Archive through September 12, 2008

[wheinsohn]

Well, my 109 went through the 3rd used coil a couple weeks ago so today it got a complete tune up including coil, points, condensor, and spark plug. She fired right up. I remember someone said to check to see how many volts the starter/generator was putting. If I remember right, they said it should not be over 13.5 to 13.7. I have 13.84 at the battery with the engine running wide open. Is this causing my problems with coils?

 

[bnolte]

Wes,
A quarter volt over spec shouldn't cause problems, I've run mine hotter than that and gotten away with it anyway. Perhaps the switch was left on at some point when the points were closed and the engine was off, which would cause the coil to get hot (but also kill the battery), just plain bad luck, or vibration is getting to it.

If your previous replacement coils were automotive coils, remember that some of them require the use of external ballast resistors, the Cub coils have the ballast resistor built into them, so they don't require an external ballast. Coils that require an external ballast are designed to work at a lower voltage than 12 volts, where the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to provide more voltage to the plugs when starting. After the engine starts, the ballast resistor is placed in the circuit to prevent the coil from overheating.

It wouldn't hurt to turn down the voltage adjustment on the regulator a bit, but a good coil should be able to survive 13.9 volts just fine.

 

[jdreaves]

582 Governor Adjustment

Anyone have guidance or instructions on adusting governor on 582 Briggs engine. Built carburetor, and have it adjusted, but governor lags a little. Engine will sputter and cough before governor kicks in. Beginning to wonder if the 582 was worth the $400 my brother wanted??

Thanks,

John-David Reaves Roll Tide

 

[aschumacher]

J-D, go up top to the FAQ's and get the first screen, then at top go to Charlies FAQ's and look at #22. I think the lube oil controls the governors action...is the oil ok, or look like soup??

 

[aschumacher]

ooops, you say B+S engine...these faq's probabily wount work, but give concept of why ur doing what adj.

 

[rchristensen]

Finally back on the rebuild of the 1650. Stripping it down. Had to weld a new nut on the foot pads, also had to weld up the usual wear points where the hangers mount for the mower deck.

Frame down to basics and ready to start stripping and painting.

Discovered why the PO had a constant hydro fluid leak from the rear end.

Any ideas on how to repair the busted area around the lower bolt hole?

I'm kind of leaning towards cleaning it up good, put 3 studs in the lower three bolt holes with a good lock tite. Then seal coat the gasket with some good sealant and coat it good around the busted casting area. Probably put rubber washers on the nuts.

I'm open to suggestions, doubt anything like JB weld would hold.

 

[theaton]

I had some good seat time on the 128 this afternoon, taking care of everyones fav fall chore LEAVES!

I managed to cram all them leaves onto the "redneck" trailor.

 

[kide]

Richard:
Is the line indicated by the arrows a crack or just a scratch? If it's just a scratch and all you've got is a chip, then it should seal OK. If that is really a crack, I'd be tempted to make friends with a weldor that can braze cast iron..that could spread if it's a crack and it does take stress as one of the bolt holes for the bolts that hold the tab hitch on....

 

[rbedell]

Richard:

I had a similar issue with one of my Cubs. Mine resulted in the PO not tightening the bolts when he mounted the Tiller.

A couple of this bolt holes broke the inside of the Casting. Fortunately for me, I found all the broken pieces. I took the Cub to a Professional Welder, and he welded the broken chips back into place. So far...so good.

 

[digger]

Another one of those, I had seen it all things!
A guy emailed last night and wanted to know what he needed to fix his PTO.
Bear in mind that the round chrome Uni-Ball was actually part of his PTO when he took it apart.

This is his first Cub and he's getting it put back together fairly well too.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Progress photos as promised, or would that be as threatened?

 

[rtunison]

Lookin' good Kraig. Excellent workmanship.

 

[digger]

Looks great Kraig!

I threw some paint today myself.

 

[fcurrier]

Never underestimate the usefulness of spare parts:

And, yes, that does say "class of 1967".

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Looking sharp!

Frank-
A gasoline fired furnace?

<font size="-2">Something looks scary about that set up..</font>

 

[mchessor]

i have a intermitant problem my 129 will not start i checked and when the key is turned to the start position the starter loses its ground. the soliniod is hot with the key on on all 3 posts isnt it only suppose to be hot in the start poition?

 

[aschumacher]

Frank, I know the economy is tight right now, but you cant afford more than that fillup when the oil truck stops by??

 

[junderwood]

Kraig,

Looking great. You just need to forget about sleeping this week and get it done. Then bring it over to Montrose next weekend and it can plow a round with 696.

 

[digger]

Mick C.
That's a sure sign of a direct short and or many loose or corroded connections. Check'um all out and clean them all up and make sure they are all good and tight.

 

[aaytay]

Mic-
Start with what Charlie recommends. Even if it doesn't fix it, then you know all of the connections are good and solid.

That also sounds like it could be a bad ignition switch. Notice I say "sounds like", because it may be something different.

If it were my tractor, I would disconnect the ignition switch and temporarily "hot wire" the ignition wires together with some small pig-tail wires to test it out.

If you get the same situation, you may be able to rule out a bad ignition switch.