Archive through September 09, 2009

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, here's the Cub Cadet based Grader that Jim Chabot was working on that Denny mentioned.

Here's the other one that Denny mentioned. This one was built by Warren Newton.

 

[tbeasley]

I'm probably gonna go with dual brakes. Mine will be just a show and rider tractor. I go to a lot of hit & miss engine shows and need something cool to drive around. I use my Kawasaki brute force four wheeler to grunt stuff around the house.

 

[dfrisk]

THANKS for posting those pic's KRAIG. Jim sure did some AWESOME work on that grader.

I bet it would sure make a GREAT plowing tractor, four wheel drive, plenty of HP, good weight transfer, nice long wheelbase for a good ride. I bet it could pull a two-bottom 10" Brinly pretty well!

 

[dmull]

I have a 2-12" plow that I picked up last weekend....weight and traction is the key!

 

[dross]

D Ryan got a video of that thing in the ground, It looks like a sweet setup.

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - two 12 inch bottoms was a LOAD for a JD B. And if I remember correctly they were about 175 CID, ran at a screaming 975 to 1200 RPM depending on what vintage they were, and the tractors weighed about 3200-3500 pounds dpending on equipment/options, and ballast.

Other than my Ohio Steel Fabrication 10 inch plow for the CC's the smallest plow I've ever used is 3-14 #8 IH plow. Biggest was 7-16 WHITE plow behind a 4-180 White 4WD tractor. One thing I've noticed about all the CC PD's I've been to is that doing fieldwork with a Cub Cadet really beats You up physically compared to a full size tractor. Running a full size tractor that weighs anywhere from 7000 to 12,000 pounds and has duals sure is a LOT smoother ride than a garden tractor.

 

[dmull]

I just drove to Wisconsin over the holiday to pick it up. We hooked it up to the JD430 I redid for my dad. It pulled it, but only has starter weights on it, and needed more. I am going to have to cut the back share off, it is 2" too far to the left making it a 14" cut with no overlap. It will be a 24" cut when I get done.

It is going to be used for my turbo-diesel cub when I get it finished.

 

[sarcher]

I sure do wish I could get a stretched hood like Jim has on that grader...
It would go great on my teledyne 84ci 125 project.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Dennis F. You are correct with the 2-12" working JD B tractors. My Dad's 1946 H pulled a 2-12" Massey Harris plow. It handkled it nicely in second gear however after the H was made into a Super H engine-wise that plow pulled a lot easier. Of course then we could pull the plow in third gear which put a lot more stress on the rear end which eventually led to the right side bearing failure.

If I recall the old timers would say about the different plows and types of them... Oliver was the easiest pulling and did the best job. They brought better $$$ at auctions because of that. IH plows were close second, then Massey Harris/Ferguson and Case. Massey plows were a little harder to set up. Allis Chalmers slat bottom plows were worthless in cornstalks and tended to plug up and their regular plows didn't turn the soil near as well as they should. Ford plows just never cut it for penetration and doing a good job. And finally John Deere.... could do a good job only the hardest pulling plow and tended to work a tractor.

Weight and traction are key factors to doing any soil/tillage work. There is a good balance to both though. I remember some farmers putting on a lot of weights and adding liquid to the tires. My Dad used to say that some of that was overkill. When we saw tractors sitting in the field stuck and sometimes buried my Dad would point out that that extra weight let the farmer go too far into the wet area and when he got stuck then he was really stuck. Two tractors stick in my mind about weight and traction and tire size. The first a good friend said his Dad ordered a new 856 from the factory with wide front and 15.5 X 38 tires. No duals. He added one set of weights and could pull their 5-16" plow and 17' disc right along with the other farmers and not get stuck near as much. The other was my ex-father-in-law's 4020 with factory roll guard cab and one set of weights with wide front, and 15.5 x 38 tires. His sons swore by that tractor for fieldwork. Sometimes too wide and too much weight actually work against performance.

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN Your comments on plows is exactly what I remember also. I remember one nice fall morning DAD was going to have me fall plow with the SM-TA & IH #8 3-14. Took about 3 hours to get half a round done in half mile rows, plow must have plugged up a thousand times. It plugged so bad once it tripped the spring loaded hitch while it was out of the ground! We finally pulled the pin and left the plow set in the middle of the field and DAD rescued a couple days later with the M by picking it up with the loader.

15.5's would have been kinda small on an 856, but there were several 4010/4020's around home with them, DAD's 4010 and the neighbor's brand new side console 4020 had them. Dad always ran duals, 15.5's on the tractor and 13.6's on the duals, especially on plowed ground, more for the smoother ride, and it was a "Mud Hole Magnet". Neighbor had Firestone Deep Tread 15.5's put on his 4020 right after it was delivered, later He had the rims widened and put 18.4 X 38 BFG radial's on the back. He had duals but never ran them. The BTO I worked for all thru HS & college had 18.4 X 34's on all His 4020's & 4320. They seemed to work well also.

The BTO across the road from Our house, two young Bucks had a 4020 they farmed with in spring and pulled with during the summer. They tried to pull 6-16's with an on-land hitch with the one 4020, had dualed up 23.1 X 30's on it. The engine was making about 200-250 HP but had a REAL short fuse, plus the rearend would not handle that much HP, so they had to really watch how much weight they added to the tractor. The tractor & plow looked really impressive from 1/4 away, but when You got closer You saw they were only plowing 4-5 inches deep! Their home farm where they grew up 20 miles away was a lot different soil than We had, sandy & light, We had a LOT of clay. Those Young Guys sure taught those old-timer's how to farm for a couple years!

 

[tbeasley]

Well I got back on my tandem project. I got the fluid and filters changed in both differentials. I made my drive shaft and made the linkage to hook the controls from the front hydrostat to the rear. They both work. I have to make my rear bed and route the hydraulics before I can take her out for a spin. Still gotta hook up the rear brakes and then tear all back down for blasting and paint.

 

[drohacek]

I'm making some progress on installing a Pontiac 3.1 V6 in a 782. Nice fit. Look at those D ports! Aluminum heads, splayed valves. Nothing is too good for this 782!

 

[drohacek]

I cut the plenum and manifold to fit around the distributor but was also thinking that 6 downdraft carbs from the old 18 Briggs twins would look great sitting atop the manifold with Hilborn type stack sticking through the hood

 

[drohacek]

I have a tech question for the electronic experts. The 3.1 had no distributor and ran off a crank trigger and computer directly to a coil pack. Wanting to simplify things I did away the computer and found a distributor and coil from an old 2.8 S10. One thing nice about the way GM drives the oil pump was to use the stub shaft on the left in the picture so putting in a distributor is a piece of cake.....sorta. I had to turn the manifold 180 degrees and cut out a section of the number 6 runner. To compensate for the loss of flow, while I had a hole in the runner, I openned up a one inch hole into the neighboring runner to allow some additional flow. Anyway my problem now is trying to figure out if I can put 12 volts to this distributor somewhere and run the engine without a computer. Any ideas? One of the wires has got to be it.

 

[drohacek]

It appears that I will need an earlier model distributor. One that has only two leads and a vacuum advance instead of the 4 wire plug. 1983-84 S-10 I presume. Oh well back to the bone yard.

 

[aschmidt]

Been up to no good again. Besides building woodstoves / boilers (see the sandbox section - burning wood) I got a johnson loader last month and stuck it on an older 782. Was soooo happy with the way it worked out that I decided that i needed a set of forks for it, but that takes too much time to change the attachments.... unless you have a quick attach system like the skid loaders have. here is what i came up with. Work in progress. This project is going to require a lot of sand blasting and new red paint when it is done. Actually thinking of powder coating the whole tractor this time and see how it comes out.
Here are some pics...

This is a shot of the full width quick attach plate that will go on the bucket.

Will be an attachment for loading logs 4' long into my wood stove.

 

[jmdaugherty]

Aaron, That quick attach system is a great idea. I'm sure that you will come up with another item or two put on the front of that loader.

 

[aschmidt]

Well got another attachment for the johnson loader almost done. This should work good when clearing the woods with all the little prickly ash and small dead fall. havent got the hydraulics hooked up, but putting on a 3 spool valve and will have aux. ports on the loader. Also needed a little rear ballast weight. Box has 400 lbs in it and 180 lbs in each tire. Gets really good traction. Merry Christmas and New year to everyone. See you in 2010~ Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks

 

[jmburge]

Aaron
looks like that would be very handy for hauling logs and doing demolition work. Do you ever plan on building complete loaders for Cubs?

 

[aschmidt]

You know Jason, the thought has crossed my mind quite a few times now. After having one to work with, learning about the dynamics of it and looking at things that I would improve on as a user, I might put my own cost effective design together. Wont be tomorrow that is for sure. Merry Christmas Everyone and stay safe!