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Archive through October 30, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Marlin, I believe that snowblower would be a model 450/451. That being said, they have a bolt that goes through the side of the frame at the very front that helps hold that heavy monster on there. Without some custom mods it isn't a hook on and go deal. The affore mentioned bolts interfere with the engine cradle on a QL. Not sure if anybody has done a mod to make one fit? Plus that snowblower should have a 5/8 pulley which would need to be changed as well.
 
Question for you 982 lovers. Is the B48G-GA-020 Onan 19.9 hp engine in a 982 the same engine as a Onan Performance 20? If not, is the Performance 20 a standard replacement for the original B48G-GA-020?
 
I think so the performer has solid state ignition instead of points my 982 has a replacement one like that in it.It has the carb that is not as adjustable as the older ones.
 
DON - A Taper-Loc pulley is a separate hub that has a taper on the outside and fits on the shaft. Then the pulley has a taper on the ID. The hub tightens up onto and into the bore of the pulley clamping the hub tightly to the shaft and normally pinches the key enough it won't come out. A Google search should be about to get you lots of info. Many many companies make them. The couple I've used I got from my local Farm & Fleet. Or any company that handles power transmissio supplies like Motion Industries here in the states can get you one, as well as McMaster & Grainger.

PAUL B. - I don't think Onan makes engines anymore, this page supports that thought, http://www.cumminsonan.com/engines/

It sounds like the Performer 20 is a newer design, maybe even OHV as opposed to flat head as the B48G was. That other brand of lawn mower that used lots and lots of Onan engines has people repowering the equipment with Honda, Briggs, or ??? engines. This link is my favorite, http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/RepowerItems.asp?Brand=Cub%20Cadet&Model=984 They borrowed the pic of MY 982 from Jonathan Lucky's website, and as you can see there's NO replacement engine for the 984, but the 982 has a pic of one of Aaron's CC's with a small car engine, think it's a 4.3L GM V6, and the comment is they want to make a kit using a 23 HP Briggs but they need somebody's tractor and about $1600 to develope the kit.

A Performer 20 could probably be made to fit with some work. But I'm not sure that engine would be any easier to find parts for than the B48G. If anything even happens to prevent my Onan from running any longer, I'd like to drop a 2-cyl air-cooled DUETZ diesel into my 982.
 
MIKE - The Performer 20 would be the model P220? If so then yes, that other co. switched to the P220 from the B48G, lots of parts interchange between the two.
 
DOn - Dennis has an excellent suggestion - I used a 5" B width taper lock pulley that weighs almost 7 pounds on the crank shaft of the V Twin Cushman I built. I Idle that thing around when crusing race tracks or fairgrounds and it's never moved.. Try WW Granger catalog .. Example bushing and pulley
 
Paul B - I don't know that the Onan Performance 20 is a direct replacement for the B48G-GA-020. I've got a couple of Wheelhorse tractors with the P220 engine (Performance 20) and they are a mighty fine engine - but they are gas guzzlers and parts are expensive. The big problem with these engines is valve seats coming loose. Most attribute this to overheating the engine from clogged cylinder air fins. Once the valve seats let go, it's almost impossible to get them back in to stay. Other repairs, like a broken rod, etc., seem doable - just expensive for parts. These engines are ultra smooth and have the most coolest sound I've ever heard in a small tractor engine. Parts are available from a variety of sources. There's only one engine I know of that has a worse wrap on it and that's the Kohler Triad engines used on the Simplicity Sovereign tractors. I'd take the Onan any day over them - but if my Onan's gave out, I'd probably repower with a single cylinder Kohler K or Magnum engine.
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I found the problem with the bearing. It was me the way I shimmed the wheel. These bearings have the inside race sticking out about .060 thousands and I had the shims rideing on this instead of the wheel. I'm still thinking about makeing a nylon or plastic bushing to go in between the bearings to help keep the up and down shock on the bearings to a minimum.
 
I had a set of the oem super hd bearings just like the ones Charlie posted, they lasted lest than a month of pulling a small wagon around on a weekly basis, the little ball bearings all crushed now it has the originals back in.
 
Lucas - you sure you had the "Super Heavy Duty" Charlie posted and not the just plain ole Heavy Duty??? The Super ones do look pretty substantial in the pic. The plain ole Heavy Duty looked like they are stamped and probably more intended for light duty lawn tractors that don't really carry any front weight (I wonder if they are the same one Charlie sells for use in the top of the steering column instead of the plastic bearing?).

Keith O - do you have the part number for the final bearings you are using???

This wheel bearing issue intrigues me - I've replaced many over my time (none in the last 10 years) and never used a stamped style. You can just about see before you install the stamped style that they wouldn't hold up on a CC unit. That Super HD bearing sure looks decent and should certainly last longer than 8 hours.
 

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