Archive through October 20, 2010

[mschutz]

I adjusted it with one of those gauges. J adjusted down until the gauge ends touched the metal pully

 

[mschutz]

Trying to get my 125 ready for snowblowing since I picked up a windbreaker for it.

 

[mahunt]

MELODY-
Make sure the clutch is set in the right position on the engine, the three legs should have equal pressure, (there is a setting and a tool to adjust this, but I wing it) I set them like a canning jar lid, push in by hand, and see how far it pops out. the "arm" your botton sits on also has bushings, could be bad, but I have never see that. the pto rod should have a adjustment on it also. I don't know if that makes and sense at all....as I might be a red neck

 

[lpalma]

Here's something I never knew,Their are 2 different types of fender brackets for the round fendered 70,100,71,72,and 73'S. The larger ones are for the wider tires.
Ain't tat somthun

 

[rberube]

OK, see if this is correct. I removed all 6 set screws from the clutch pulley from Hole B in the photo. Also, I've depressed the thrust button on the clutch to allow it to spin freely. At this point should the clutch be free to slide forward or do I still need to release the eccentric collar. Looking through hole A in the photo all I can see are the nuts and jam nuts from the screws that are holding the springs in place. Where is the eccentric collar? The mission is to pull the clutch so that I might replace the thrust buttons one is missing and the other is worn level to the three springs. See photo. Can I just use a BFH on the face of the clutch to loosten it or is there some more sophisticated way to loosten it?

 

[digger]

Ron B.
Take that puller off, it's not gonna work.
No on the collar having to come off.
I can tell from the hole in the pic, you have not sprayed PB Blaster or Kroil or any other type of penetrate in them. And no, WD40 will not work.

Rotate the PTO so 2 holes are tilted up and spray them full. Also spray some between the PTO and the basket, so it can creep in through the back.
Let it all soak for a day or two stopping by once and a while to spray some more, and then pry gently all around the edge of the PTO as not to bend up the basket pulley it sets in.
Patience is a virtue messin with getting a tough one off.

 

[fcurrier]

Ronald: At this point, with all 6 allen screws out, the only thing holding the clutch to the bearing is friction. It's kind of a bummer, because the holes for the set screws kind of come out behind the bearing, so penetrating oil isn't all that effective. What works for me is using a brass drift about 10" long, the closest hammer I can find, and tapping the PTO pulley forward from the carb side of the engine while rotating it. Taking the spark plug out will let you rotate it easier. I see in your second pic that you've depressed the clutch? That may take the place of removing the plug. Did I teach the teacher?
Under edit: I didn't notice that the radiator hose clamp was holding a puller. There's nothing to pull, that way. All depressing the center button does is release the clutch.
My moniter isn't wide enough!

 

[lpalma]

Here we go again Frank!!!

 

[wshytle]

Ronald-

You can't see the collar until the pto has been removed. The collar and bearing are attached to the crankshaft and the pto is attached to the bearing by means of the six screws you removed. Like Frank said the pto is just stuck. I also use his method (I'm not fortunate enough to own a 10" brass rod) but I just tap, and I mean just tap a long punch approaching down by the points cover. Tap and turn, tap and turn. From the picture you posted yours doesn't look that bad at all. You'll probably need to reface the pressure plates since it will be apart and maybe replace a few parts with new. It can be a little pricey but you're getting it ready for another 20 years or so. You can also get everything you need from the sponsors above.

 

[rberube]

Thanks to all of you. The jury rigged "puller" is just to release the pressure on the button so I might be able to spin the clutch. Tomorrow I will try all the recommendations that have been made. I now understand how it works,so releasing the clutch should be just an exercise in time, patience, and solvent. I hope! One's never too old to learn something new. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[lbuttke]

Ron B.

Double check those holes for another set of allen screws!!!

The first time I removed a PTO, I removed 2 allen screws per hole and thought I was good to go.

After soaking everything with PB Blaster for 2 weeks I used a BFH and a pry bar to remove the PTO only to find out I had ruined it CAUSE there WAS ANOTHER set of allen screws in the holes holding it onto the bearing.

 

[dross]

Melody, sounds like the adjustment was good on the hub, the only other adjustment is the release arm. Make sure if you don't have a belt on the clutch you don't have it disengaged. the hub can spin even if it's disengaged with no resistance against it. That can wear out a button pretty quick. Make sure the button is lined up with the center of the button it pushes against. good luck.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lewis, I first learned about the two sizes of fender brackets when Paul Bell posted about it a year or so ago. Yep, ya learn something new about these old Cubs and ya relearn stuff on a regular basis. Thankfully there are people out there that share these little jewels of knowledge with others.

Lonny, very good point about there being another set of those danged set screws.

Ron, hang in there with that PTO! The worst part of the battle is getting the set screws out, once they are out you are usually home free. As other's have mentioned PB blaster, time and patience are your best tools at this point. Be sure to check for another set of set screws like Lonny mentioned.

 

[T-Mo]

I created a youtube video featuring a 1968 radio ad and the 1968 brochure images that I got from Kraig. Let's see if this works.

1968 radio ad

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Morning all, I`am out in my Cub shop to see what I can get done today. I read your coment and that made me think that I have used 1.5 containers of Never-Seez since I started this Cub addiction lol. I don`t use it sparingly .I will be degreasing the 450 this am and install a new belt on my loader. All day I will be in here as I hide my truck so people will think i`am not home

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - I also buy Never-seez in the 1/4 pound brush-top bottle. Just about anything I'll be taking apart again gets it applied before assembly. Either that or LocTite. Threaded steel fasteners threaded into aluminum expecially can seize.

When I reinstall a PTO clutch I coat the outer race of the pilot bearing, the ID of the clutch itself, little dab under the special bolts that tension the triangle spring where they rub on the levers, and the set screws get a good coating. Most of my clutches come off by hand now.

 

[dtanner]

Well I ran into a problem here . I think some fiberglass will be used to repair this rust on the edge of this snow blower. Its just to late to take it and waite to have this repaired,I`ll have it done next summer

.

Might as well coat the whole bottom edge with a coat of cloth and be done with it

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

You have to be old or paying attention not to go with a few tricks of the trade lol.Seeing you here today makes me ask for your wisdom on useing epoxy resin and boat cloth on the edge of the snow blower ?? I won`t ever have to wory about rust again. My container is 8oz 1/2 lb .227 kg lol,

 

[T-Mo]

Another radio ad(s) - this one is a compilation of several ads from 1980 - again using audio and images from Kraig.

1980 Combined Radio Ads

 

[aschumacher]

Terry, neat ! Where did you get those old radio commercials...Kraig ?