Archive through September 06, 2015

[wshytle]

Nathan, Allen-

I had problems with an electric lift a couple of years ago and just sent it to Charlie to fix. The cost was very reasonable and I didn't have to mess with it at all. I'm assuming he still offers his services.

Just a thought...

.

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
And it still works!

 

[digger]

I hope the jerk that did this had to have stitches at least once because of it!

 

[rneubauer]

Charlie, I have a quietline hood you can have for free to replace that 82 series wannabe hood. Unfortunately shipping from Ohio will be expensive!

 

[jbaker]

using Charlies picture,
I read somewhere that these two rectangular spots in the circles were originaly going to have black sticker with silver outline placed there.
Any one ever seen one?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeff B. Yepper. The hood on Angel's 129 has those on it. They look like the hood has openings for air flow.

Charlie P. I hope that he had to have a lot of stitches.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[jbaker]

Happy and Safe Labor Day to all

 

[rbeem]

Jeff,

Looks like that one has the NASCAR fast fueling option too!

I've had at least one tractor that had remnants of that decal.

 

[jbkrupar]

Working on the 149 - what is the secret to removing the flywheel? I am using a basic flywheel puller but will not budge.

 

[wshytle]

Is this appropriate enough for Labor Day????

One is loaded to split and the other takes it to the wood shed.

The log covered with the black plastic is suppose to become a beam or a mantle. It's from last year and should make a nice mantle for someone. The trailer behind Bull, (108/128) was made by Gravely and is rated at 1000 lbs with a 1" axle. This is also the first time the 149 was used for processing firewood. Both are running like a sewing machine.

I realize this could have been posted in the sandbox but there are "two" many cubs in the photos.

.

 

[jpatchett]

James K.

I use a harmonic balancer puller and an impact air gun. The impact gun helps break loose the flywheel from the crank.

Applying some heat to the flywheel around the crank shaft hole with a propane torch can help. The flywheel will sink a lot of the heat so this will take several minutes.

There are other methods but results may not be favorable.

This is a great instruction: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/flywheel.htm

Jim

 

[nbextermueller]

James, a good penetrating oil and a hammer. Spray the flywheel nut and crankshaft area real good. Let it sit 10-15 minutes. Then put in the puller on. Once it's as tight as you care to make it, hit the end of the threaded shaft with a hammer real good 5-6 times. Turn the puller another 1/4 turn. And hit it with the hammer again. Keep doing that til ya think you might strip the threads. Then let it sit. 10-15 more minutes. Then more spray, more hammer, another slight turn.

It's the hammer that will "break" it loose. If it just won't pop, release the puller, spray it up and let it sit over night. Then repeat.

Then of course report back here and let us know what happens.

 

[jstertz]

Wayne S--I love it! I was too busy sweating to death in this central Wisconsin sweat box today! However, I too had the little yellow and white tractors working. I was cleaning the old willow deadfall up along my property line. I had the 782 out along with the 125 Cub-Z attached to the 59M shedder. It turned those small branches into perfect bedding mulch. I had the big Haban on the 1772 cleaning up the tall grass and making everything purdy! I like those two beasts of burden that you have, working hard to presumably help heat your home in a few months...

Thanks for the photos!

 

[wshytle]

Joshua-

I think it would be nice to have a couple of trailer queens but don't know what I'd do with them "between shows". In other words, what I have I expect to work if it's running. Plus it's what I enjoy about having them...just seeing what they will do. I have a couple for the garden and a couple of mowing units and Bull is always there to help in a pinch. If I were to get everything running good all at once I think I might get bored so I'm always working on another one for some chore. My ultimate plan has always been to dedicate tractors, like the 1650 with the 1A tiller, to do one job mainly because I'm too lazy to be changing out implements. I also have a 59M and it is to go on the 147 since I don't really care for the electric lifts. It's not that I need it because I also have a Mighty Mac and a Kemp and both have the chipper unlike the 59M. I do like the idea of driving the machine right up to the job and the extra horses to boot. I use a lot of mulch for plant beds, etc. and any extra goes right in the garden.

It wasn't that hot here today but the humidity was terrible. I was sweating like a mule. It won't be long before the hot weather sounds pretty good though. Being from the south my entire life I have to go for the heat instead of the cold.

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[tbdavis]

Curious if anyone knows for sure which clutch cover the 123 came with - perforated or solid. Seen both but no idea which is correct. Thanks

 

[digger]

Terry D.
All the pics I've seen in manuals and brochures and even a couple new ones have been solid.
I don't know where and why the vented one's came into the picture, but I'm bettin someone here does.

 

[kmcconaughey]

From what I have observed over the years with actual tractors and in brochure photos is the vented shield showed up with the 1x4/5 series. As to why, I'd bet it was to increase cooling of the hydro transmission. There is a fan on the Hydrostatic Cub Cadet's drive shaft, so for better air low they added the vented/mesh shield.

EDIT: It would also increase airflow for engine cooling as the shield also partially encloses the area around the engine flywheel air inlet...

 

[tbdavis]

Thanks fellas for the feedback on the clutch cover. Makes sense as for hydro cooling but just to keep it half way correct I'll go with a solid cover on the 123.

 

[nwerstler]

Allen, and Wayne, Thanks for the input and if it gets that far might do that but think I may have found part of the problem. So putting it back together after thinking i had it fixed i broke the brushes no prob i see i can buy then off here, but i need the springs behind the electric lift brushes. now those i have not seen anywhere in a Cadet parts site. Anyone know a good replacement, or where to get them? Thanks