Archive through October 06, 2014

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, While it would be best if you could somehow get some PB Blaster or other brand of good penetrating oil into the threads it will be hard to do that without tipping the cub on it's side or upside down or by removing the lift arm and rockshaft. If the narrow portion of the lift button is still intact on the lower portion of the button, you might be able to get a hold of it with a needle nose pliers and unscrew it. I did this decades ago with my #1 125 but it was less than 10 years old and the threads were not at all rusted up. Hopefully it will come off easily for you. If not, Amy K. was able to replace one on her 1x4 Cub Cadet a year or so ago by grinding the top of the lift handle tube to expose a slight bit of the broken button.

 

[kide]

Brian:
What Kraig said....

 

[bellwood]

OK awesome, I'll get a new one ordered up and see about somehow getting access to the remaining bits to remove it...

From the views I have, removing the entire lift arm shouldn't require too much disassembly if needed...

Oye! Thanks for all the help folks, lucky for me, I guess, I got everything mowed and the season is basically over... Only thing I need to beat is the on set of really cold weather!

 

[sblunier]

Brian,

Set the depth stop limit on the tractor to hold mowing height (without lift rod) if you need to continue mowing to finish out the season.

 

[bellwood]

Steve,

Great idea! I'll definitely do that if I need to mow with the Cub again... I'm thinking at this point though I can probably get by with the Woods deck on my Kubota IF I need to finish mow again...

I'm really just down to my last mow of the season on all the hay fields that didn't get a second cutting this year...

Is there any way I can force the internal rod up from the bottom of the lift arm? I felt around down there but couldn't find any spot at the bottom that moved or would allow me to push up...

Worst case I drain the oil and the gas and then tip her over (eep!)

Thanks all =)

 

[dschwandt]

Brian, you will probably wind up having to cut the lower "L" shaped end off the internal arm. That way, you should be able to remove all the parts including the rod (minus the lower bend "L", from the upper end. Either way, you will have to remove the lock button (and probably destroy it in the process) to get everything apart.


After removing the broken end from the internal rod, weld the "L" back on the bottom and reassemble. test fit before final assembly to make sure everything moves freely as it should and does not bind anywhere.

Good luck!!

 

[bellwood]

Well I just took a couple minutes to check things out... I was able to get the push button popped back out which caused the inner-rod to spring back up...

So now the nub is within an inch or so from the top... The only needle nose I have are light duty and didn't work so I shot some pb blaster down there and am going to let it sit overnight...

I'm thinking it's going to be easier to work on this if i remove the deck and remove the lift arm assembly...

Hoping to have time this weekend for it, will keep everyone updated...

Thank you =)

 

[rkelm]

Brian, I am watching this closely as I had almost the same thing happen. I went under a low hanging limb and backed up and the limb pushed the shaft down and button is somewhere. I have another assembly but am curious as how this works out. This happened a couple of weeks ago and has worked out but I don't have the flexibility to change the level for now. I will keep watching.

 

[kduffy]

Morning all, Was wondering if anyone could answer a question for me. I am putting together my rear lift for my 1450 and I need to know where the hole is located at for the lift pin, so I can cut it down to size and drill the hole. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Kevin D.
The large 1/2" hole is 4" out from the cotter pin hole, or 5/8" from the end of the pin.

Total length of the pin is 7 1/2".

 

[kduffy]

Charlie,

Thats just what I needed! Thanks.

 

[proessler]

Koen H, I like your website. Have you shared it with Red Power Mag forum ? Guys over there would enjoy it too. By the way Dad was in Belgium during WWII. I wish you best of luck with your IH Cub Cadet model 70 !

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - don't jump the gun here. I would not order any parts, the button, or anything else, until you get your lift arm assembly apart (if you're able to at all). I've had some experience with NY rusty parts and it wasn't good. I think Kraig and Amy may have been lucky. In my experience 90+% of the time, you can't get it apart. You'll likely end up needing to get a complete used lift arm assembly, which used to be pretty readily available.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY, BRIAN E. - If you do a search on my name on the lift rod repair topic you'll find I've posted rather detailed instructions on how I repaired my lift lever at least a dozen times or more.

Used parts are not the only solution.

 

[mmoredick]

i have a qa42 with a chain adjuster that was not set correct and worn into the sides. Has any one made something else work for a chain adjuster on these?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, how far in did it wear? On one of my QA42s one side had about 1/8" to 3/16" of wear into the adjuster. I added some washers as a shim and so far, about 14 years on, all is well.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - yes, without doing the search and if I recall correctly, you use a torch to straighten the "L" at the bottom of the rod, so you can slide the rod out, fix the top where it's snapped off, then insert the rod and use the torch again to bend the "L" back in the rod. I'm certain that could be done - but I always just found it easier, less involved, to get a good used lift arm assembly.

 

[mmoredick]

kraig,
he ran it until the gear went into the grease zert. The drive shaft isn't that far away. Amazingly the bearings are still good. I may pick up some spacers to help set it correct for now. There appears to be a broken tool in one set screw that they tried drilling out too..

 

[kshultz]

Matt,
Is it a grease "zerk" or "zert"?

 

[dfrisk]

SHULTZIE - Officially it's ZERK. Not sure why so many people try calling them zirts... maybe they're thinking ZITS...

Anyhow, more info than most people need to know about ZERKS, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_fitting

HARRY - Yes, a gas torch was used in making my "Not serviceable separately" per my 1981 parts book inner lift lever release rod. The "waist" of the top button is the weakest part of that whole design, and the 5/16" rod with the threads at the very top is the second weakest point, which when you try to remove the top button, means you twist the top half inch of threads off the inner rod making it too short to salvage. Guess I should start "re-manufacturing" those inner lift levers and rods and sell them on e-vil-bay.

Actually, the old broken inner rod comes out with a little gentle persuasion, no torch needed to remove the old rod.