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Archive through September 10, 2011
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Also,
glippert
Well-known member
Thanks!
Now, I have really screwed up!
I brought home another Cub! Why isn't one enough? I guess the 1250 needed a bigger, younger brother.
It is a one owner, 1980 IH 782 with the Series II motor, and 50" mower deck (painted silver
).
So, the H-42 snowthrower is no longer for sale.
I brought home another Cub! Why isn't one enough? I guess the 1250 needed a bigger, younger brother.
It is a one owner, 1980 IH 782 with the Series II motor, and 50" mower deck (painted silver
So, the H-42 snowthrower is no longer for sale.
MATT G. - As far back as 1979/1980 the engineers @ FARMALL knew there was a weak spot on the driveshafts of GD CC's, the rear hole in the driveshaft at the front of the coupler going into the reduction housing would egg-shape and hammer the roll pins to pieces. The mild steel shaft was the problem. I put a MWSC 4140 hardened shaft in my 72 with the K321 install. When the throw-out bearing toasted itself last summer I replaced both bolts in the rear coupler since the grd 8 bolts were already showing wear.
There is a "FIX" for the problem, I just didn't quite get my idea across to Julian when I ordered my new clutch & driveshaft.
Far as I know the driveshaft & roll pins in the 70 are factory original, but any GD with ten or more HP will egg that one hole out and eat roll pins. I did run a set of annealed O2 Tool steel pins for 14 years in the 72 with the K241 in it. Went to several PD's before the back one in the driveshaft finally expired. It was at the ONLY PD where I had three wheel weights on the land wheel, drove the land wheel on top of a pile of bean straw, spun the tire a bit and when it bit HARD on the bare ground it was too much for that tired old pin.
If you compare MWSC's pre-hardened 4140 and STRESSPROOF steel spec's, I think either material would make excellent drive shafts. I have a "Free" two ft long piece of 5/8" Stressproof on the shelf for the NEXT new driveshaft!
There is a "FIX" for the problem, I just didn't quite get my idea across to Julian when I ordered my new clutch & driveshaft.
Far as I know the driveshaft & roll pins in the 70 are factory original, but any GD with ten or more HP will egg that one hole out and eat roll pins. I did run a set of annealed O2 Tool steel pins for 14 years in the 72 with the K241 in it. Went to several PD's before the back one in the driveshaft finally expired. It was at the ONLY PD where I had three wheel weights on the land wheel, drove the land wheel on top of a pile of bean straw, spun the tire a bit and when it bit HARD on the bare ground it was too much for that tired old pin.
If you compare MWSC's pre-hardened 4140 and STRESSPROOF steel spec's, I think either material would make excellent drive shafts. I have a "Free" two ft long piece of 5/8" Stressproof on the shelf for the NEXT new driveshaft!
KEN - part of the problem is the driveshaft itself is so small in diameter, 5/8", only .3068 square inches of cross sectional area. Then you bore a 1/4" dia. hole thru the shaft and remove approximately HALF of that surface area, over .1400 square inches, at the centerline of the 1/4" dia hole and there's next to NO metal left to support the pin.
The OEM driveshafts are probably annealed 1018 or maybe A36 steel. You look up the spec's, hardness, etc it's pretty weak. I have to admit that I did have to replace the drive pinion in the 72 back about 1990 when my first roll pin broke. I wanted to replace the roll pin in the coupler that attached to the drive pinion. But while trying to pound the roll in out the drive pinion broke instead because the roll pin was still so tight in the coupler/pinion, plus it was "Crankshafted" just a bit. I think I have the reciept around here yet, the pnion was $67 back then. OUCH!
MTD solved the problem by incorporating a rubber dampened coupling into the driveshaft. When a 12, 14, or 16+ HP single cylinder engine fires it's a PRETTY strong hit on such small parts as those roll pins. The fact that the driveshaft withstands anything and everything a K161/181 engine can put out shows how well IH tested their designs back in the early 1960's. It's only the bigger 10 HP and up engines that cause the problems when IH had to start competing with the rest of the industry in the HP WARS. I remember over hearing one of the engineers @ FARMALL discussing this with someone just about the time I bought my #72 in Jan. '81 or before. If the tractors are only used to mow, pull small trailers, etc, no heavy drawbar loads they hold up fine. But load them up with lugged tires, buch of wheel weights, go to a BUNCH of plow days and the pins & driveshafts will wear. The rag joints IH used in the hydros were effective enough of dampening that HIT along with the hydro that the driveshaft in hydro's normally wears in other ways. The drive coupler on my 129 had slots worn in it almost 1/4" long where the solid steel dowel pin wore. The slots were really "L" shaped.
But just look at it this way, how long would a V-belt last?
About the ONLY rearend & transmission that comes close to being as beefy as a CC is in the Economy PowerKing tractors IMHO, and they actually compare more closely to the CUB Farmall & LoBoy than to a Cub Cadet. And they're SO crude looking!
The OEM driveshafts are probably annealed 1018 or maybe A36 steel. You look up the spec's, hardness, etc it's pretty weak. I have to admit that I did have to replace the drive pinion in the 72 back about 1990 when my first roll pin broke. I wanted to replace the roll pin in the coupler that attached to the drive pinion. But while trying to pound the roll in out the drive pinion broke instead because the roll pin was still so tight in the coupler/pinion, plus it was "Crankshafted" just a bit. I think I have the reciept around here yet, the pnion was $67 back then. OUCH!
MTD solved the problem by incorporating a rubber dampened coupling into the driveshaft. When a 12, 14, or 16+ HP single cylinder engine fires it's a PRETTY strong hit on such small parts as those roll pins. The fact that the driveshaft withstands anything and everything a K161/181 engine can put out shows how well IH tested their designs back in the early 1960's. It's only the bigger 10 HP and up engines that cause the problems when IH had to start competing with the rest of the industry in the HP WARS. I remember over hearing one of the engineers @ FARMALL discussing this with someone just about the time I bought my #72 in Jan. '81 or before. If the tractors are only used to mow, pull small trailers, etc, no heavy drawbar loads they hold up fine. But load them up with lugged tires, buch of wheel weights, go to a BUNCH of plow days and the pins & driveshafts will wear. The rag joints IH used in the hydros were effective enough of dampening that HIT along with the hydro that the driveshaft in hydro's normally wears in other ways. The drive coupler on my 129 had slots worn in it almost 1/4" long where the solid steel dowel pin wore. The slots were really "L" shaped.
But just look at it this way, how long would a V-belt last?
About the ONLY rearend & transmission that comes close to being as beefy as a CC is in the Economy PowerKing tractors IMHO, and they actually compare more closely to the CUB Farmall & LoBoy than to a Cub Cadet. And they're SO crude looking!
I bought this running 86 from Matt G over two years ago, and finally got around to giving it some new clothes. I had used it for the last two years as transportation around the grounds during the Tri-State Swap Meet at Portland,IN., but it had a lot of surface rust on the hood and fenders so it was time for some paint. I don't claim to restore Cub Cadets, but have refurbished as few, and all I did to this was fix a couple of dents in the fenders, replaced the exhaust valve that had too much clearance, paint it and put on new decals.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Paul-
Looking good!
Looking good!
Question for all you Cub enthusiasts that know far more than I do. I'm still wet behind the ears when it comes to the knowledge of the IHCC's. I recently inherited a 782 from my wifes grandfather last fall and i would like to put a 2 stage snowblower on it. What model or models will work on my 782? It came with an assortment of attachments, Blade, disc, tiller, cultivator and Haban 402D sickle bar. I used the snow blade last winter and i'm thinking that a snowblower would be way more efficient. My drive way is .3 miles and we average around 70 inches of snow/year.
mgwin
Well-known member
Paul,
Restore: 1. To bring back into existence or use. 2. To bring back to a previous, normal condition.
I would say yours qualifies as a restored cub!
Looking good!!!
Are those 6-12 rear tires?
Restore: 1. To bring back into existence or use. 2. To bring back to a previous, normal condition.
I would say yours qualifies as a restored cub!
Looking good!!!
Are those 6-12 rear tires?
mpatterson
Well-known member
How about some pictures Bryce???
