Archive through October 30, 2012

[dtanner]

jeff l baker

I did not notice that collier.I spent a lot of time looking at the smoker lol. Nice shop and I do like the ladder (cool idea).

 

[thoffman]

Oh yes, there is a "pop cooler" out there at Mike's. BTDT!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike, WOW!

Awesome garage! Thanks for the photos.

 

[aaytay]

Nice garage Mike. Thanks for posting the pics...

 

[jbliler]

Don't think Ii will ever have a cub nice enough to park on that floor.

 

[kostendorf]

The front wheel bearings on my 1650 is a very bad design. Has anyone tried putting a bushing between the bearings before? .750 ID x 1.370 OD x 1.500 Long. Does anyone have any ideas on this?

 

[digger]

Keith O.
Bad design?
OEM heavy duty bearings last 20 to 30 years on average.

What or how would you hold the bushing in the hub?
But the OEM bearings and never have another issue!

From what I've seen over the years is, bearings fail because of poor maintenance, or lack there of!

 

[kostendorf]

I must have got some they forgot to harden then because they lasted one week and i'm not talking about cheap pressed together ones. They are heavy duty ones from IH.

 

[aaytay]

Keith-
You're not the first person I've heard mention the front wheel bearings now being sold are JUNK.

I do know they're PLENTY expensive as I just ordered a set for the 169 this summer. When mine arrived there was little to ZERO grease in them, so I made it a point to mash some grease in them before they were installed . Also, I filled the hub of the wheel between the bearings with grease with the thought that some of that may end up in the bearing over time.

I'm hoping that makes the difference...

 

[dfrisk]

I bought a new set of four frt wheel bearings for the 70 two years ago. Not sure if the old ones were the factory bearings or not, they may have been replaced once. But the new bearings are holding up O-K. I agree with Art they're expensive, think over $65 for the four of them. I remember when they used to be $3-$4 each.

The hardest thing I used to do to them was push or blow snow in the winter. I went through a set or two in about 10-12 yrs back when I put the QA-36 on the 72 every winter. The heavy weight and the snow melting and getting into the bearings killed them quick.

 

[kostendorf]

Well I just ordered 4 more machined bearings. I am not buying any more from IH. This tractor is used to cut grass and pull a wagon. Not like I have any down weight on the front end. Hope I get a good set this time.

 

[wwetmore]

Just finishing up my 1965 CC70 Every thing works fine but the starter/generator get rather warm after running several minutes. By warm I mean I can rest my hand on it (just) I might guess 115 degrees. Is this normal. Generator turns free, bearings are smooth}}

 

[kide]

William:
Check condition of the battery.... Starter Generators do run warm to hot especially when the tractor is first started, but how hard it's working is dependent on the condition of the battery.. Also, keep in mind that there's a lot of mass in that S/G and it will heat soak while cranking the motor, and then stay warm quite a while afterwards just from that. PS - 115 doesn't sound bad....

I think I can detect Keith O's issue - he's buying bearings from IH ?? If they're brand new, they probably lost all of the lubricant infused in the Oilight material while passing through the time portal......

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Now that idea of the bearings loosing their grease going through a time machine is just silly!

Really funny.... but also silly.

 

[digger]

Keith O.
If you ordered machined bearings from that jacka$$ on sleezebay, your going to get junk!
His so called machined bearings are sold by Stens and are made of some crappy soft material that will not last.
I put these on my 1450 that is worked harder than 70% of any tractor on here 8 years ago and they are still tight.

 

[wshytle]

Just finished all I'm doing for right now on this 149. It was a roller two weeks ago. The K321 I installed is tight and smoke free. I had to replace about a quart of Hytran and can't hear the rearend until she gets in a good strain. I still need to wire the headlights and replace some of those bearings that have been talked about today but I'm real pleased and can't wait to make her sweat a little.

The dowel in the rear lift is just something I stuck there in thinking about a small lift pole system. This engine had a homemade stack and I plan to just leave it but I do need to clean up and paint the muffler. Oh, this is the tractor that had the hole in the bore of the block. I paid $300 for the 149 roller (with a K-321AQS included along with the blown engine) and sold the son $125 worth of nf lift so I have $175 and an engine from another 149 invested. All I need now is a K-321A block...I have everything else for the engine. I will someday put the AQS in my 1450 if all goes well.

On to the next one.

 

[drglinski]

Yeah that's probably why the bearings from CC are 30+ dollars a piece...

 

[bjamison]

None of my business on these bearings - but...

There is/was another color tractor that changed their mower deck spindle bearings to sealed bearings, but kept the grease zerk. When this oddity was brought to their attention, they said that eventually even the sealed bearings would loose their seal. The purpose of the grease was to put grease on the bearings outer surface - to displace water.

I'm wondering if it is possible on these wheel assemblies to fill the cavity between the bearings and in doing so seal out potential water intrusion into the bearings. Even if you packed the hub with so much grease that it ozzed out around the axle shaft, it's not like over packing a bearing that is high speed and would fail due to - to much grease.

Just a thought...

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - hey you musta been hiding that unit. I'm not seeing any storm damage to it, course I guess you're up "on the Hill" anyway. Nice looking 149.

Daniel, Keith and Charlie -
1st, Daniel - I see a "set" of those bearings on the CC Specialties web site listed for $26, and the same part number as $13 for a pair. Charlie may need to clarify the quantity difference between a set and pair, but in either case ($6.50 each or $13.00 each) that's a whole lot less than the $30+ each you mention.
2nd - Keith, not sure who you mean when you said you went to IH for bearing. There are some cheap bearings out there for off topic lawn tractors that "will fit" but won't hold up to demands of a CC unit. You really need to get the original equipment part as Charlie posted in the pic.
Now, just to add to this, I believe Charlie eluded to maintenance on the wheel bearings. I'm not for certain but I believe the operator manual may actually recommend greasing the wheel bearings annually. I used to like to do that. Best to make sure they are good before you go tearing up a spindle and having to replace that as well. Also, I think at least one of the service manuals mentions a spec for lateral play. I always shimmed my spindle so the bearing didn't have much lateral play, but also no drag when you spin the wheel. I've had a few wheels where the bearings fit deeper and I must have had about 1/4" side to side play. Suggest you check the service manual and make sure you don't have to much lateral play, and add some shims as necessary. Otherwise if you have to much lateral play that bearing will likely just start to come out of the wheel and twist slightly on the spindle and then just wear out very quickly or even cut into the spindle and ruin it. Also, I assume you are aware that bearing is supposed to be a press fit into the wheel. If it just slides into your wheels you need to remove the bearing and pean the wheel a bit, so that bearing fits tight or at least really snug.

 

[digger]

Harry B.
I don't need to clarify anything. That's why there's pretty pictures to look at on the site.