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Archive through October 24, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jerry M, That looks like thesame dipstick on my 147.

Luther H, It looks like it was pretty well kept and clean.
 
Anthony:
I think no one answered you the first time you asked because they're all out trying to find the rear coil springs on THEIR cubs.....Full suspension????
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Well it was only a matter of TIME,I got the 129 dirty. I moved 5 loads of the bucket and wow only one bug.
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And then the clip went for a hike.
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But I had a big grin. later Don T
 
DAVID G. - I got 1400 hours on a "Cheapie rebuild" on a K241. New piston rings, conn. rod, exh. valve, knurled the piston, lightly honed the bore, nothing done to the crankshaft.
I changed the oil about every 30 hrs on that engine. It got run VERY hard sometimes and then probably babied at other times. When I pulled the engine for rebuild a couple yrs ago it was using about 3-4 ounces of oil in approx. 5 hours of operation.

KENDELL - Oak bearings with a little grease or oil are a VERY durable bearing. I'm pretty sure IHC used an oak block for the rear support bearing for the rotor in the early Axial Flow combines. Not sure what C/IH/NH is using now.

Yes, a "Verticle Lathe" ranks right up there with the "Horizontal BRIDGEPORT" We had at a company I worked for in Moline, IL about 20 yrs ago. It wasn't a Bridgeport, actually a small 3" Lucas hortizontal boring mill, made all the tooling & fizturing We made on it take 3-4 times as long to make.

It's AMAZING what You can accomplish when You're REALLY REALLY CHEAP! Back when SON & I were R/C racing I always called Ourselves "Team CHEAP". Finally one day the Guy We'd been beating week after week said, "There's NOTHING CHEAP about You Guys if Your beating Me every week!" He worked at the hobby shop We bought some of Our parts from. I made a LOT of the stuff on our race truck on my "Verticle Lathe" at home.
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There the spring pins on the drive shaft, I was told they were coil spring pins by the local dealer
 
I just today put a rear pin in a 123 and it can be a pain. score a line down the input shaft so you can keep an eye on where the hole in that shaft is when you get the pin in the coupler. Then scribe a line that shows you how far on that shaft the coupler has to be to line the hole up. then mark the spot on the pin itself where it will start to go through one side of the coupler and into the shaft. and sometimes when you get that far you have to hit the pin then wiggle the shaft, repeat. Once your past the line on the pin it it should go in smooth.
 
Jeff B. that 4x4 articulating Cub Cadet was built by Kelley Birkey. He's built several custom Cub Cadets. Do a search of the forums with Birkey as the keyword, you'll find photos of his other creations.
 
I just received a call from my parents in Kansas. They said they bought me a few presents, knowing how much I love the 70/100 series of cubs, from a guy on craigslist. They bought me this 100
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They also bought this original, which the gentleman said was an "older" 100, to give to me.
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The guy gave them a hood off a 70 "in perfect shape". So I'm thinking of replacing the beat-up hood on my 100 with a straighter version.
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I'm very excited about adding these new cubs to my small collection. I'm also excited about having obtained a straight hood for the 100. However, the current flame paint-job on the 100 has been in many photos with family visitors, and I am wondering if I should continue the theme with the new hood. See, we take pictures of people who visit us here in NM on the 100 and put them in a photo album. Currently we have about 30 photos. Should I put flames to match the old hood on the new, straight hood, or should I just re-paint and use decals?

My wife likes the flames. I want to restore to an original look. The flames were only a temporary fix until I had the money/time to perform a good restoration on the 100. Maybe somehow combine the two?
 
Kraig...I went lookin for that 4x4 and found his payloader, sweet ! Found Steve Archers custom that I forgot about....hmmm, haven't heard anything from him in a while. Wonder how it's coming...
 
Anthony- I believe you are refering to coiled roll pins. I'm pretty sure what you need are 1/4" x 1 1/2" coiled roll pins that connect the coupler to the driveshaft and to the tranny. Once you get the coupler over the junction you can line the holes up with a 1/4" bolt from the bottom then drive the pin in from the top. The bolt keeps things lined up and the pin just knocks the bolt out as it goes in. I also put a dab of grease on the tip of the pin which makes driving it a little easier. If this is in fact what you are talking about I hope this helps.
Good luck-Wayne
 
Thanks Kraig, Kelly Birkey is incredible IMHO!!! I rebuilding my 128 this winter in my new cub barn when its done being built and will use all of the forums knowledge for the 128 I plan on turning it into a 129 as I have a 129 donor.
 
now why would you wanna ruin a good cub with something like a hydrostatic transmission!!!!!
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Thanks to all for the input on sand. I have another unrelated question: Were the white molded fiberglass seats on the Cub 123 originally upholstered with foam rubber underneath, or were they plain fiberglass? I recently purchased one with mangled upholstery but have also seen several for sale online that have only fiberglass.
 
Were there attachments made for the rear of the Cub Cadets that used the right angle tiller gearbox mounted with the output pointing straight backwards? I have two different styles of gearbox (3-bolt and 4-bolt mounting). The brackets for them have holes to mount the gearbox with the output to the right or straight back. Just wondering if it was actually used that way for anything.

Jerry
 
Thanks for the reply, Tom. Has anyone had success refurbishing the foam padding in the Cub 123 seats? Mine is a mangled mess... a local upholsterer told me it's not easily salvagable since the fiberglass seat material makes fastening upholstery with a staple gun impossible, and gluing it on would be really messy...
 

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