Archive through October 06, 2014

[snicklas]

Shultzie,

I believe they are called a Grease Zerk. That is what I have always heard them called. I've even had some that do not want to take grease, or like the one on the steering gear box on the 1650. It was caked in dirt and other goo and pointing the wrong way. That was fun to find. Once I found it, it obviously had not had grease in quite a while (I just got the 1650 this spring). I have an air grease gun and it took at least two dozen pulls of the trigger to fill it back up. It steers so much better now.... until I put the QA42A on....... that thing is heavy.......

 

[kide]

Denny:
I'm with you - "Not serviceable separately" is just code for "get the tools out, we're gonna fix this sucker". Screws can replace rivets, glue can replace welded plastic, a torch can help straighten a rod and re-bend it, a die can run more threads on a rod.... The consumable, throw-away way of life drives me crazy ... and my kids are gonna really be pi$$ed when they have to dispose of my estate, although I've made a good start on getting rid of the "I'll save that and repair it when I get time" stuff.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - I think I've "turned that corner" too, I'm no longer accumulating projects, just finishing them up and maintaining what's already running.

I had the privilege of helping sort through Dad's collection of stuff before his last auction. We filled a 30 cubic yard dumpster, then the scrapper drug about 60% of that out, so we refilled it again and started scrap iron piles, which actually sold really well.

It's really not hard to fix those inner rods on the manual lift levers. A propane torch isn't hot enough to heat & bend the 5/16" rod, but a MAPP gas torch should be. The WF lift rods are a 2-piece design, both pieces different diameter. I have a sketch of the one from my 129 in my parts book for future reference. The good news on WF's is you can assemble the inner rod easily, the BAD NEWS is it's NLA from CC/MTD.

 

[dgregg]

Does anyone know of anybody who makes up the power shaft for an H-42 for a CC782? My power shaft has a bad u-joint and it is not a serviceable style. need to replace the whole thing. Hunting for answers.

 

[digger]

David G.
Look for a shop/dealer that services Spicer drive lines.
They should be able to get you fixed up.

 

[jpatchett]

David G.

Last year I put new needle bearings and center pins in the drive shaft of my H48. Why is yours non-servicable?

Jim

 

[dgregg]

It appears to me that the knuckle is too wallowed out.

 

[jpatchett]

David,

I can still see the wall of the bearing cap, did the pin wear completely through the bearing cap and into the yoke. Hard to tell from the picture, but you still might be OK. I would press/drive out the pins and bearings and see if the yoke holes are still round.

Jim

 

[dgregg]

Jim
I'm not familiar with this style of U-joint, I'm use to the type that has a snap ring at the end of the cup. How do these come apart?

 

[jpatchett]

David G.

They are almost the same. The bearings are pressed in rather than held by a snap ring and the center cross is not one solid piece. The cross is a cube with two holes drilled thru that intersects in the center of the cube and are perpendicular to each other. There is 3/8” dowel pin pressed in each end of the holes (4 pins each cube).

IMPORTANT: If you decide to DIY. Do not allow the distance across between the yoke bearing holes to change while pressing or driving out or in the pins and bearings. This is called the u-joint width, if this gets changed the life of the rebuild could be very short.

The first thing to do is drill (3/8 to 7/16”) the end cap of the needle bearing out to expose the needles and cross pin. This step has been done already on one part of your drive shaft, more or less. With a punch or rod < 3/8” press or drive the exposed pin (inward) toward the other pin and bearing. This will drive out 2 pins and one bearing out the other side, at this point the u-joint yokes will separate from one another. The yoke still holding the cross needs to have the same done, expose the pin and drive it inward and out the other side. I think a ½” diameter rod is need to press/drive out the remaining needle bearing out of each yoke. This can be done with a hammer, punch/rod and a stack of ¾” washers (washers are used as a base to set the yoke on while driving out the pins). I have an arbor press and many pieces of rod, rings, blocks, etc.

The bearings are trade# BCE-66 made by many manufactures. They are 9/16” OD, 3/3” ID and 3/8” wide. The pins are 3/8” and the length is around ¾”, I can’t remember the length I got. I will check when I get home. The bearings and pins can be pressed in with a HD C-clamp or vise. The bearing cups are not the strongest do to material thickness, so it is best to have a softer metal against them when installing. I would not use a hammer to drive any of this together, increases chance of yoke damage i.e. width.

If I have time I will look for a "how to" someone posted on the interweb.
Jim