley. To drill & tap larger threads you'd have such large and coarse threads there'd only be 2-3 threads in the hubs.

I have drilled out and tapped PTO clutches for 5/16" NC set screws. Works fine.

 

[messary]

Steve,
Had the same issue with the 12 hp in my loader. I drilled and tapped the holes to the next size, but I used fine thread. Sorry, I don't remember the size. I also used loctite quick metal to fill up the clearance between the shaft and hub as it wobbled enough to get too loose on the shaft. I also used a longer key and drove it back to lock it in. Two years with no problems.

 

[mmasheris]

On a powder soating note has any one found out what color the IH whites are? The yellow is a standard RAL color.I have used some ivory that is close but would like to find the right one.

 

[aschumacher]

...late Labor Day picnics this weekend ?? You didn't invite me?

 

[sshaff]

Well, apparently the set screws for my basket pulley should be 5/16 x 3/8...the one we tried yesterday was 1/4 x 1/2, so no wonder it wouldn't go in. MAYBE the threads aren't stripped after all. I'd rather not take it apart unless it's critical. So here's my question: If I try inserting the right set screws and the play disappears should I assume it's fine, or will it be necessary to remove the pulley and inspect it (and the crankshaft) for wear? I've been told it's unlikely that replacement screws would stay in place at this point...

 

[jchamberlin]

Steve: I vote to try the set screws; I don't see where it would hurt. However, I can see the value of taking pulley off it is required to install the longer key of which Dennis spoke.