Archive through September 08, 2011

[dtanner]

Rich Trevains

I bet Wayne will be taking his apart to check the plates as well. Let us know if that solves your (no Go ).

I was running some diesel this am putting away the last of my wood from acrost the street. What a mess.

I thought I would put the blade on the 149 and push this mess down over the bank

but then well I have not used my loader in three months. it fired right up and did the job.

I called again about the mess of hyd lines and he said soon .what a pain have such a mess. oh well Loader are COOL .

 

[mtouesnard]

I would like to know if any company makes fenders for the 70 / 100 Cub Cadet. I am looking around the internet but can't seem to find any. I apologize in advance if I have this posted in the wrong spot. It's my first post!

 

[grbooker]

thanks for the info craig c. what color is the engage pedal on yours? mine was red.

 

[dtanner]

Marc Touesnard

welcome to the best IH site around. the fender don`t show up much for sale but I would try a few of the pretty cards above and see if they have a set for sale. I do like the way they look on my 100.

 

[dtanner]

robert booker

Both Original decks I have here the engagement lever on the deck are white.

 

[rtrevains]

Got Forward got reverse woo hoo it was the valve plates being in the wrong position woohoo. Also fill the reservior up to top of suction tube before putting hydro back on. I missed that before in the manual and it say important. Thanks Guys

 

[pbell]

Craig, Kraig, Robert B.
If I am not mistaken, the unrestored Original deck pictures that Kraig posted, are of an Original I once owned. If so, that was a 63 model, originally sold by IH dealer Ohio Valley Truck & Tractor CO., Inc, New Albany, IN, 6-15-63, for $665.00 including mower, lug tires, spray can of touch up paint, and a Cadet cap. If memory serves me right, the "O" deck went from all white to white and yellow about the same time the pulley support, pulley shields, and spindles were changed (1962). That tractor went to a collector in WI, several years ago.

 

[kweaver]

Rich - Didn't I ask IF there were any parts that could be installed backwards and yet still go back together not letting it build up pressure ?

DonT - Looks like you pushed over a lot of burnable wood there !
You shouldn't waste it , that stuff doesn't grow on trees you know !

Brian - You ever going to paint that hood ?

Richard C - Been wondering where you've been , long time no post.
I hope your Hydro R&R has plenty of cardboard notes

 

[ccarney]

Robert Booker -

All the pedals on my original decks have been white. That said, i've come across numerous factory replacement parts that were painted harvester red from IH, even for cadet parts that obviously should have been yellow. It is possible your cast pedal was a replacement, if it didn't just become red by someone's choice.

 

[rtrevains]

ken
Yes you did and Thank you all.

 

[tpennell]

Here is a pic of the deck from my 61. I do not believe it has been altered or touched up. Hope this helps. Tim P.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Rich T. First of all I am happy that you finally got your Cub Cadet running. Now for some educational guidance... Remember the second part of your post @ Friday, September 09, 2011 - 11:34 am... " Also fill the reservior up to top of suction tube before putting hydro back on. I missed that before in the manual and it say important."

Okay.... Remember how I STRESSED studying the manual? That very manual used to be at the bottom of each of my posts to help guide those having troubles with their hydros. It seemed on one paid attention to it... sooo. I dropped it.

NOW a little about the "Gee my valve plates were on the wrong area."... Well as Rocky used to say to Bullwinkle...."That trick never works." I have news for you. I know from firsthand experience and as others have told me that even if you have the wrong rotation valve plate installed the system will still function. With different valve plates due to their timing orientation performance may be affected. However this isn't the case here. Those little fishtails are to help create a smoother transition of oil flow. What does happen if you have the wrong valve plate on the the pump and the motor is the pump and motor are noisier even if just by a little bit. It is more than likely the reason that your pump didn't function is that you didn't study and follow the manual until it was stressed over and over for you to do so. It helped following the manual, didn't it? You didn't have the pump properly primed.

Now... you may ask... how do I know so darned little about these pumps? Re-read some of my previous posts of the past day or so and you will see one where I have a link to the types of hydrostatic pumps that I now assemble. I've also assembled the 15Us n the past for a short while. I just don't brag about it.

 

[kadams]

I think I figured the tweaked deck problem out on my own. I couldn't see a good way to clamp the deck shell to the top of my steel bench to keep it true while patching up the holes and dents, but I have some new 1.25" square steel floating around, and I can use it to build a true, temporary brace on the bench, and then tack the deck to it for the duration of repairs.

Problem solved? Maybe. I'll know more once I start cutting out rust, but I think it should turn out fairly straight.

I'm curious if anyone has ever stitched a length of angle between the two rear quick attach points to help keep the deck stiff. I have seen it suggested to weld down a piece of 1/8" bar stock between them, but a piece of angle seems like it would solve the bolt tear-out issue while lending more stiffness to the assembly.

 

[sblunier]

Keith A,

Don't worry about the shell of the deck, worry about where the bearings mount to the deck. The shell can be 1" high/low/left/right/twisted, but the spindles must be mounted in the same plane.

Make all of your repairs as best you can, strengthening with plate, angle, whatever (make sure the angle clears all of the attachment points, belts, etc.)......

THEN......

Get out your straight edge and your BFH and a couple of 2x4 blocks for cribbing and proceed to "encourage" the deck skin with the hammer so that all three blade tips run level tip to tip, fore and aft, and side to side, etc. Use spacers under the spindle housings, spacers under the blades, swings from the BFH, etc. to make it happen.......

Then, make sure your gauge wheels are "close enough" (plus or minus 1/4"-1/2")

Hang the deck off of the subframe and adjust the subframe/hangers so that the BLADES run level (check the tire pressure first, make sure it's set where you will mow) at your desired cutting height....this is CRITICAL to good performance.

Then.....

Adjust the gauge wheels so they are about 1/2" off of the concrete.

This creates a "semi-floating deck" that will hange under the tractor on the subframe to keep it from getting beat up and drug all over, yet the gauge wheels will ride in the "thatch" of the lawn and immediately respond to contour changes (with out the destruction that comes from putting the deck weight on them).

If you have a spring assist, tighten it up until the weight of the deck is 85% on the spring. This will make the deck much more responsive and keep the subframe linkage under load to keep it consistant.

I have given this advice to others here before and have set up many decks this way...it works, and it is one of the best methods out there for making the older Cub Cadet decks cut with that "golf course fairway" quality.

Best of luck on your deck work, with patience and an eye for detail, you can get it cutting dead level and doing it's best!!!

 

[dross]

Kieth, I straightened out the cast end deck on my 72. Blocked it under the front of a chevy pick-up truck frame and used a bottle jack where it was bent.

 

[rchristensen]

Marlin H. I don't think I agree with you on the problem with Rich T's hydro being the priming. I'm more inclinded to believe it was the valve plates installed wrong. The manual clearly states that they cannot be interchanged.

I've never heard of anybody installing them wrong and only having a noise problem. I know people have put them together and not primed them and they have worked. Not a good idea as you could damage something before they prime themselves.

You may be right, I've never put one together wrong and doubt I would want to do it to prove it but I'm still betting on the plates being the problem with Rich T's hydro.

 

[rbedell]

Marlin:

Here is what is stated in the IH Service Manual for the Wide Frame Tractors on page 2-47.

Thus, there is a difference in the Valve Plates and it does make a difference.

It has been a while since I have had a Sundstrand opened up, but IIRC, the valves have a different "cut" and machining to each, making them different.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good Morning, All.

Now a little more about the valve plate thingy AND their markings. OKay.... here are some interesting FACTS.... How many of you have helped assembled between forty to fifty thousand hydrostatic pumps? (I stopped counting after that...) Raise your hands.

.... I see a LOT of hands have done this... THAT shows me the tremendous amount of both training and understanding that they have gone through such as I have. Okay.... Now let's continue with SHOP CLASS 101 here...

Those markings on the valve plate... a.k.a. you all know the little ones... They are called fishtails and help with determing TWO things on a valve plate. ONE is to help determine correct ROTATION. The OTHER is to help ensure as I've stated so many times previously a smoother transition or flow of oil and thus not so jerky of a startup of motion. SOME valve plates actually have TWO fishtails and those like what are on the motor are BI-DIRECTIONAL valeplates. Is anyone getting this so far?

Now of course COMMON SENSE will inform anyone that a MANUAL will definintely state to be sure to correctly install the valve plates. If it wasn't important then they wouldn't do such a thing. Is the manual going to go into great depth and explain the hows and whys you should or do something? Well, I've yet to find a manaul that will do such a thing. Remember.... again.... and you can ask ANY engineer familar with hydraulic and hydrostatic systems what I've stated about getting them in the wrong area and they will still work only their will be slightly more noise and on a good test stand it will show up on the test readings. The noise is sometimes hard to hear when pumps get older and have more wear on them. Or it is because the pump had a whine to begin with and the person never paid any attention to the sound it made before.

Right now I sure am wondering why I even try to help someone anymore. Like I've stated before and this will be the stinking last time.... I build hydrostatics for a ilving. How many of you guys do the same thing? I speak from experience and training. From now on when someone has troubles I am going to sit back and just watch. I'm NOT upset... just tremndously diasppointed with you guys. The most common thing that I've found when someone e:mails me privately is they haven't read and studied the manual. Now you don't even want ot believe me when I speak with upfront personal knowledge. I repsectfully Thank You for letting me know of your personal great wisdom and knowledge. From now on I'll let everyone else step up to the plate. When I try to help I have to think that this person that has disassembled the pump at least has some mechanical ability or they woudn't have taken the pump apart in the first place. .... and then I think back to one of my brothers. He could take it apart only coudlnt' always get it back together correctly. (<font size="-2">My Dad used to love that with him,</font>)

The next time that I see someone post that their hydro will move in one direction and NOT the other... I will laugh my butt of when someone tells them to rebuild the charge pump.

Off to have some Cub Cadet time after tuning up the Dakota. Everyone have a fun filled weekend.

 

[kweaver]

Marlin - My 2082 wont go forwa ... wait a minute I forgot to go start it ...

Hey I like reading your wisdom , heck someday I may get brave enough to actually take one apart and then where would I be without your <strike>preaching</strike> teachings ?

I do have 2 loose U15s that need taken apart to be cleaned as they've sat around for years in the shop collecting dust with the output exposed.

Tune all ya want ... it'll still be a Dudge

 

[rtrevains]

Geez didnt mean to offend anyone and stir up a hornets nest. Guess I will stop asking questions.

. But I am by no means unable to study manuals. Shoot I have been flying commercial airliners for 25 years. Sorry if I offended anyone but I shall move on. Thanks to all that helped.