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Archive through September 04, 2011
- Thread starter crlamb
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Andrew S.
Take the steering wheel off, unhook the gauges, unhook the throttle and choke cables at the engine and the dash will slide right up and off.
Take the steering wheel off, unhook the gauges, unhook the throttle and choke cables at the engine and the dash will slide right up and off.
astrawderman
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- Joined
- Aug 24, 2011
- Messages
- 72
- displayname
- Andrew Strawderman
Thanks
mpatterson
Well-known member
William,
SWEEEEEEET!
I like that trailer, it looks great! Nice size for behind the Cubs. The Ags also look great too. Lucky to have that #4, I bet it will haul a heck of a load of wood or rock? Yes, I agree, you are lucky to have the "Painter" in the family. He does nice look'n work too. I am jellous. So when you going to share them other Cubs with us?
SWEEEEEEET!
I like that trailer, it looks great! Nice size for behind the Cubs. The Ags also look great too. Lucky to have that #4, I bet it will haul a heck of a load of wood or rock? Yes, I agree, you are lucky to have the "Painter" in the family. He does nice look'n work too. I am jellous. So when you going to share them other Cubs with us?
sblunier
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- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Rich,
Does it have a Cub Cadet brand filter? It MUST be a hydraulic filter designed for the SUCTION side of the pump. Using a Fram PH16 just bacause it fits is always a bad idea.
Have you checked the charge pump relief valve to see in the spring is broken or the seat blocked open? A broken spring will "dump" all of your charge pressure, not allowing oil under pressure to flow into the pump.
Did you have the rear axles out? Any chance you don;t have one installed all the way and it's just spinning the ring gear on an open differential?
You 100% verified that the stib shaft on the BACK of the unit turns with the driveshaft?
You 100% verified that the drive pin in the charge pump (actually on the gearotor pump, under the housing) is intact and driving the pump?
Just some things to follow up on.....
Does it have a Cub Cadet brand filter? It MUST be a hydraulic filter designed for the SUCTION side of the pump. Using a Fram PH16 just bacause it fits is always a bad idea.
Have you checked the charge pump relief valve to see in the spring is broken or the seat blocked open? A broken spring will "dump" all of your charge pressure, not allowing oil under pressure to flow into the pump.
Did you have the rear axles out? Any chance you don;t have one installed all the way and it's just spinning the ring gear on an open differential?
You 100% verified that the stib shaft on the BACK of the unit turns with the driveshaft?
You 100% verified that the drive pin in the charge pump (actually on the gearotor pump, under the housing) is intact and driving the pump?
Just some things to follow up on.....
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Rich T. Steve B. is giving some excellent feedback. Thanks Steve!
Steve B. I love your tag line about plowing. It is so very true.
(We need to find some ground for a Spring Plow Day next year. So.... Everyone start asking around.)
Steve B. I love your tag line about plowing. It is so very true.
(We need to find some ground for a Spring Plow Day next year. So.... Everyone start asking around.)
Rich-
I made out by covering the 1250, still not working, and starting on a 1650. I should have it finished up and running bt tomorrow evening weather permitting. I plan on getting back on the 1250 but I got ticked at it after splitting it twice and still not working.
Steve, Don, and Marlin have some great advice and are willing to help a lot. Hang in there and when you have found your problem please post the results...it may be my problem as well.
Good luck!
I made out by covering the 1250, still not working, and starting on a 1650. I should have it finished up and running bt tomorrow evening weather permitting. I plan on getting back on the 1250 but I got ticked at it after splitting it twice and still not working.
Steve, Don, and Marlin have some great advice and are willing to help a lot. Hang in there and when you have found your problem please post the results...it may be my problem as well.
Good luck!
jstertz
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2009
- Messages
- 808
- displayname
- joshua donald stertz
Ken-
Thanks for the input on the coil/ points situation. I put a new coil on and I was back in business. As it turns out, the coil on the tractor (that the PO had installed) had a little sticker on the side toward the engine that said something like, "use with external resistor" which I'm pretty sure it didn't have. The points are operational but aren't in good shape. I'll be putting in a new set of those soon. However my son was happy to be driving again! Thanks
Thanks for the input on the coil/ points situation. I put a new coil on and I was back in business. As it turns out, the coil on the tractor (that the PO had installed) had a little sticker on the side toward the engine that said something like, "use with external resistor" which I'm pretty sure it didn't have. The points are operational but aren't in good shape. I'll be putting in a new set of those soon. However my son was happy to be driving again! Thanks
Richard S.
You can find your answer here,
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
11. What are the K-Series - Single Cylinder Engine Specifications & Tolerances?
You can find your answer here,
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
11. What are the K-Series - Single Cylinder Engine Specifications & Tolerances?
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Rich T. Have you literally verified the things that Steve B. posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 08:45 pm:. Just doing the simple things doesn't cut it. Also you were not just priming the check valves you should have been priming the entire pump and motor system.
I'm going to state something here and I don't want anyone getting offended. First of all. If you ask for help and someone makes suggestions as to what to try then for gosh sakes PLEASE have and show enough respect to try those suggestions. If we ask for further details the please provide more details. DON'T skirt around things and just try the simple stuff. The more information you provide us the better we can answer/help you. I've said this countless times and I realize that we've many new members. We also have many lurkers that read the posts and never post or ask until they've a question. I understand that also. For pete sakes.... the 15U isn't a complicated piece of equipment. None of us know the other's mechanical skills so we try to help and too many times we can only assume those asking for help understand what we are conveying in our reply. If you don't understand what we are talking about simply state that. However if you're going to come back with a post stating that you've only done a couple of checks and not verified the other suggestions.... Well... for me to put it mildly.... I will try my best to help however, I will only throw the ball to someone so many times. If they don't take a swing at it with the bat... I'm going to stop trying to provide assistance.
Summing up.... <u>Please</u> don't just say that you've done just one or two items suggested without letting us know that you've verified the rest of the suggestions. TIA!!!
I'm going to state something here and I don't want anyone getting offended. First of all. If you ask for help and someone makes suggestions as to what to try then for gosh sakes PLEASE have and show enough respect to try those suggestions. If we ask for further details the please provide more details. DON'T skirt around things and just try the simple stuff. The more information you provide us the better we can answer/help you. I've said this countless times and I realize that we've many new members. We also have many lurkers that read the posts and never post or ask until they've a question. I understand that also. For pete sakes.... the 15U isn't a complicated piece of equipment. None of us know the other's mechanical skills so we try to help and too many times we can only assume those asking for help understand what we are conveying in our reply. If you don't understand what we are talking about simply state that. However if you're going to come back with a post stating that you've only done a couple of checks and not verified the other suggestions.... Well... for me to put it mildly.... I will try my best to help however, I will only throw the ball to someone so many times. If they don't take a swing at it with the bat... I'm going to stop trying to provide assistance.
Summing up.... <u>Please</u> don't just say that you've done just one or two items suggested without letting us know that you've verified the rest of the suggestions. TIA!!!
My grandsons 241AQS - Serial #8003033, is undergoing the probable first rebuild and we have some questions.....new valves to be installed, do we need valve seats ? Cylinder to be bored to .30 oversize and new piston. What difference will connecting rod 1.50 or 1.49 or 1.48 make ? Do we need a points plunger ? Do we need Bearings ( it does not appear to have them now ), Valve Guides and Govenor Gear ? We are "new" at this and would appreciate your thoughts. By the way, we took it apart, but someone with more smarts than us will put it back together.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charles-
If you read the Kohler service manual, it will tell you the answers to most of the things you are asking. There is no 0.30 over piston...I assume you meant 0.030" over. 0.010" under connecting rods are available if the crank journal is out of spec and needs to be turned undersize. For the cost of the points plunger, you may as well replace it, along with the governor gear, cross shaft, and brass nut.
The engine certainly has bearings...if the are not loose and are clean and turn smoothly, they are probably fine. Once again, this and many other things are addressed in the service manual.
If you read the Kohler service manual, it will tell you the answers to most of the things you are asking. There is no 0.30 over piston...I assume you meant 0.030" over. 0.010" under connecting rods are available if the crank journal is out of spec and needs to be turned undersize. For the cost of the points plunger, you may as well replace it, along with the governor gear, cross shaft, and brass nut.
The engine certainly has bearings...if the are not loose and are clean and turn smoothly, they are probably fine. Once again, this and many other things are addressed in the service manual.
fcurrier
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Marlin: (Hi, Fancy!) Did you say -
? If so, I'd like to chime in here and say that we've got a generation coming up that may be computer literate but doesn't "like to" (can't) read. I'm 62 and old school - I want a book or service manual if you would to go by. Wayne, when you get that 1250 going again you're going to say "duh". Happens here daily!
