Well guys since it was rainy today I got the hydro fluid changed and put the correct Napa filter on my 129. Only problem is it still doesn't go as fast as it should. Only goes half of what it should forward and barely a crawl in reverse. What now? I'm compleled to think its in the linkage now. I took the tunnel cover off and checked it out and from the looks of it the linkage is not moving as far as it should quite possibly the cause of the problem. Question is where would it be hanging up at? Anyone run into this before? Would there be something underneath the dash that cause this or is it all down by the hydro? Really I'm hoping that I won't have to tear the rear seat pan and fenders off again it was a real pain last time. Thanks in advance.
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Archive through September 12, 2008
- Thread starter mreed
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stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Micheal R...
I would let it run for a while, and run the gamut of fwd/rvs, and cycle the lift a few times, to get the air out, then check the fluid level. Is the filter on the list of approved filters? Are you using HyTran? Check out the FAQ's for linkage adjustment. Fwd speed is all of 8 mph, according to the manual... The linkage ends could be worn, or the PO had tried to adjust it so it is wrong now... (Pulling straws here)...
check these link out, If you haven't already..
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblems.htm
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html
Take a look at your relief valves, and see if they are not slightly open. Nubs should stick up ~3/16" HTH
I would let it run for a while, and run the gamut of fwd/rvs, and cycle the lift a few times, to get the air out, then check the fluid level. Is the filter on the list of approved filters? Are you using HyTran? Check out the FAQ's for linkage adjustment. Fwd speed is all of 8 mph, according to the manual... The linkage ends could be worn, or the PO had tried to adjust it so it is wrong now... (Pulling straws here)...
check these link out, If you haven't already..
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblems.htm
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html
Take a look at your relief valves, and see if they are not slightly open. Nubs should stick up ~3/16" HTH
Yep its the correct filter, Kraig hooked me up with the numbers, yes its approved fluid. Its still acting like it did before. The linkaged seemed to look pretty good when I had the pan off of it, no visible wear on the trunion, but what do I know.
Ya know sometimes it makes ya wonder what people are thinkin.
stanner
Well-known member
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- Oct 2, 2002
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Micheal R..
I guess I would check the relief valve, and perhaps try placing the tractor rear upon jackstands, and run it. See how the linkage moves, and try to reach in with something to the trunnion to give it some help and see if the arm can move more, thus getting more speed. Perhaps the trunnion springs are broke or weak.....
I guess I would check the relief valve, and perhaps try placing the tractor rear upon jackstands, and run it. See how the linkage moves, and try to reach in with something to the trunnion to give it some help and see if the arm can move more, thus getting more speed. Perhaps the trunnion springs are broke or weak.....
I think this cub is trying to make me feel stupid or something
I went though the horror of taking the rear pan off again and lo and behold it was something simple (imagine that!
) All it turned out to be was the brake was a bit rusty and not going all the way back up, thus causing the neutral mech. for the brake pedal to hold the drive linkage back if that makes any sense. I'll have to loosen it up some and maybe replace the return spring. Anyone else ever have your cub make a fool out of ya? lol
Michael, yep!
Charlie, wow, an AGC (Anti Glare Cub), and a custom wiring harness to boot! Say, is that a 14hp? The frame appears to be flared for the flywheel. Ooooo and it has a creeper too! Nice battery tie down strap.
Got any more photos?
Charlie, wow, an AGC (Anti Glare Cub), and a custom wiring harness to boot! Say, is that a 14hp? The frame appears to be flared for the flywheel. Ooooo and it has a creeper too! Nice battery tie down strap.
Kraig,
Yepper on the 14 horse engine.
The rest of the beast.
Yepper on the 14 horse engine.
The rest of the beast.
Oooo, flames and a custom steering wheel!
I just got in from working on the Original. I installed the foot rests and the shift lever. I adjusted the toe-in and sprayed primer on some bolts. I might have some time tomorrow to work on it before I have to clean up and head to a wedding. If all goes well I might get some paint on the fenders and get the fender mount installed and the transmission cover plate, draw bar and three point brackets installed.
Kraig,
COOL!
Ya know what's really funny! That black beast actually runs great, I was amazed.
COOL!
Ya know what's really funny! That black beast actually runs great, I was amazed.
- Joined
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- Brian Branstetter
Did someone say anti glare?
hi everyone, sorry for the delay. I started the mower, and let it run til it died. per suggestion, when i sprayed carb cleaner inside the carb, i could keep it running.
so this means the problem is from the tank to the carb, yes?
so this means the problem is from the tank to the carb, yes?
Jacob H.
Remove the line coming from the tank to the carb at the carb. That will tellya if it's the tank or maybe the float is stuck inside the carb.
If you have fuel coming through the line, remove the fuel bowl and gently tap the float up and down. If fuel starts coming out, lift the float to where it's level and see if it stops the fuel flow. If it does, replace the bowl and try firing it up again.
You might have to go for a carb rebuild either way.
Remove the line coming from the tank to the carb at the carb. That will tellya if it's the tank or maybe the float is stuck inside the carb.
If you have fuel coming through the line, remove the fuel bowl and gently tap the float up and down. If fuel starts coming out, lift the float to where it's level and see if it stops the fuel flow. If it does, replace the bowl and try firing it up again.
You might have to go for a carb rebuild either way.
Have a problem with my 125 ! it does not have the speck plate attached to the 12 , and i want to order new head bolts and studs to mount the heat shield and gas tank. So if someone that has a 125 could post the spec No. then i could order what i need. Thanks Don T
I spent some time this morning working on K4K before the rain started back up. I got the lift lever stop bracket, transmission cover plate, draw bar and three point brackets installed. I cleaned up, primed and painted the cover for the voltage regulator and I got one fender painted. After it started raining I spent some time cleaning up the steering wheel, removing all the old paint from the hub and spokes. It's now ready for primer but it's stil raining out so that will have to wait for another day. Time to get cleaned up for the wedding.
I'll take some progress photos of K4K tomorrow for posting. Hmmm,
I wonder if I should bring my camera to the wedding....
naw, my wife and daughter will bring theirs.
Did I mention today is the season opener for the Wisconsin deer bow season, fall turkey season and the rough grouse season as well as other species? And I have to go to a wedding! I'd rather be hunting.
On the bright side I didn't have to decide which species to hunt.
Got some pictures from the Maryland Steam Historical Society show in Arcadia MD. After a miserable rainy day yesterday the sun came out as well as the crowds. Found a few useful gadgets I was looking for as well.
Some of the many Cubs I saw running around up there, along with some MF, Ford, and those green things! One of these CCOs has a twin cylinder Onan under the hood.
A whole bunch more Cubs.
There were hundreds of the old antique Hit and Miss engines.
This was the largest of the hit and miss engines, a twin cylinder Fairbanks dated from 1908 IIRC. It used to generate power for a lakeside home in upstate New York.
Here is the other side of the old Fairbanks. In order to start it, the owner uses a 5 HP Briggs to spin up the flywheel.
More Cubs, along with a bunch of smaller Farmalls.
A nicely done low-slung Farmall Cub with a Sickle Mower attachment.
Looking down Tractor Row
A rock crushing demonstration
As usual, there were a bunch of old Steam Tractors. When they all blow those whistles at once, you can hear them 5 miles away.
They had demonstrations for threshing, sawing, shingle making, and blacksmithing as well
Some of the many Cubs I saw running around up there, along with some MF, Ford, and those green things! One of these CCOs has a twin cylinder Onan under the hood.
A whole bunch more Cubs.
There were hundreds of the old antique Hit and Miss engines.
This was the largest of the hit and miss engines, a twin cylinder Fairbanks dated from 1908 IIRC. It used to generate power for a lakeside home in upstate New York.
Here is the other side of the old Fairbanks. In order to start it, the owner uses a 5 HP Briggs to spin up the flywheel.
More Cubs, along with a bunch of smaller Farmalls.
A nicely done low-slung Farmall Cub with a Sickle Mower attachment.
Looking down Tractor Row
A rock crushing demonstration
As usual, there were a bunch of old Steam Tractors. When they all blow those whistles at once, you can hear them 5 miles away.
They had demonstrations for threshing, sawing, shingle making, and blacksmithing as well
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