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Archive through October 27, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Tony, yes it should be welded to the triangular piece. I just got done repairing mine as it had completely broken free and was allowing the triangular piece and the piece below it to contact the back of the blade itself. Im not sure how or why this happens but its the 2nd one ive repaired. My only guess is the po or po's were quite rough on it.
 
Common problem....all of the force fromt he blade hits that 3/4" pin.....and it eventually breaks free.

Re-weld and continue snow removal operations!
 
Steve... "Ramming Speed Syndrome" ......
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"Ramming Speed": Applying enough momentum to get the job done. Also known as: "Givn'er Hell"
 
That would make sense. I have a feeling mine was broken before I got it. Its in sad shape but does get the job done. It probably didnt help last winter hitting a patch of ice and possibly grazing the curb...
 
I would add to Steve's reweld comment - get it done by a pro, preferably with a high amperage TIG welder, to get maximum penetration of the pin. A lot of the broken weld problems are caused by a less than full factory weld....
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I agree gerry. Also make sure its welded back on straight up and down otherwise the blade wont sit flat on the ground.
 
Thanks all.

Paul R that is where I went before I asked...It seemed as though it was part of the triangkle assembly since there was now separate Call Out number on it. asking for reassurance before Replacing and welding with something less Pitted seemed like the right thing to do.
 
Half-A'ed factory welds are a BUNCH of it!!!! A good full penetration weld will have it right back in service.

I wouldn't get too worried about occassionally hitting the curb or some frozen snow with a blade...they can soak up a lot of punishment. Just don't lock them down solid, make sure they can trip, and get to moving that snow out of the way......
 
STEVE B. - OUCH... I never "welded" at IH, but I first hired into FARMALL's Welding dept.

In all the years of running CC's, I can't say I've EVER had a weld break... but I've had a couple parts break right next to a weld along the "heat effected zone".

Have to agree with NOT locking the blade so it doesn't trip. Locking the blade is a great way to do a "Face Plant" out on the hood when using the patented Blunier Ramming Speed method of snow removal. I've only pushed snow for a couple yrs with my frt blade on the CC 70, and didn't have a whole lot of weight on the back of the tractor, but the blade never tripped when it wasn't supposed to and always tripped when it needed to.

SON will be using the 70 w/rebuilt K241 with the blade to remove snow this winter. Will be interesting to see how he makes out. He'll have an extra 150+ pounds on the back of the tractor than when I pushed snow, 100# of wheel weights plus his 50+ extra pounds in the seat. He should be able to push snow pretty well. He could have used it a week ago today with the first 2-1/2 inches of white stuff this winter!
 

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