Archive through October 31, 2011

[rbeem]

T.G.
Correct, it's got a warmed over 321 / 14hp. Shaved head, undercut valves...etc...etc.
I purpose built the drive train as a plowing tractor, it's nearly a stock class puller.
It has a Midwest Super Cub 6-pin clutch set-up. Maybe overkill, but much tougher than stock and better manufacturing tolerances.

 

[dfrisk]

DON T. - I spent yesterday afternoon out in the shop and in front of the shop sand blasting a rear rim from my #1 snow mover. I was in a short sleeved shirt, except when blasting. 65 & sunny yesterday. Not worried about heat..... yet.

Anyhow, I'm now "Fluid-FREE", changing tubes in the rear tires on that FARMALL and blasting the old paint & rust off, repainting the rims and remounting the tires. The tire I did last spring had five, maybe ten gal. of fluid, this one had more like 35-40 gal. It was a little harder to lift into the truck to take to the tire shop. The tires have been on those rims for 40+ yrs, DAD & I mounted them in '69, maybe '70. Should have been an afternoon job but took a whole day each because of the fluid. The rims actually look better than I expected as far as rust pitting is concerned.

PAUL F. - Neat idea with the creeper used as a disconnect. I bet somebody has a broken creeper they'd make you a deal on!

TG WILIE - re: clutch for a K321... I have a warmed-over K321 about like Kevin's in my # 72. I had a heavy RED spring on a MWSC 3-pin clutch, billet pressure plates & alloy driveshaft. I TOTALLY trashed the throw-out bearing after only 150 operating hours this spring. Still have the bearing on the shop bench. It's welded together! I went back to the stock spring & T/O lever. I haven't run the tractor much since I replaced the T/O bearing but I don't think it will slip. I did have one plow day where I had the OLD clutch slip a little on me when I had the tired old K241 in the tractor, but I had to really lug the engine to get it to slip. For a working tractor I wouldn't stray too far from stock.

 

[czuck]

Does anyone have a source and part number for the fiber washer repair on the cub carburetor as mentioned in the faq section?

 

[rbeem]

T.G.
I recommend using the billet steel pressure plates in every gear drive. They are flatter and stiffer for less deflection under pressure. A better than stock 3-pin driver is also a big plus.
Dennis is right on the spring pressure being hard on throwout bearings. With a stock friction disk and the upgraded pressure plates you would be fine.
I run the Red spring though because I am using a kevlar friction disk and it requires the extra pressure.

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

I now have in-floor heat running.The water temp off the floor is 40 deg and after the heater at full flow is 54 deg. I don`t think it will take long for the heater to get the floor up to temp at this rate. I should have a 65 deg shop in a few hrs. I can now get at my tractors and get my 125 finished.I like the fact that when the pump circulates and then stops the power light goes out on the heater.

 

[dfrisk]

DON T. - Did you get your loader tractor 129 back from the hyd shop yet? We'll want pictures!

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

No I have to go up and see what they have done ! I have a friend that has prostate cancer and every day we go for Coffee and chat I will be there for him ! The 129 loader can Waite .This 4.5" thick floor has raised from 40 deg F to 52 deg temp in 35 minutes. It won`t be long till I can work out here.But I will be there for my friend . I will get my Cubs up to working shape some day.

 

[htrent]

Hopefully someone here has a clutch spring handy and not installed yet...
Would any of you guys be willing to measure and send me the id,od,and length of a stock narrow frame clutch spring or one of the red or yellow replacements?
My broken assembly is still in the frame and I have a 100 pound box full of leftover industrial hardware - mainly springs - that I'd like to try before ordering one.
Thanks in advance!

 

[dtanner]

hiliary trent

Good luck on your stash of springs, I don`t have all the numbers,but to match all the numbers to find a spring to replace a factory spring. Well you would need to know the wound length and spring size ( wire) and tinsel strength.

 

[htrent]

I realize that, but if I only had those dimensions as a start I could easily figure out how many pounds it took to fully compress one that I have using a press. I'm just interested in the full travel of the working dimensions and the space I'll have on the shaft to work with.

 

[dfrisk]

DON T. - You need more info than THAT to duplicate springs! I've tried to change suppliers on springs before, seems like EVERY spring maker has special conditions they make them in because they can duplicate the wire, the winds, the end configurations, and the spring rates WILL be different!

HILLARY - I have a NEW OEM spring, a used OEM spring, and my old RED spring out inthe shop. I'll grab them and measure them up for you. Be a couple hours till I can post again.

 

[gsmyth]

Several weeks ago the throttle spring on my 1450 broke. When I took off the air cleaner assembly to fit the spring found the old carburetor gasket split. I replaced the old gasket with a new at that time. Today I found the new gasket in the driveway. When I checked the air cleaner cover, I found all three 10 x 32 x ½ screws at the bottom. I thought that I Loctited them in but apparently not. Now I find that they are loose in their proper location. Only one holds well and the other two are wobbly. I’m hoping not to have to search out a new carburetor. Can I tap the screw locations to a different size? I have taps but not a bottoming tap. Do they make helicoils that size? Never done it before on a carburetor. Looking for suggestions how to make a fix so that I have three secure screws.

 

[dtanner]

Gary Smyth

With the choke rod so close to two screws I don`t think you can drill the holes bigger. But you could try replacing the two loose one`s with studs. Just add some good glue to the threads and put the breather in place so you have proper alignment. Then you can add a nut to those two after the glue sets. I bet a two part epoxy would hold. My .02

 

[mgoshorn]

Great forum with great discussions!

 

[dtanner]

Mike Goshorn

This place has some great minds.The best for IH Cub Cadet info. Welcome

 

[gcorzine]

how many anti rattle spring on the clutch on a 106 - my cub dealer says only one - but there are 3 pins for three spring

 

[digger]

George C.
3 pins, 3 springs.
Your dealer forgot to clean his glasses.

 

[gcorzine]

thanks - what i thought - probably why is is still rattling will replace 2 more springs

 

[twilie]

Rick, Dennis

Thanks for the info. Looks like I might have a few more parts to buy. I've got some new and good used parts so I think I'll put together a stock clutch and see if it will hold up before I start spending more money.

 

[rbeem]

T.G.
It's your tractor, do as you want. However, if your doing any ground engaging work with that 14 hp ahead of a gear drive I'd make a couple minor improvements.
If it's a parade queen, stock is fine.
If you REALLY intend to work it HARD, then there are some weak spots in the transmission that need improvements as well. (Save that for another discussion)
It's all how you are going to use it and your budget.
I throw the factory pressure plates in the garbage on every build. ($58 pair for billet)