BEARINGS, I've been lookin arounf trying to find some myself.I know they got them above,but somtimes I like to search around,seein whats out there.Been looking for hd machined bearings,they can be exspensive,I dont wanna put stamped bearings on either.Ever since I been into this hobby,Every spring when I'm gettin my main mower ready for the season I pull the wheels ,predss the bearings out,remove the dust seal and soak em in gas/paint thinner whatever,I make sure all the grease is out,blow them off with compressed air,then take them over to the grinder witht he wire wheel on it and clean them up,clean the inside hubs out real good,repack em,press them back on,etc. I know it might be goin a lil to far,but I try to keep up on all the maintence on them.The guy on ebay selling those machined bearing," kinda do look like the stens I've seen others selling.I noticed hes lowered the price on them also. free shipping too. I've even pulled the spindals while I'm there just to clean them up and regrease them,How do you guys like them HD tie rods or the real heavy duys onesheim ends
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through October 30, 2012
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Ok Charlie - I'm still confused. Both of the listings have the same part numbers. The pretty picture in the listing for a "pair" identified as Heavy Duty, is not as pretty as the picture in the listing for a "set" which is identified as Super Heavy Duty. Are they the same bearings? Is a "set" 2 or 4 bearings? I'm confused and was hoping you'd clarify. I do admit the Super Heavy Duty bearing looks like what I always used.
Harry B.
I just checked and in the 587 times people have ordered them, there's not been one time where anyone was confused about what they bought, LOL
One says REPLACEMENT and has this pic,
The other says Cub Cadet OEM Super Heavy Duty, and has this pic,
I don't honestly see how you could be confused.
I just checked and in the 587 times people have ordered them, there's not been one time where anyone was confused about what they bought, LOL
One says REPLACEMENT and has this pic,
The other says Cub Cadet OEM Super Heavy Duty, and has this pic,
I don't honestly see how you could be confused.
Charlie, speaking of bearings, what about replacements for the H42 snow throwers? I've noticed one set, but all the other bearings and even the chains are listed for the QA series. I am assuming that they are not the same. Am I mistaken?
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Harry: You made me look at the CC Specialties web site. I would define a pair as quantity two (2) and a "set" as two pair, quantity (4); it appears that Charlie counts a "set" as a quantity of two (2).
Going by the pictures on Charlie's web site . . .
1. There are (2) listings for 3/4" bearings; (1) HD and (1) Super HD, each sold by the pair (which Charlie calls a "set"). The HD 3/4" bearings run less than $15 a pair, and the Super HD bearings run less than $30 a pair. So a whole "set" of HD 3/4" bearings (both wheels) would cost almost $30 plus shipping; and a whole "set" of Super HD 3/4" bearings (both wheels) would cost just over $50 plus shipping.
2. There is one (1) listing for the 1" bearings found in the later Quiet Lines and 82 Series, and they are listed as quantity one (1) each at over $15 for each one; so two of them will set you back over thirty dollars plus shipping; a full "set" for both wheels would run almost seventy dollars plus shipping. Charlie does not list a price for a "set" (pair) of these bearings, only a price each.
Please note, that I have rounded Charlie's prices UP to the nearest $5 or $10 mark.
Anyway, I find Charlie's web site to be fairly unequivocal: there are two types of 3/4" bearings available, but only one type of 1" bearings available --with the 1" being the most expensive.
The switch from 3/4" to 1" occurred during the production of the Quiet Line series, but Keith has given his interest in the 3/4" bearing, so he must have the earlier model.
Edit: Charlie said it quicker, shorter, and better.
Going by the pictures on Charlie's web site . . .
1. There are (2) listings for 3/4" bearings; (1) HD and (1) Super HD, each sold by the pair (which Charlie calls a "set"). The HD 3/4" bearings run less than $15 a pair, and the Super HD bearings run less than $30 a pair. So a whole "set" of HD 3/4" bearings (both wheels) would cost almost $30 plus shipping; and a whole "set" of Super HD 3/4" bearings (both wheels) would cost just over $50 plus shipping.
2. There is one (1) listing for the 1" bearings found in the later Quiet Lines and 82 Series, and they are listed as quantity one (1) each at over $15 for each one; so two of them will set you back over thirty dollars plus shipping; a full "set" for both wheels would run almost seventy dollars plus shipping. Charlie does not list a price for a "set" (pair) of these bearings, only a price each.
Please note, that I have rounded Charlie's prices UP to the nearest $5 or $10 mark.
Anyway, I find Charlie's web site to be fairly unequivocal: there are two types of 3/4" bearings available, but only one type of 1" bearings available --with the 1" being the most expensive.
The switch from 3/4" to 1" occurred during the production of the Quiet Line series, but Keith has given his interest in the 3/4" bearing, so he must have the earlier model.
Edit: Charlie said it quicker, shorter, and better.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I think this is too good not to share:
JackieO was "scheduled" to take the limelight this winter - then the 169 slithered in. 169 still on back burner, but if weather holds we'll know why the piston doesn't go up and down the way it should in the near future.
But, anyway, check these car dollies out. I'm pretty impressed. From ebay, from California, from China - BUT- $114 for the set of 4 including FedEx shipping. Rated at 1000# each, they have cast iron wheels, all on swivels.
Wayne: 149
JackieO was "scheduled" to take the limelight this winter - then the 169 slithered in. 169 still on back burner, but if weather holds we'll know why the piston doesn't go up and down the way it should in the near future.
But, anyway, check these car dollies out. I'm pretty impressed. From ebay, from California, from China - BUT- $114 for the set of 4 including FedEx shipping. Rated at 1000# each, they have cast iron wheels, all on swivels.
Wayne: 149
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Charlie and Jeremiah - well thanks for the explanation but I guess if I was buying a bearing I'd have to make a phone call.
Frank - if you use those dollies they'll certainly leave small lines on your grass.
Frank - if you use those dollies they'll certainly leave small lines on your grass.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Bill-
"I'm wondering if it is possible on these wheel assemblies to fill the cavity between the bearings and in doing so seal out potential water intrusion into the bearings. Even if you packed the hub with so much grease that it ozzed out around the axle shaft, it's not like over packing a bearing that is high speed and would fail due to - to much grease."
BINGO! That's exactly what I was thinking.
"I'm wondering if it is possible on these wheel assemblies to fill the cavity between the bearings and in doing so seal out potential water intrusion into the bearings. Even if you packed the hub with so much grease that it ozzed out around the axle shaft, it's not like over packing a bearing that is high speed and would fail due to - to much grease."
BINGO! That's exactly what I was thinking.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
That is a great idea Frank, I have to get me some of those for working on my Cubs. They would not have to set in the way when I was not working on them, I could push them aside. I know the tray I got for my nomad mc is slick because it allowed me to easily put it in the corner of my shop.
That is a great idea Frank, I have to get me some of those for working on my Cubs. They would not have to set in the way when I was not working on them, I could push them aside. I know the tray I got for my nomad mc is slick because it allowed me to easily put it in the corner of my shop.
Yeah them car dollies are pretty nice, they work good too! My buddies got 2 sets of em," 8 total "
I know we can spin his 78 3/4 4x4 chevy around in circles in his shop,plus the jeep. lol they def. come in handy when you need em.
Finally got around to cleanin & tearing that #30 carb apart.only took me a week! lol Actually everything but the choke shaft and the 90 barbed fitting,Once I sprayed it all down and soaked the crap off it,I mounted it upside down on a motor I messin with and soaked everything for a few days.Everything came off ,no swearing this time. lol I would like to switch out the fuel fitting on it,thinking that steel one needs to go,but its on there pretty good,dont wanna mess it up now.well see what happens,Happy Halloween
I know we can spin his 78 3/4 4x4 chevy around in circles in his shop,plus the jeep. lol they def. come in handy when you need em.
Finally got around to cleanin & tearing that #30 carb apart.only took me a week! lol Actually everything but the choke shaft and the 90 barbed fitting,Once I sprayed it all down and soaked the crap off it,I mounted it upside down on a motor I messin with and soaked everything for a few days.Everything came off ,no swearing this time. lol I would like to switch out the fuel fitting on it,thinking that steel one needs to go,but its on there pretty good,dont wanna mess it up now.well see what happens,Happy Halloween
balbrecht
Well-known member
Keith O,
I hear you on the wheel bearings. The last set I installed that came out of a Cub Cadet Corp bag disintigrated so bad after 8.5 hours of use that the wheels started to flop around. When I pulled the wheels off the tractor the little ball bearings came rolling out of the rim onto my floor. I replaced them with some from a CaseIH box and didn't have any more problems. I've bought a lot of them over the years and never had a problem with the CCC bearings until this last set.
I hear you on the wheel bearings. The last set I installed that came out of a Cub Cadet Corp bag disintigrated so bad after 8.5 hours of use that the wheels started to flop around. When I pulled the wheels off the tractor the little ball bearings came rolling out of the rim onto my floor. I replaced them with some from a CaseIH box and didn't have any more problems. I've bought a lot of them over the years and never had a problem with the CCC bearings until this last set.
Brian A.
Just so you'll know. Cub Cadet/MTD sells 3 variations of wheels bearings. From CRAP to really good. LOL
I'll post pics tomorrow, or later today now.
Just so you'll know. Cub Cadet/MTD sells 3 variations of wheels bearings. From CRAP to really good. LOL
I'll post pics tomorrow, or later today now.
JONATHAN SALATINO - The heim joint tie rod enda are the ONLY thing to run. I replaced my OEM ball joint tie rod ends with them back in 1985 and the same set of four is still in great shape, no looseness at all. I've got a box full of OEM joints Dad gave me but if I needed to replace a set of tie rod ends I'd get heim joints instead.
Far as the discussion of frt wheel bearings goes, I think if you put about two table spoons full of 90 weight gear oil in each frt wheel between the bearings they'd last a whole lot longer. Semi-trucks & trailers all switched to oil lubed spindle bearings about 30-40 yrs ago and wheel bearing problems stopped. Dad used to repack the frt wheel bearings in his '51 M every year because the M carried the mounted picker every fall, then carried the manure loader the rest of the year. In the spring it was typical to run through mud & water almost to the top of the frt wheels when doing chores. When he semi-retired the M 30 yrs ago he put about a cup of 90W gear oil inside each frt wheel and when I pulled the frt wheels off 6 yrs ago the bearings still looked like new. The grease/oil seals were totally shot, they're backwards from a normal grease seal, they fit tight to the spindle and rub against a machined bore in the wheel. I replaced the seals, added some grease and some more oil. The frt wheels on those old Farmalls are hollow, the oil accumulates in the inner space at the bottom of the wheel, and when it rolls the oil finds it's way into the bearings. The same idea holds true in the CC frt wheels. The oil may find it's way outside the bearings, but accumulated oil residue is a great paint protectant.
Back when SON & I raced R/C cars, wheel bearings were a BIG learning experience for us. Two types of seals. Mechanical or metal seals rolled freer, but allowed dirt, dust, & water into the bearings. Rubber seals kept the dirt out but had increased rolling resistance when new, but soon "broke-in" as the bearings ran. The mechanical sealed bearings wore out 2-3 times a season, the rubbber sealed bearings lasted several seasons.
Far as the discussion of frt wheel bearings goes, I think if you put about two table spoons full of 90 weight gear oil in each frt wheel between the bearings they'd last a whole lot longer. Semi-trucks & trailers all switched to oil lubed spindle bearings about 30-40 yrs ago and wheel bearing problems stopped. Dad used to repack the frt wheel bearings in his '51 M every year because the M carried the mounted picker every fall, then carried the manure loader the rest of the year. In the spring it was typical to run through mud & water almost to the top of the frt wheels when doing chores. When he semi-retired the M 30 yrs ago he put about a cup of 90W gear oil inside each frt wheel and when I pulled the frt wheels off 6 yrs ago the bearings still looked like new. The grease/oil seals were totally shot, they're backwards from a normal grease seal, they fit tight to the spindle and rub against a machined bore in the wheel. I replaced the seals, added some grease and some more oil. The frt wheels on those old Farmalls are hollow, the oil accumulates in the inner space at the bottom of the wheel, and when it rolls the oil finds it's way into the bearings. The same idea holds true in the CC frt wheels. The oil may find it's way outside the bearings, but accumulated oil residue is a great paint protectant.
Back when SON & I raced R/C cars, wheel bearings were a BIG learning experience for us. Two types of seals. Mechanical or metal seals rolled freer, but allowed dirt, dust, & water into the bearings. Rubber seals kept the dirt out but had increased rolling resistance when new, but soon "broke-in" as the bearings ran. The mechanical sealed bearings wore out 2-3 times a season, the rubbber sealed bearings lasted several seasons.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Okay... Quick question that's been asked a lot before and I can't remember the answer... A friend bought a 1250 and then found a snow blower from an 1811 and he wants to know how hard it is to mount the snowblower onto the 1250. TIA.
About wheel bearings... Almost forty years ago a gentleman informed me that there are basically three types of bearings. Low load, medium and high load capacity. Just my .02 cents.
Back to work so everyone have a wonderful autumn day.
About wheel bearings... Almost forty years ago a gentleman informed me that there are basically three types of bearings. Low load, medium and high load capacity. Just my .02 cents.
Back to work so everyone have a wonderful autumn day.
Ok I could use some ideas with my 129 loader . This is the 3rd time this PTO pulley has come off the pump shaft..I did lock tight the set screw and I`am that set screw had not backed off. I know why ,I have let the tractor idle with the pto engaged for the loader pump.I bet all the pulses it has more at low rpm`s are spitting the key out.
Would another set screw help ? Or never idle it with the PTO engaged .
Would another set screw help ? Or never idle it with the PTO engaged .
proessler
Well-known member
Donald T, is the pulley in perfect alignment with PTO pulley, horizontally & vertically ? That not being true ,it would tend to work itself off as you've experienced thrice. Is either pulley bent? A second set screw could be added perpendicular to the keyway...PWR
Paul W.Roessler
I used a laser on a tripod (because I have one) and measured from the pump face and the cub pto pulley. I had to add slots in the pump bracket on the frame of the 129. stopped all belt cross wear ,two years on this belt. The kit was great I got to build on the loader on a 129.It does need some tweaking to get it where it is dependable.I will get there .
I used a laser on a tripod (because I have one) and measured from the pump face and the cub pto pulley. I had to add slots in the pump bracket on the frame of the 129. stopped all belt cross wear ,two years on this belt. The kit was great I got to build on the loader on a 129.It does need some tweaking to get it where it is dependable.I will get there .
