Archive through October 13, 2013

[jbaker]

here's what I have ready for work

 

[lpalma]

Nice to see you picking up some cubs Frank.how many now?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Frank C. You're right. I'll get that critter covered tonight when I get home. Thank You for reminding me. It also has the OEM metal fan on the driveshaft.

Jeff b. That should work just fine for plowing.

Everone have a safe and wonderful week. Off to work.

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN - Saw your post from Sunday Aft, your friend in Marshaltown has a nice collection of CC's. I like the Original w/ blade sitting in the rock garden. Kinda like a D7 Cat in it's element!

Seems sad that the newest CC he has, the 1100 is going to be parted out because of transmission/rearend problems while all the old CC's with the IH rearend are still raring to work. I always snicker when someone brags up on how durable those Peerless rearends are, guess they're O-K for a lawn tractor.

 

[bjamison]

Looks like I got bit by the archive - here is the barnyard w/126 pic:

 

[jbaker]

Is there a manual for the brinley plow set-up/operators for using with our cubs available?

I looked but did not find one

 

[bjamison]

Jeff B - check your e-mail.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, I have a Brinly plow manual that I can send via email. The zip file with the manual is around 3.5MB. Would you like me to send it to the email address in your profile?

Under edit:Looks like Bill J. has you covered...

 

[tsummer]

I finally got around to tearing down my Cub Cadet 100 for its’ 50 year rebuild. It is in about a million pieces, but going fairly well. This is my main workhorse and I love the machine.



A tranny question: my machine doesn’t stay in gear too well and sometimes slips into neutral. This happens mostly in 2nd but has also done it to me in 1st and reverse as well. I don’t use third, so I can’t say much about it.



After some prior advice on this subject, I picked up shift forks, detent balls and springs in hopes of this fixing the problem. Upon inspection, I can see little difference between the old parts and the new ones. I don’t want to put the parts in and then go through the rather lengthy process of reassembly only to find out that the problem is still there.



My suspicions have now shifted to gearing, but I don’t know much about that area. I know a small engine guy that might be willing to tear into the tranny for me. My question is this: would worn gear teeth be the likely culprit? If so which gears should I be looking at. I don’t want to replace the whole gearset as it would cost more than the machine is worth.



Hopefully there is a real ‘gear’head on this forum.



Thanks much,

Todd

 

[fcurrier]

Bill (or Kraig), me too, please?

Jeff, you ask such good questions! Do me a favor? Every time you pull that hydraulic lift handle back think "Poor old Frank".

Do-Da: As of yesterday maybe one too many. My present opinion of the 102 us that it had many years of use and "proper" attention, changed hands and was put out to pasture - possibly IN the pasture! I've got the right steering spindle freed up and the left is starting to come. Fuel system in terrible shape so carb is soaking. The plow, weights and Brinly hitch are taking some of the sting from what I paid - which is more than I've ever spent on one at one time. He better start and be nice to me because I'm looking at parts he's wearing that I really don't need - especially since he's the only gear drive here. Until he runs and drives he's in limbo.

Have a great week, everyone!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank, done!

 

[dfrisk]

TODD - Unless the transmission has been forced into gear, grinding the engaging sides of the gear teeth, I REALLY doubt the gears are the problem. If you check the teeth, the engaging sides of the teeth are "Rounded", I had two HURTH Gear teeth rounding machines in the gear machining dept. I was a Production scheduler in at FARMALL.... they didn't run CC gears for LVL, but ran some other gears for them and IH E. Moline too. Anyhow, the grinding gears if done hard enough could deform and maybe even chip the rounded edges of the gears, but not do anything to the teeth where one gear engages the mating gear.

My #72 was getting so it would occasionally slip out of gear on a really hard pull, turned out the cap screws holding the shift forks onto the shift rails were just a bit loose, and let the shift forks move a little and not completely shift the gears into full engagement, I removed the rearend, popped the shift lever cover off and tightened them up and no problems since.

The new springs & detent balls are a good idea to install. If there's any question about if your shift forks are the right parts I wouldn't put them in, just tighten the ones already installed.

Installing the new springs & detent balls requires major disassembly, but it isn't hard or even difficult, the 70/100 service manual available here in the manual section goes thru everything you need to do. Take your time and you should be able to repair this yourself.

 

[tsummer]

Dennis, thanks for the reply. I have owned the machine for about twenty years. It held gear for the first fifteen of them. I have never ground the gears, so perhaps your tip on the forks is the answer. Assuming I feel brave enough to dig in further to go after the detent balls, I will try to take some closeups of gear teeth.

 

[rkelm]

Todd, I also had the same problem with one of the 126's I had and I also "fixed" it by tightening the cap screws as mentioned by Dennis. After tightening them up no more problem with slipping.
Rodney

 

[dfrisk]

TODD - Before you pull the rearend out of the frame, remove the seat base, four 3/8" cap screws, then the gear shifter plate has six (IIRC) 5/16" capscrews, and you should be able to lift the whole shifter out of the transmission, and the shift forks & cap screws are right there on top.

If it worked for Rodney & Me, could work for you too.

 

[bjamison]

Ooooops! Kraig beat me to it. Frank - I sent you the manuals too.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - just catching up here. You didn't mention anything about that light-GREEN colored Kohler with a side mounted gas tank, that's sitting in the trailer. What's the story?
And while you're at it - what's the story with that wheel weight layin' on the ground in your last pic?

 

[bbranstetter]

After a long summer of messing around the 782 its done or at least as far as the motor was concerned. I was a bit disappointed that it took so long but going after all of the details is always worth it in my book. The motor couldn't run better and is clean burning as could be. We're going to have to wait a little longer to put a plow behind it so may have to wait till November or even next spring.

A huge thanks to all of you fine folk that helped make this project possible! Thanks for every ones input and words of encouragement!!

 

[rrschmitt]

Brian B,

Congrats on getting your 782 back together. I know you had your share of frustrations/expense with what started out as a simple project to add an oil filter to your KT-17. Way to stick with it. Wow, ~40 psi oil pressure at idle. That's great oil pressure. What's the pressure at WOT?

 

[bjamison]

Brian B - nice job with the 782. I can relate to taking to long with my 1650. I was challenged at every turn for time time to tinker with it, and couldn't bring myself to slap it together. I did a lot of stuff that probably doesn't add any value to the tractor were I to sell it - like cradle mod, super steer, etc. I've still got a lot of work to do and at some point need to clear out one or two IHCC's as I'm out of room and Momma ain't happy about all these tractors I've dragged home in the past two years. While the 1650 is a little more complicated than the 109 or 126 I've got, there's something appealing to me about it - can't place my finger on it yet. Your 782 probably is similar in that in-spite of whatever complexity, when you get to the end, hard to part with.

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