I'm having a problem with my 149 while mowing on level and relatively smooth ground. The tractor speeds up markedly and can be scary. It is like you suddenly bumped the throttle forward, but didn't do it yourself! I had a problem with the wear in the part that controls the speeding up and slowing down while on hills and fixed that by resizing that part. This is different I think. Anybody have suggestions as to what it might be and what to do? Thanks
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Archive through October 18, 2010
- Thread starter rberg
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stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
William K,
welcome!
Check out the FAQ's listed above(#14).. Also see Charlie's FAQ #33 and #89... The answer will be in there... You have a loose hydro handle friction clamp, and/or a worn trunion...
Check ccmanuals.info/pdf for a manual, as they contain the adjustment procedure... HTH
welcome!
Check out the FAQ's listed above(#14).. Also see Charlie's FAQ #33 and #89... The answer will be in there... You have a loose hydro handle friction clamp, and/or a worn trunion...
Check ccmanuals.info/pdf for a manual, as they contain the adjustment procedure... HTH
William K., WELCOME!
I believe Scott nailed the problem, hopefully it's just a loose hydro friction clamp and not a broken or worn out one. Charlie's CubFAQ entry #89 would be the most likely.
I believe Scott nailed the problem, hopefully it's just a loose hydro friction clamp and not a broken or worn out one. Charlie's CubFAQ entry #89 would be the most likely.
msmucker
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- marcus smucker
Hi, Has anyone had experience with spontaneous oil leaks on the Series II KH17? I have a 782 that I have been mowing with all summer after purchasing it from a person who had not run it in a few years. It didn't seem like it needed much TLC to get it cleaned up and running and it had run great all summer. However, after we left the tractor set for about 10 days I returned to the machine shed a few days ago to find it had leaked quite a bit of motor oil out onto the floor (nearly emptied the crankcase). It had a small leak already, but it wasn't enough to cause concern (or so it seemed) since the level on the dipstick was always in the "good" zone and was topped off before each mowing. Now since the engine is a little greasy, I cant really tell where it is coming from. I expect this means that there is a need for some major work and I am not too anxious to tear into it right now. However, before I do, I wanted to investigate and see if there is someone out there who knows of any trouble points with that motor to look at before we do a major overhaul.
-thanks
-thanks
Just picked up a Brinley BR8? off of Craigslist. The plow shoe and moldboard look in good shape, but it was rigged for a Craftsman tractor. Looks like it is missing the Coulter blade, and there is a broken weld where the Coulter bracket would have been. Other than that, the adjustment screw is free and functional.
Does anyone have a decent solution for the missing Coulter Blade?
Here are a couple of shots of what I got:
Does anyone have a decent solution for the missing Coulter Blade?
Here are a couple of shots of what I got:
Brad, I believe you'll need all but the quantity 2 Item# 10. It's possible that item# 7 might already be on your 127 as well, though it might be a slightly different shape, as in the bent end might be taller... would likely still work with the manual lift.
KRAIG, BRAD - Just for grins I checked the parts look-up and items 5 thru 10 are NLA. But 1-4 are available.
I was just curious since I had to work on my lift lever & rockshaft 5-6 yrs ago because the top button, #1 broke the rod running down thru the lever and I had to make one. Even back in the "Good Old Days" the rod, not shown on the exploded view, was not a "Servicable part" since it had to be INSIDE the lever before it was welded to the rockshaft.
And I found out the hard way it MUST be installed from the top of the handle, and the angle bent at the bottom to engage quadrant #8 with the rod in the handle. You need a torch to heat/bend it.
I was just curious since I had to work on my lift lever & rockshaft 5-6 yrs ago because the top button, #1 broke the rod running down thru the lever and I had to make one. Even back in the "Good Old Days" the rod, not shown on the exploded view, was not a "Servicable part" since it had to be INSIDE the lever before it was welded to the rockshaft.
And I found out the hard way it MUST be installed from the top of the handle, and the angle bent at the bottom to engage quadrant #8 with the rod in the handle. You need a torch to heat/bend it.
DAVE - My first one I tapped the rod up from the bottom, and bent the rod just enough it would stick in the lever tube.
I bought my torch years ago not to cut steel but to heat & bend it. Most of my projects I cut parts with my 30+ yr old used 4X6 band saw. It's a POS but it does cut pretty well yet with my cheap F&F blades. Anyhow, I fell obligated to heat & bend stuff every now & then.
I had to replace that rod in my old 129 yrs ago too, before I had welders & torches. It was a 2-pc weldment. I still have my Dimensioned drawing in my parts books in the shop in case I ever need another one. And I sold the tractor 4 yrs ago! I think the new one from my C/IH dealer cost $500 a pound! Couple ounces of steel for $40.
I bought my torch years ago not to cut steel but to heat & bend it. Most of my projects I cut parts with my 30+ yr old used 4X6 band saw. It's a POS but it does cut pretty well yet with my cheap F&F blades. Anyhow, I fell obligated to heat & bend stuff every now & then.
I had to replace that rod in my old 129 yrs ago too, before I had welders & torches. It was a 2-pc weldment. I still have my Dimensioned drawing in my parts books in the shop in case I ever need another one. And I sold the tractor 4 yrs ago! I think the new one from my C/IH dealer cost $500 a pound! Couple ounces of steel for $40.
