Archive through October 14, 2016

[mhomrighausen]

Jason W. I wish that I could do as good of repair as you've done.

 

[jstertz]

Earl--its funny how the placement of one word totally changes the meaning of a sentence. I.E.--"do I really need another 1450" vs "I really do need another 1450!" Keep us posted on what you decide...

Kraig--please give us the link, I'd love to read the backstory on that "O".

Jason--Kudos on the 149 repair. I agree with Harry, you are a fan of pics but that makes the most mundane of your posts interesting!

So, do you have any plans to get another Cub in the near future? As many posts as you placed on here in a few short months, it surprises me that you don't own about 20 of them already. Although, with that classic 149, you already do have a very nice specimen. As the old saying goes (somewhat modified) Old Cubs are like potato chips, you can't just have one!"

Marlin--are you still planning on coming to BPD X? I'd like to meet you in person for sure. If so, what tractor/s are you planning to bring?

 

[jwiggins]

Marlin & Earl, Thanks

Once I got the business end out of the 1250 and in the 149, I started on the cosmetic repairs,,,

The inner fender took a pretty good hit as well when the cast iron axle tube broke, and the more malleable axle held on for dear life and bent, forcing that big oLe turf forward and in,,,,

Actually the fender "WANTED" to go back to its original stamped form,,,, whenever I got a little overzealous w/ the b*h I just used a little less zeal back in the opposite direction and it wasn't really difficult to get it close to its original form,,,

 

[jwiggins]

Earl,,, Concerning Joshua's post "do I really need another 1450" vs "I really do need another 1450!"

The latter,,,,

Joshua, Thanks and I "currently" for some reason

have no plans to expand herd any further than the parts 1250 and the 149,,,,

Although I have been considering Hydro's mention of religion and carbon,,, Thinking - instead of opening up a can of worms by removing the 149 head which will lead to prolly exhaust valve in similar if not worse condition than the one Wayne pulled from that 1200,,,, along w/ grenade gears that have the pins already pulled and seconds from, BooM,,,,, Not to mention governor gear wear along w/ valve seats, guides, and who knows what else I'd be getting into???????????

I've actually just been considering checking the Sponsors Websites above for maybe a Complete Re-Manufactured engine and going that route vs the 149 down for who knows how long while I really #*%@ up the K321A trying to do it myself!!!!!!

 

[jwiggins]

"MiLo Wiggins"

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jason, I tried to find it in the archives, but it appears that those pages were not saved.

Well, except in my private archive which goes way back...

Here's a link with some photos of the Original when I first got it, that were posted after I FINALLY got it refurbished.

 

[aewald]

Does anyone know what hex head fits the set screw on the hydro levers from 123-169. I'm pretty sure mine is worn out, but it was kinda fit a metric head but didnt catch.

 

[danderson]

10-24 X 1/2 according to parts lookup

 

[jwiggins]

Austin,

Doug is correct,,, Part# IH-192454
Screw, 10-24 X 1/2 Hex Soc Hd Half Dog Pt Set

Also,,,

If your 3/32nd 6 point Allen will not turn the set screw so you can remove your Hydro lever then you could,,,, Possibly use a "Screw Extractor" w/ impact driver to try and Loosen or Remove the set screw???? Anyone?????

Edit: Oh yeah, also a good shot of Penetrating Oil

 

[jwiggins]

I'm Thinking the dirt dauber relics are going to be the least of my worries!!!

It starts rite up, first try every time, and runs so darn GOOD,,, I'm half SCARED to open it up!!!!!

I guess it's inevitable, either sooner or Later,,,, and although I do consider myself "somewhat" mechanically inclined, this K321A is Uncharted Territory!!!!

Guess break out the Service Manual and just start reading,,, I'm prolly gonna have to read it a few times,,, "my brain isn't near as porous as it used to be",,, before I start turning any wrenches,,,,

 

[jwiggins]

Austin, once you start drilling, it's very unlikely the lever threads will survive the encounter unscathed,,, Although you did report success w/ the reverse drill bit on your broken rear end bolt,,, that would be a last ditch effort,,, I guess drilling & tapping for the next larger size set screw wouldn't be that big a deal though,,, ??????

Edit: Oh yeah, and BTW,,, That "Hydro Lever" depending on your lifestyle & habits, could very well give you more pleasure than anything you EVER Grab Ahold of Again!!!! So be Very Careful with IT!!!!!

 

[wshytle]

Jason-

Yank that engine, put it on the bench, and go through it. As fast as you did that rearend swap you will probably be done in a couple of hours at most. You've run it long enough now to where you should be able to see the condition of the main seals too. Heck, while you're in there paint the flywheel (and mark the "S" well).

That valve came from an engine that was used for 37 years and received annual oil changes and basic maintenance but probably no valve work. Bob (owner) has mowed and worked leaves in the fall with the 1200 and that's about it. The chances are your engine has been gone through before in some fashion since it runs so strong now so your exhaust valve is probably in a lot better shape.

BTW, thanks Charlie for getting those seat bumpers out to my friend Bob. He's proud of his new seat and has already painted it IH white. I got his old seat and it's already into it's second life.

.

 

[jlord]

Hello to all,

I need help concerning my rear hydro-lift on my 1976 1650.

It raises just fine and with plenty of force, but will not lower. As far as I can tell all parts are original to the tractor. There are no external leaks anywhere concerning the lift cylinder and the control valve.

However there is one thing I noticed while I was checking out the control valve. When the lever is pulled back to raise, it will return to the neutral position when released, but will not move when pushed forward for lowering. The total travel of the shuttle in/out of the control valve is about 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch.

I figure there must be an internal problem with the control valve and thought someone here may have had this same problem and would share what you did to fix this.
I looked at the diagram of the control and there just aren't that many parts in there to go wrong, any ideas?

Thanks again for all your help! Jim

 

[digger]

Jim L.
Go for the easy stuff first.
look under the dash and make sure that the control lever hasn't slipped on the lift handle, or the lift link has come loose.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Earl... Joshua is right.. You DO need another 1450.

Joshua S. I won't make BPD X this year. Too much going on. I'll be soon getting half of an old railroad boxcar of Cub Cadet parts from Dave Kamp so I need to rent a storage shed for them. Just put $359.49 in the Dakota getting it winter ready. Still needs shocks and a new exhaust. Just too danged busy. (BTW... the parts are going to be distributed as Dave wishes them to be. That is they'll be going to those fellow Cub Cadet collectors that won't sell them but truly need them. I'm honored and humbled to be able to help Dave do this. And one very special gentleman on this Forum was the one that gave me the "gentle" push to do this.

Jim L. The valves shouldn't leak out the top. And they are still available from the sponsors above.

Jason W. Fancy says, "HI, Milo!!!"

Austin. I've had some of the levers drilled and tapped to a bigger size set screw. I'm going to have to install a second screw to help lock the one inside so that it doesn't keep backing out on the 125.

 

[jlord]

Charlie & Marlin,

Thanks for your quick responses.
For the lift control, all linkages are good and the control lever is not bent or binding.
Have you ever heard of one of these shuttle valves have an internal failure that would cause this problem?

Post edited per request of Jim L.

 

[nbextermueller]

They only guy I truely trust for cub cadet parts looks like this:

 

[digger]

Jim L.
I'm REAL sure that if you email Mark and tell him what the deal is, He will be more than happy to replace them!

 

[elamott]

<a href="http://s720.photobucket.com/user/elamott2/media/Cub%20Cadet/008_zpseooqeinv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/elamott2/Cub%20Cadet/008_zpseooqeinv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 008_zpseooqeinv.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s720.photobucket.com/user/elamott2/media/Cub%20Cadet/006_zpssmg9ersj.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/elamott2/Cub%20Cadet/006_zpssmg9ersj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 006_zpssmg9ersj.jpg"/></a>

I used my new RPM gun today and it seemed to work. At idle it read about 1000 and at high end it read 2590. I put the sticker on the clutch drive plate as you can see on the picture. When I snapped the picture, it was running in the 1500 range. The reading was pretty steady. I thought that the idle seemed slower than 1000 but what do I know. The readings moved a little but not drastic. What should the high speed RPMs read. I have read the max is 3600, but what is a good high speed RPM?
I did not know how to upload the pics directly so I used Photobucket. Click on the links to get the pictures.
Earl L

 

[mgonitzke]

Set it to 3600. Double check the Kohler manual, but that is probably under load, so no load will be slightly faster. I don't have a manual in front of me or I'd just tell you.