J
jott
Guest
Matt, I agree, but the "high" range is basically neutral since the tractor would drive at that same speed if it didnt have the creeper in it. thats how i see it.
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Kraig, Paul, Josh, etc on the creeper-
This is just a curious question but wouldn't the high range of the creeper act as a neutral seeing how the creeper gear is by-passed? I have been reading the posts and see how it could be confusing. I've never seen a creeper in the middle position either; it's either forward or to the rear.
Just lurking....and curious.
This is just a curious question but wouldn't the high range of the creeper act as a neutral seeing how the creeper gear is by-passed? I have been reading the posts and see how it could be confusing. I've never seen a creeper in the middle position either; it's either forward or to the rear.
Just lurking....and curious.
J
jott
Guest
Wayne, thats basically what i stated in my proir post(but thats fine
) and yes the way i see it it would becuase it doesnt change the speed in the "high position"
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
N = no output to drive wheels. Direct = no reduction...you can't say N = Direct.
Creeper is in direct or creeper, while there is a "N" spot in the middle, there is no detent for it => it should not be listed as having a N selection.
Creeper is in direct or creeper, while there is a "N" spot in the middle, there is no detent for it => it should not be listed as having a N selection.
I'M NEW TO THIS WEBSITE, BUT NOT NEW TO CUB CADET.I STILL HAVE THE 1st CUB CADET THAT I
BOUGHT NEW IN 1970, A 126. MY QUESTION IS
ABOUT THE GAS TANK. MY TRACTOR SAT FOR ABOUT
3-4 YEARS WITH THE TANK ABOUT 1/2 FULL. I HAVE
TRIED ABOUT EVERYTHING TO CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING
HAVING IT BOILED OUT AT A RADIATOR SHOP. I AM
STILL GETTING GUNK IN MY GAS LINE. DO I NEED
TO JUST FING ANOTHER TANK OR HAS SOMEONE
GOT A SUGGESTION?
BOUGHT NEW IN 1970, A 126. MY QUESTION IS
ABOUT THE GAS TANK. MY TRACTOR SAT FOR ABOUT
3-4 YEARS WITH THE TANK ABOUT 1/2 FULL. I HAVE
TRIED ABOUT EVERYTHING TO CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING
HAVING IT BOILED OUT AT A RADIATOR SHOP. I AM
STILL GETTING GUNK IN MY GAS LINE. DO I NEED
TO JUST FING ANOTHER TANK OR HAS SOMEONE
GOT A SUGGESTION?
Don, as Kraig said WELCOME!
Great question! I am wondering the same. The tank on my 125 is not rusty, the gas that came out of it was old...YUK! How do I get the rest of the gunk out of it, or maybe there is none... I put some more gas in and shook it. Please let us know.
FYI Digger's Steering wheel removal worked again !!! Thank you! This one was not as easy as the first few I've done. This time I had to let the steering wheel get soaked a second time - with PB Blaster, then a couple days later I installed the bolt/nut combo on the steering shaft, put my knees under the steering wheel and it popped right off! I did not even hit with a hammer!
And Lastly messing with the Hydro Tans on a 125 is not the most fun thing... But I do believe I will have it at the Montrose Plow Day! It'll be the ugly duckling there...
Great question! I am wondering the same. The tank on my 125 is not rusty, the gas that came out of it was old...YUK! How do I get the rest of the gunk out of it, or maybe there is none... I put some more gas in and shook it. Please let us know.
FYI Digger's Steering wheel removal worked again !!! Thank you! This one was not as easy as the first few I've done. This time I had to let the steering wheel get soaked a second time - with PB Blaster, then a couple days later I installed the bolt/nut combo on the steering shaft, put my knees under the steering wheel and it popped right off! I did not even hit with a hammer!
And Lastly messing with the Hydro Tans on a 125 is not the most fun thing... But I do believe I will have it at the Montrose Plow Day! It'll be the ugly duckling there...
Matt thanks for the info. So all the cyclops GT's have them except for the Supers? I thought they were called the super steer upgrade because it came from a super? Incorrect? So is there a way to tell without knowing what tractor it came from (visually)? I assume the one Chris W has in the classifieds is not the super steer axle since its a super diesel then? I was really look'n at it since its got the bigger front (18") that I wanted.
Hmm I didnt think about the extra lift messing up the geometry of the snow blade. I dont have a snow blower so not too concerned about that, but I do use a blade. However the blade will be on my hydro unless I am having issues, I wanted to do the super steer on my gear drive (1000). And I actually wanted the extra lift, right now I have larger tires in back so there is a bit of a rake. And I really wanted to go even bigger.
Is there anything else it would mess up the geometry for? Can I still run a mower deck (44A)? Probably wouldnt interfere with tiller right?
Got a lot of mods I want to do, just want to make sure I know how to do em right.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 07:45 am:
Tristan-
All of the Cyclops GTs have a super steer axle (but not the supers) and there are two different ones. They all have it, regardless of whether or not they have PS. You want the early variation (1860, 1861, 1862, 1535, 1541) instead of the late version (1440, 1641, 1863, 1864) because the later version raises the front of the tractor a couple inches and will screw up the geometry of your front blade and possibly the snowthrower, too. The earlier version is a bit beefier, too IMO.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Hmm I didnt think about the extra lift messing up the geometry of the snow blade. I dont have a snow blower so not too concerned about that, but I do use a blade. However the blade will be on my hydro unless I am having issues, I wanted to do the super steer on my gear drive (1000). And I actually wanted the extra lift, right now I have larger tires in back so there is a bit of a rake. And I really wanted to go even bigger.
Is there anything else it would mess up the geometry for? Can I still run a mower deck (44A)? Probably wouldnt interfere with tiller right?
Got a lot of mods I want to do, just want to make sure I know how to do em right.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 07:45 am:
Tristan-
All of the Cyclops GTs have a super steer axle (but not the supers) and there are two different ones. They all have it, regardless of whether or not they have PS. You want the early variation (1860, 1861, 1862, 1535, 1541) instead of the late version (1440, 1641, 1863, 1864) because the later version raises the front of the tractor a couple inches and will screw up the geometry of your front blade and possibly the snowthrower, too. The earlier version is a bit beefier, too IMO.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Jimmy C.
Have you tried looking at the top of this page?
Have you tried looking at the top of this page?
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
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- 4,829
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Note driveshaft guard has been clearanced and the main sub frame has been clearanced behind/below the pulley to clear the super steer axle (with poewer steering).
I have recently added 26" rears that really help with keeping it level.
SS axle is off of an 1862.
Using an axle off of a true SGT will result in no steering clearance an a thrower hanging 3" off the ground. Art had some pics of it at one time....
I have recently added 26" rears that really help with keeping it level.
SS axle is off of an 1862.
Using an axle off of a true SGT will result in no steering clearance an a thrower hanging 3" off the ground. Art had some pics of it at one time....
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Steve B.-
Are you sure that isn't an 1864 axle? That looks like the later (higher) style, and not like the one that I have laying around from the 1862 I parted years ago.
Are you sure that isn't an 1864 axle? That looks like the later (higher) style, and not like the one that I have laying around from the 1862 I parted years ago.
Steve.. looks good. So it is possible to still make the combo work. But I dont even have a thrower so not too worried 'bout that and the snow blade will be on my other tractor anyhow (prefer hydro for snow removal).
I guess the questions I still have are: can I still mount a mule drive for mower or tiller and still be able to mow. I suppose that might depend how big I go on tires as well, but atleast with the stock tires is there any other clearence isuue. And I'm still trying to figure out if the one Chris W has in the classifieds would have a super steer axle. I mean it should right, just the one thats even taller than the non-supers?
I guess the questions I still have are: can I still mount a mule drive for mower or tiller and still be able to mow. I suppose that might depend how big I go on tires as well, but atleast with the stock tires is there any other clearence isuue. And I'm still trying to figure out if the one Chris W has in the classifieds would have a super steer axle. I mean it should right, just the one thats even taller than the non-supers?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Tristan-
All of the SGTs have their own unique axle (not super steer) that I believe is the same from 982-2284. Using one of those on a GT will probably royally screw up the geometry of any attachment you try to mount.
All of the SGTs have their own unique axle (not super steer) that I believe is the same from 982-2284. Using one of those on a GT will probably royally screw up the geometry of any attachment you try to mount.
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QA42A Snow-thrower hanging from the frame of an 1872. Note: There is no lift-bar attached in these pics. It's literally HANGING off the frame and won't hit the ground.
In this pic you can see how the left-front tire of the tractor is binding on the driveshaft/chain-gear guard assembly.
In this pic you can see how the left-front tire of the tractor is binding on the driveshaft/chain-gear guard assembly.
lpalma
Well-known member
I like how you mounted lights to your thrower
