Archive through October 28, 2008

[cormond]

The Cub Cadet 127 Hydro

Very fast moving tractor with the Hydrostatic transmission
I have found out if the Hydrostatic Fliud and filter are changed it makes a big difference The Hydro Static transmission work so much better in forward and reverse !

 

[cormond]

Cub Cadet 1250 Hydro I have to say it is Animal for Cutting Grass ! Very powerfull for just having a 12 hp Engine !

 

[jsdavis]

The rear of the 123

Where i beat the pivot pin out with the roll pin still in!

 

[jsdavis]

Its gettin there she will be better than new next year!!Id like to build a killer kohler like Kraigs! Don your a lucky man 2 O's Id like to have one some day and a 100!Sorry about 2 posts but im gettin into the swing of things again,with the pictures and all.Do you guys just sand blast before paint or clean with something also? You all have a great morning and day,
Jason

 

[cormond]

Cub Cadet 149 Hydro

I Have to say the Cub Cadet 149 hydro Is My favorite I have 3 Cub Cadet 149 hydro's

I love having the three point Hitch it is very handy to have

and after I changed the Rear main gasket, Hydrostatic Fluid and the Filter not only the Transmission works great The three point hitch works awsom it can pick me up using the Box Scaper i have hitched up right now

I will be updating the photo soon The first 149 Hydro I got is repainted soon I will have the other 2 all fixed up and painted !

 

[cormond]

I like this little guy he has saved my life with his little Heart I was on a hill on afternoon and it he was ruuning on very low RPM while the mowing blades were engaged and i knew not to stop due to the fact i am on a hill and it could been a serious desater !

 

[tteague]

kool shtuff don!

Jamie,Mathew,I just had a K321 rebuilt by a good shop,they did a great job on the engine.I now have bout 5 hours breakin run time on it and the gears are rattling.Now I have to git those stupid gears out myself...

 

[tteague]

Oh yeah,I also paid bout 300 buck for the studs,newly designed gears and new needle bearings.DO NOT put those gears back in there.

The only work I did with it was haul a little wood. I havent even cut grass with this engine yet and its rattlin pretty good.

 

[lhinds]

Timmie, Matthew,I just completed rebuilding my K341 for my 169 and i left the balance gears out. I can't tell a difference in the engine running except at slow idle. That is not enough to make a difference. I also have two K301 engines i have taken them out of. Be sure to get the shims and spacers off the shafts and leave the shafts in the block.

 

[lhinds]

Jim; The sponsors at the top of the page will get you anything you need for your cub cadet. And at a very reasonable price. Also ask about the steering upgrade kit, is well worth the money. Also the frequently asked questions section has some good info. on steering gears.

 

[dtanner]

Did someone say a 100 Cub lol. well i got 1 of those but po painted it with a brush. it looks good at a distance. I will have to paint it someday. Have a great Cub Day all. Just the best bunch of guys with the same infliction Cub Cub Cub lol

 

[dtanner]

jason davis (Jsdavis) I see your post with your K sitting on wood blocks. I would make a box ,its safer,1 little bump and it could cost you some $$$ with that engine falling on the deck. Just my .02 . But i`am old and not very steady so it might not happen to you! Later Don T

 

[jcoppage]

Thanks everyone for the help with the balance gears. When i pull it apart we will leave them out. The engine does not smoke at all even under a pull. I just don't want any noise when it goes back together. Do these motors have roller bearings on the crankshaft? Is there any other tricks that would be helpful to know? Thanks Jamie

 

[dfrisk]

JAIME - Kohlers use HUGE ball bearings to support the crankshaft. I've never heard of anyone having problems with them. The Kohler weak spot is the balance gears and the connecting rods. Rods are diecast alum. and the bearing on the big end is just a plated coating. And with the splash lubrication system the rod bore wears the crankshaft journal out of round, they get loose, then hot, and after enough run time they fail punching a hole in the side of the block about 50% of the time. Pistons have also been known to fail by cracking and breaking off the tops of the piston in the piston ring grooves.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Broken piston:

Not sure if it was the rod or the balance gears that went on this one as both were broken:

Same block pictured above after it was removed from the chassis and tore down for salvage.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kohler bearings:

 

[sgalante]

Kraig, A number of posts below, you made mention of Aaron using a chain instead of a rod on his homemade front blade. You said he wouldn't have any downforce with the chain. My question, is do you really "have" downforce even with the rod, or is your use of the term "downforce" just the fact that the blade won't kickup? I'd love to have actual downforce on my blade on my 1512 so I can rip-up/push some sod and dirt, but with the skid shoes, all I get is the blade riding on top of the dirt. Is there a way to fix that other than getting a loader?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Stephen, perhaps poor choice of words on my part. By down force I meant that the use of a ridged lift rod would make the blade less susceptible to riding up over the snow and would do a better job of scraping the snow. If you have a manual lift and a solid lift rod you can get a little bit of down force if you manually push the lift rod forward, BTDT.

BTW, Steve B. elaborated a little in a post yesterday and mentioned:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Those blades can and will kiss the grill housing when bucking piles, even with a rod...I'd use caution (and a solid rod) if it were mine.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[sstanton]

So I started to rewire the 106 and bought this new wire harness from that eekbay site and wouldnt ya know it its for a 70/100. I'm not too happy at this point but apparently I got took. The listing was for a 108, which is pretty close to a 106, well close enough. So I guess I'm not going to rewire after all, but had noticed a slight bend in clutch release pivot mount so I will fix that instead, for now till I can get the wiring thing resolved.

 

[dfrisk]

STEPHEN - I don't use a Cub Cadet and blade to push snow, I use a full size farm tractor that weighs about 7000 pounds with a loader and an 80 inch wide blade in place of the bucket. When I clear snow from My concrete driveway I carry the front wheels of that tractor up to a foot off the ground and steer with the rear wheel brakes. If there's as much as a foot print in the snow the blade will not clean the snow down to the concrete. So downforce only does so much good.
To remove dirt and grass You need some sort of a sharp cutting edge, and even with an SGT like Your 1512 I'd suggest something narrow, like a moldboard plow or maybe repeated passes with a disc harrow to get down thru the sod to bare ground. I know Charlie had to move quite a few yards of dirt several years ago to build His Cub shed and used His Cub Cadets. One with a plow, another with a tiller, and I think He had a loader tractor at that time too. A big skid steer loader with much more weight & horse power than a CC would be a much better tool if You have a lot of dirt to move. Cubbies work fine however with loose dirt, sand, gravel, etc.