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Archive through October 20, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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DONALD - I'll have to look closer at my can/bottle, looks the same size as mine, think mine's Permatex brand, but same stuff, Moly in a solvent/oil/graphite or ??? base. I used to buy the stuff in gallon cans years ago when we were building automobile shredder rotors. We'd paint the stuff on with a 4 inch wide paint brush on the 16 or 20 inch diamer shaft before sliding the machined cast spider on the shaft that only had maybe .002" to .003" clearance.
Fiberglass patch over rust should work well as a temporary repair, but I'd try to get some sort of positive mechanical lock on the patch. Wouldn't take much, I'm thinking maybe shoot a couple Pop-Rivits into the area where the patch will be and put the resin & fiberglass over them.
Local hardware stores have a product called Naval Jelly for rust removal, also several spray-on chemicals that convert rust into an oxide coating that prevents more rust, might shoot some of that on the rust to keep it from rusting out under the patch if you don't get the panel replaced right away.
I haven't been around the 450 blower like I have the QA-36/42's, but I'm sure the steel is thinner than the old IH blowers, you don't want the metal getting any thinner. The fiberglass should be tough enough to last quite a while, and unless you run a lot of crushed rock or chunks of ice thru the blower it should hold up O-K.
I repaired a very badly damaged instrument panel cowl on my 129 years ago with a fiberglass boat repair kit, resin, & glass cloth. I actually bonded in a piece of 1/8" x 1" alum. strip with that kit and it held up great for 14 more years. That resin sticks to EVERYTHING!
Fiberglass patch over rust should work well as a temporary repair, but I'd try to get some sort of positive mechanical lock on the patch. Wouldn't take much, I'm thinking maybe shoot a couple Pop-Rivits into the area where the patch will be and put the resin & fiberglass over them.
Local hardware stores have a product called Naval Jelly for rust removal, also several spray-on chemicals that convert rust into an oxide coating that prevents more rust, might shoot some of that on the rust to keep it from rusting out under the patch if you don't get the panel replaced right away.
I haven't been around the 450 blower like I have the QA-36/42's, but I'm sure the steel is thinner than the old IH blowers, you don't want the metal getting any thinner. The fiberglass should be tough enough to last quite a while, and unless you run a lot of crushed rock or chunks of ice thru the blower it should hold up O-K.
I repaired a very badly damaged instrument panel cowl on my 129 years ago with a fiberglass boat repair kit, resin, & glass cloth. I actually bonded in a piece of 1/8" x 1" alum. strip with that kit and it held up great for 14 more years. That resin sticks to EVERYTHING!
Dennis Frisk
Thanks I paved the drive this summer so there will be no rocks to deal with. I think at this point I should put the auger in and see what clearence I have for glass. I do have a rust converter here and will treat the area and sand before the glass.I just found that one of the locking tabs has a stripped nut and will have to order that also
.
Thanks I paved the drive this summer so there will be no rocks to deal with. I think at this point I should put the auger in and see what clearence I have for glass. I do have a rust converter here and will treat the area and sand before the glass.I just found that one of the locking tabs has a stripped nut and will have to order that also
T-Mo
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- Terry Reed
Guys, if you remember, I picked this 104 up - it just cost me a JD rear engine rider.
The previous owner, who is an alcoholic and lost his license, was using it to drive the mile into town and back. Apparently on one trip, he must have been drunk, because he drove it into the ditch and busted the steering.
Well, first I got it running - I had to clean the carb out real good (unfortunately a Walbro). I noticed I could turn the steering wheel to the right and I could make the front wheels turn. But turning the wheel to the left just made the steering shaft rise up in the column. I could turn to the left only by grabbing the cam plate and moving it manually. I then noticed that the retaining nut for the steering wheel was missing and the threads were butchered and the end of the steering shaft was sliced open. Apparently the PO tried to "fixed" the steering. Since I had an extra steering column and gear box, I just cut the shaft below the steering wheel and then punch out the stub of the shaft from the wheel. I will then just replaced the whole steering assembly.
I had to pull the fenders and seat pan off to free up the shifter as I got it stuck into second. Since I had the fenders and seat pan off, I placed a fender deck from a 107 on it, just to see how it would look. I noticed two of the mounting holes through the battery box lined up so I put in those two bolts. The problem is now the fender deck is too far forward and won't allow shifting into first or third. If I keep that fender deck on, I will either have to drill all new holes, or maybe trimmed back the opening for the shifter. I might just put the original fenders back on.
I noticed that the right axle seal leaking, so that will have to be fixed. Also the left front wheel bearings are almost gone, so it would need new wheel bearings.
It runs pretty good and the hydraulic lift unit works - a bonus. I haven't decided what I'm going to do with this - either clean it up and fix all that's wrong with it. Or put the engine, hydraulic unit and the 3 point on this:
If I put it on this 123, I can used the fender deck from that 107 and just do the mods to the footrest areas and drill a couple of new holes to mount the fender deck. What to do, what to do.....?
The previous owner, who is an alcoholic and lost his license, was using it to drive the mile into town and back. Apparently on one trip, he must have been drunk, because he drove it into the ditch and busted the steering.
Well, first I got it running - I had to clean the carb out real good (unfortunately a Walbro). I noticed I could turn the steering wheel to the right and I could make the front wheels turn. But turning the wheel to the left just made the steering shaft rise up in the column. I could turn to the left only by grabbing the cam plate and moving it manually. I then noticed that the retaining nut for the steering wheel was missing and the threads were butchered and the end of the steering shaft was sliced open. Apparently the PO tried to "fixed" the steering. Since I had an extra steering column and gear box, I just cut the shaft below the steering wheel and then punch out the stub of the shaft from the wheel. I will then just replaced the whole steering assembly.
I had to pull the fenders and seat pan off to free up the shifter as I got it stuck into second. Since I had the fenders and seat pan off, I placed a fender deck from a 107 on it, just to see how it would look. I noticed two of the mounting holes through the battery box lined up so I put in those two bolts. The problem is now the fender deck is too far forward and won't allow shifting into first or third. If I keep that fender deck on, I will either have to drill all new holes, or maybe trimmed back the opening for the shifter. I might just put the original fenders back on.
I noticed that the right axle seal leaking, so that will have to be fixed. Also the left front wheel bearings are almost gone, so it would need new wheel bearings.
It runs pretty good and the hydraulic lift unit works - a bonus. I haven't decided what I'm going to do with this - either clean it up and fix all that's wrong with it. Or put the engine, hydraulic unit and the 3 point on this:
If I put it on this 123, I can used the fender deck from that 107 and just do the mods to the footrest areas and drill a couple of new holes to mount the fender deck. What to do, what to do.....?
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- Home of the Plow Special
Don-
I'm going to throw my personal opinion in here. Please don't be taken back by this.
Honestly, I'm not a fan of fiberglass repairs on steel. I think you may be asking too much of fiberglass to make that repair last longer than a few usages because of it's high-stress location.
For the time and money it will take you do to the repair (then "undo" that repair if it fails) you'd probably be better off to just take the time to do it "the right way" now if you can get it to a welder.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just an opinion....
I'm going to throw my personal opinion in here. Please don't be taken back by this.
Honestly, I'm not a fan of fiberglass repairs on steel. I think you may be asking too much of fiberglass to make that repair last longer than a few usages because of it's high-stress location.
For the time and money it will take you do to the repair (then "undo" that repair if it fails) you'd probably be better off to just take the time to do it "the right way" now if you can get it to a welder.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just an opinion....
Terry Reed
That would be easy for me lol. I would repair them both and have a job for each.I would love to have one of those NF hyd lift pumps,But they seem to go for 300.00 I see.That is a lot of repair money on these Cubs. Keep us posted to what you will do. Later Don T
That would be easy for me lol. I would repair them both and have a job for each.I would love to have one of those NF hyd lift pumps,But they seem to go for 300.00 I see.That is a lot of repair money on these Cubs. Keep us posted to what you will do. Later Don T
Thanks Charlie. I bought my Original in a box. Some assembly required. I was trying to see a pic that would show me how the generator bracket hooked up to the block. I'm painting the block so I want to get it right the first time. When your looking at it mounted, are the bolts towards the top or bottom?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
I'm with Art- If you're going to go through all of the work fixing it up, why not do it right the first time and fix the damaged metal? I, too, am not sure that fiberglass is going to hold up very well on there. If it fails in the middle of the season and you can't use the blower as a result, you are no better off than if you had taken more time doing it right the first time.
I'm with Art- If you're going to go through all of the work fixing it up, why not do it right the first time and fix the damaged metal? I, too, am not sure that fiberglass is going to hold up very well on there. If it fails in the middle of the season and you can't use the blower as a result, you are no better off than if you had taken more time doing it right the first time.
