GEORGE C. - Sounds like your talking about the engine clutch, not the PTO clutch. Charlie's correct, use an anti-rattle spring on each pin. But my manuals doesn't show the right way to install them.
You have to unbolt your engine and slide it forward so the three driver pins disengage the friction disc. Then slide the springs on with the bent spring ends towards the back and slide the engine back and bolt it down. Then pull the hooked ends of the anti-rattle springs up over the edge of the friction disc. The centrifugal force of the running engine bends the ends off of the friction disc if the springs are outside of the friction disc and they will be "MIA" in about a minute of running.
RICK B. - I'm curious what weak spots you're talking about in GD CC rearends. I know about the diff bearing retaining caps, and the top sliding gear transmission shaft. Anything else? Granted I haven't been to a plow day with my 72 since the K321 replaced the K241, but I've never had ANY rearend problems with that tractor and it's pulled a LOT of stuff it shouldn't have in the 30 yrs I've had it. Now roll pins & drive shafts, YES, been thru several of each once I got rid of the K181 engine that was in it when I bought it.
I bought my Firestone 23-8.50 lug tires a month before PD #1 and have always run 2-3 sets of weights on that tractor, 70-80 pounds per tire. You'll run out of traction long before you break anything in the rearend unless you really abuse it. While breaking in my K321 I made two black marks 100 feet long 8-1/2 inches wide across my concrete driveway in 2nd gear with that 72. I almost had the F'stones Smoking! I was "pulling" a 7000# Farmall M.
You have to unbolt your engine and slide it forward so the three driver pins disengage the friction disc. Then slide the springs on with the bent spring ends towards the back and slide the engine back and bolt it down. Then pull the hooked ends of the anti-rattle springs up over the edge of the friction disc. The centrifugal force of the running engine bends the ends off of the friction disc if the springs are outside of the friction disc and they will be "MIA" in about a minute of running.
RICK B. - I'm curious what weak spots you're talking about in GD CC rearends. I know about the diff bearing retaining caps, and the top sliding gear transmission shaft. Anything else? Granted I haven't been to a plow day with my 72 since the K321 replaced the K241, but I've never had ANY rearend problems with that tractor and it's pulled a LOT of stuff it shouldn't have in the 30 yrs I've had it. Now roll pins & drive shafts, YES, been thru several of each once I got rid of the K181 engine that was in it when I bought it.
I bought my Firestone 23-8.50 lug tires a month before PD #1 and have always run 2-3 sets of weights on that tractor, 70-80 pounds per tire. You'll run out of traction long before you break anything in the rearend unless you really abuse it. While breaking in my K321 I made two black marks 100 feet long 8-1/2 inches wide across my concrete driveway in 2nd gear with that 72. I almost had the F'stones Smoking! I was "pulling" a 7000# Farmall M.