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Archive through October 25, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jeff,

How you grinding your valves? You have a special knack for doing it or you taking it to a shop to get it done? I am thinking by the sounds of it I have to do that to my 100 engine. Need to do a little more research into it first, but by the sounds of it, that might be what is causing my engine to NOT idle up properly when it gets hot? Your replacing the head gasket on yours right? Not using the old one.

I have WAY too many questions for the lack of time people have. OMG!
 
Jeff- Looks good. Lap valves, hone cylinder, install rings, new headgasket...BAM. Ready to rock and roll. (please just don't forget the obvious items not stated)
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Ryan thanks, so you think a ball hone will do it, the cylinder walls look good.
 
Can someone post of picture of their coil hook-up? I am probably just confusing myself, and the service manual isn't clear on the subject. Funny thing is, I tried it both ways and it started up with either combination. Just want to make sure I am not frying anything.
 
Some time back, some of you guys were talking about replacing the field coil for a PTO, and mentioned the "air gap" and I believe also included some kind of diagram to go with it. I have searched through the site, but I'm unable to find it. Could whoever had that info please re-post it, or point me to the original post in case I overlooked it? Thank you.
 
Clark: Have you looked at the diagram Charlie posted in the Archive through October 23, 2012, on the previous page? It can't be more clear to me, although I'm surprised it started in either position, although it depends on what you're hooking up, I suppose.

The only wire that should be on the positive post is the wire from the ignition key. The negative terminal should have BOTH the condenser and the points wire attached to it, although, as both the Service Bulletin and Gerry Ide affirm, the wire from the condenser should be looped once in order allow water to roll off the bottom of the loop before it gets into the condenser and causes problems.
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Charlie: By-the-way, awesome posts, at least to me. You really make a worthy contribution around here.
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Jon Stevens: I'm posting instructions from my 782 Service Manual, which is similar, but not identical to your 582. The parts may be slightly different, but I believe the procedures and the values are identical. Basically, you want to use the "windows" in the side of the PTO to insert your feeler gauge and adjust for 0.010" nominal air gap or a clearance that allows for trouble-free operation.

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If I were you I would consult the manual for your tractor in the manual section.

Just a thought.
 
Jeff- I have done about 3 or 4 engines like what you describe. Just put new rings and a headgasket in them. I really want to get a ball hone for doing just that (I have just a regular stone hone, it works well, you just have to be careful about how long you hone the cylinder). A ball hone will work well. That will be a good engine once you get it put back together. I also have a 14hp with .030 over that runs fine but smokes like crazy...I bet it would run fine for a while with new rings, until I need to re-sleeve it.
 
When you folks hone your cylinder and put in new rings, are they over sized at all? I seem to remember reading somewhere that Kohler made a set of standard bore rings that were .003 over for use in a block that was honed vs bored, say .010 over.

And when you hone the cylinder, new rings and a head gasket, how close are you to a rebore/rebuild in terms of power and longevity of the engine?
 
Jeremiah, This is on a 782, and thanks. I've done the trouble shooting. It works, untill it gets hot. If I disengage the pto once it's hot, I have to wait untill it cools off (engine included) to be able to re-engage the pto. I'm 99% sure on the field coil, I was just having trouble finding good instalation instructions.
 
Keith O,

The difference between auto 30w and Diesel 30w is the chemical makeup. But the short story is diesel has less detergents and more ZDDP (zinc). Auto's are nearly all roller vavletrain now and require less zinc (the slippery stuff in oil) and ZDDP and catalytic converters don't get along well so oil manufacturers have been required to remove most of it from car oil.

Diesels on the other hand still run flat tappet stuff and much higher vavletrain pressures that require more ZDDP than autos ever did. And since most are not required to pass an "emissions" tests, all the good stuff stays in. On a side note, you will find that nearly all new diesels require a seperate EXHAUST fluid that gets passed through the converters to burn out the build up of the good stuff in the oil.

Most lawn and garden oil still has a high enough ZDDP count to work well. But the bottom line is diesel oil is better "oil".

Next time your buying oil, look at the little API stamp on the label and see what standards the oils meet. There will be a lot of letters on the auto oil and only a few on the diesel. So don't put diesel oil in the minivan unless you want to replace the cats.

I run Lucas SAE 30 Plus oil. It is specifically designed for the flat tappet, air cooled, low detergent type engine we use. It works great and is made right in Corona CA, USA. Another side note, I also use 2oz Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant and 2oz Lucas Ethanol treatment in every 5gal can of 87 octane I use for my cubs. It runs like a top and has noticeably more power, faster revs, and less noise than when I run out of those things.

Jonathan D,
Here's why the full synthetic oil is ALWAYS better. Imagine all the little carbon chains we call oil floating around in a Qt of oil. When that oil comes from dinosaur oil, there are lots of different chains of all different sizes. For the sake argument, let's say they are golf balls, baseballs, and soccerballs. All the little golf balls do nothing but fill space. Yes the lubricate, but they are small enough to slip past rings, valve guides, seals and just quickly get burned up or get stuck somewhere they shouldn't be. All those soccerballs are even worse. They are to large to even really properly lubricate and mostly get broken up or never make to the tiny spaces we call clearances. It's all those baseballs that do all the work we want, lubricating while stay where we need them.

Full synthetic oil is engineered to be ALL baseballs (all the exact same carbon chain and all the same perfect size). Its still oil, it's just engineered and formed in a lab instead of under a pile of rocks we call earth. So you are already noticing the benefit of full syn oil. Because you are no longer burning off all those golf balls and breaking down those soccerballs (becoming sludge) which is why Dino oil is so high in detergents, to keep those broken down chains from sticking to your engine parts, which ironically means its passing more dirt and less oil through the oil passages the longer it's run. Why do you think they make full syn's that can run 15k miles? It's not breaking down or burning up!
 
Bill J,

An engine needs to be bored when the piston-to-cylinder clearance is close or past the maximum spec called out by Kohler. So hone away, just don't forget, just because the piston goes in the hole, doesn't mean it fits. Once the cylinder is to big, the piston will rock, wearing things out in a hurry. That's why most good builders require the piston in hand to do a motor. The hone to a "perfect" fit. Not all pistons from the same batch are the same size.
 
Thanks Nic, Great answer. I'm going to keep that post for future reference.
 
Nic - almost hate to ask this, but when I worked with a couple guys to go thru my K341 I understood the cylinder was very close to being within specs, but that I needed honing which would put it over spec. I had a choice to use a .003 oversized piston or have the block re-bored. I went with the .003 since my impression was that Kohler realized this was often the situation and that's why they had .003 pistons available (I don't think any aftermarket companies made the .003 pistons, at least at that time). I'm actually quite happy with the way it turned out - it runs great. So my question is do you have any experience with this type of situation. I've mentioned it on here a few times but I haven't seen anyone else reply or mention go this route. What's your experience or thoughts on this?
 
Hello, to everyone on the IH Cub Cadet Forum. I would like to apologize for a few things. Over the past few weeks, I have been very busy with other things. Apparently, I left my computer on which had me logged in on this forum. I few of my relatives got on and tried to ask people to buy things on here. They also, if I believe, posted things all over this forum, and I am very sorry if any of them made you mad, or just sounded plain silly. I am sorry for any of this that may of happend. Thanks you ---Adam
 
No, Charlie, nothing wrong with the FAQ's. It's not on the first page, and I forgot about the second page.
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