Archive through September 06, 2006

[jwalker]

Morning All, new guy here with a quick (and probably dumb) question. I just got a Cub Original Serial # 24719 but can't seem to look up parts for it. Everywhere I check they want a model # if I put in Original it spits it out, what am I doing wrong?
Thanks Joe

 

[rbedell]

Joe:

First, welcome to the Forum.....

In the online Parts Searches, use: "Cub Cadet" for the Original Model.

 

[troddick]

Joe, Use Cub Cadet in the Model Name/Number field.

 

[jwalker]

Thanks Guys I'm sure I'll be posting back soon!

Joe

 

[bmcmeen]

"Original" is a name that the forum gave it long ago, it's not the official <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> name. As folks have already stated, it was just called the Cub Cadet.

 

[ehall]

Hello everyone.
My K161 in my model 71 seized a rod bering and broke the rod. I have been looking to fix or replace this engine and have just recently bought, but not picked up, a 107 with tiller. I am not sure I like the hydrostatic transaxel. Could I put the engine and tiller on the 71? Would it be wise? My 71 does not have a creeper gear. I could offer the remaing 107 as a trade for a NF creeper gear.

 

[jschrage]

Jerry, Kraig

Thanks for the help with the implement clutch on the 149. Jerry what you described looks to me like how it should work. Now that you've confirmed how I thought it should work, I'll take another crack at getting it working.

Deck is all rebuilt, tractor is running, just need to get the two of them working together. Then I've got to get the snowblower working before it snows.

 

[digger]

Well it's official now, 100 new members in less than 30 days!
THANKS GUYS

 

[bmcmeen]

Couple'a changes this morning. The IH Cub Cadet Plow Day topic is now the Plow Day and Tractor Show announcements topic.

I also opened up a PD12 subtopic there.

There are also two subtopics in there - one to post announcements of other plow days and one to announce tractor shows.

 

[jpierson]

Funny, I had always thought the name "Original" was the actual name. So it's called just "Cub Cadet", never knew that. I learned something new today.

 

[jluckey]

You will also see the "Original" listed here as CCO. When we started using that several years ago, some people had a real fit. I thought it was a good fit, all the other models had a 3 or 4 number model name and I was getting tired writing "Cub Cadet Original" all the time.
)

Charlie and Bryan-- Great to hear about all the new members. It seems like the postings are way up as well.

J

 

[bbranstetter]

To All

Last week I posted my ignition issue for my 122, no spark. Long story short I have voltage clear through the points, the points show less than 1 ohm resistance when closed and wire from the coil to the points is good. After probing with the test light I noticed that I got a good spark at the plug when I probed from ground to the negitive terminal of the coil (and points open). Would this idicate that the codenser is to blame? This is my best guess to date, any opinions out there??

 

[rbedell]

Brian B:

Here is a simplified Ignition Diagram to help troubleshoot your ignition situation:

 

[bshepherd]

Does anyone have pictures of how to work on the crank pulley on a cub 109. I got the belt pully off.

 

[bbranstetter]

Roland,

Thanks for the info. I'll keep worken at it.

Brian.

 

[dandre]

Brian B., it could be the condensor, but if you get spark when you probe the - side of the coil, it indicates the points aren't closeing. The 1 ohm resistance may be resistance back through the coil if you had everything hooked up when you checked the resistance of the points. I usually check for spark by bumping the engine around until the points close and then manually open them. It should spark every time they open. If no spark, then, with the points open, momentairly short the - side of the coil to ground and see if you get spark.

 

[dkirk]

Brian B.,

The fact that you get spark when bypassing points with a jumper indicates the condenser is good (it's still in the circuit). Problem lies either in the wire leading from coil (-) primary post to points, or the points themselves. I suggest removing the points entirely and install a new set. Second best is to remove, use fine emery cloth to dress the contacts down until shiney, clean with laquer thinner, reinstall, and gap to .020. This should restore your spark.

 

[gerickson]

Quote" I'm not sure I like the hydrostatic transaxle." I like this guy. Stick with the geardrive baby! Won't catch me on a whining Hydro.

 

[dtotzke]

I just came in from the garage. I built up the slot that holds the coil springs on the arm of the hydro (and installed new springs). What a difference!!! Mowing will be much more pleasant now. Thanks to members for posting pictures and repair tips and ideas.

Thanks again, Dave

 

[digger]

Excuse the interuption here, BUT.

I need Hydro Harry and McGiver to email me ASAP.