Archive through October 06, 2010

[aaytay]

Thanks Lewis... I just disconnected the tractor's headlights and used that original lead to power the "mounted" lights on the blower.

It's amazing how just getting the light IN FRONT OF the plume of snow coming out of the thrower chute changed the entire lighting situation at night.

Instead of illuminating a white plume of snow that would just glare back in your face with the tractor mounted lights, these throw the light down the driveway a good 40-50yrds.

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)

I would love to see a shot of your chute rotator.
I want to do this on my 450 if possible.Frank sent over the rain here and I can`t get any seat time today,but will come Saturday.

Art A
love the light idea and have a set in my shop that will be added also.Looks like you bent the drift cutters over and mounted the light on them?
I also want to install a light for the back.I did this to my 149 and love it for connecting the trailer in the dark. works great.

 

[bwise]

I need some help with my 1000. The self aligning bearing in the end of the motor is not staying in place. It is sliding in then the drive shaft is not in the bearing fully and can wobble.

 

[bwise]

testpic

Item 21 is sliding into the bushind too deep and just the chamfered end of the driveshaft is in it.

 

[dtanner]

Guys I`am attempting to find why my 129 is not charging,HELP as I can`t figger out what I should have for meter readings .I `am getting 12.35 Volts crossing the Battery wire to ground on the regulator ,G and F show nothing and when runnig the engine I get -2.30 on both G and F ...lost as to what is up.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

Put your voltmeter across the battery terminals...it should be 13.5V or so. If not, it isn't charging. Temporarily ground the field terminal on the S/G and see if that pegs the ammeter to the charge side. If it does, it isn't the S/G; if it doesn't, there is something wrong with the S/G.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke

If I start the tractor and let it run ,Can I test the out of the startergen with a meter? and waht should I use on my meeter 12V setting?

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

I just told you how to test the S/G. If your ammeter doesn't work for some reason, you should see 14V or so across the battery when you ground the F terminal of the S/G. If you take the S/G off and measure the resistance between the 'A' and 'F' terminals, it should be 8 ohms or so. Do the test I mentioned first so you don't go looking for problems in the wrong place.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
That blower didn't have drift-cutters on it when I first got it, so i just "made" a set of out some steel bar stock and bent it over. The nice part is that the holes were already in the blower housing.

I suppose there is a better way to engineer that part of it, but we really don't get enough snow around here to warrant drift-cutters many times anyway.

 

[dfrisk]

ART - now that you mention them, I don't think IH ever had or offered drift cutters on QA-series snow blowers, but the holes for them on the sides were always punched.

Think the later Haban blowers all had them.

Been a few times I could have used them if I cleaned up with the blower, like when I had a three to four foot tall drift about a foot thick stretching forty feet across the frt of my shop.

 

[jharvey]

Matt
I can't find the current path to peg the ammeter if the field terminal is shorted to ground on a 129. Is your S/G test possibly for some other model?

 

[dtanner]

Matt

I got company and worked on my Cub shed today.I will try again Friday afternoon and find out what is up with the none charging 129 loader.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jerry-

That is for any S/G-equipped CC.

 

[fcurrier]

Leave it to Don to (no matter how neatly) put the TYRAP on upside down.

 

[aschumacher]

Jerry and others...S/G basics
http://www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/starter-generator.htm
<font size="-2">Frank, I saw that too but figured the ink wouldn't slide off and if I turn my display upside down I can read the phone number if I need it !</font>

 

[fcurrier]

I suppose this could get awkward:

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

That comes in a 9' wide roll and I was not going to take the one wall off when I realized I should have started and went the other way lol.THe door will get installed In a few days and siding in the spring and then you won`t see the typar.Nauss Brothers are now closed and Kent building supplies now run that store now. I will have to get some v grove for the door in the am and then look at the 129 not charging issue,it did charge great before I took the cub apart to paint . I must have something wrong on the install.I have a ton of stuff to move and lots of odd jobs to get done. WE could have snow anytime.

 

[mglenn]

Don W. welcome.

I have been using Evaporust that you can buy from TSC stores. It is non-toxic, and it has worked so far on my Original parts(being done as I type). I used muratic acid years ago on my Desoto and it is just too dangerous if you ask me. You accidently get a breath of that and you'll wish you hadn't. This stuff is pricey $20 for about half a gallon, but does not seem to be as agressive. It can be used more than once, and leaves a film on the part for protection until you want to finish it, it washes off with hot soapy water. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

 

[mglenn]

Don w.

I have used laquer thinner or acetone to clean up old gas gunk with much success. I use bb's for shaking with the thinner, they will usually come out the outlet pretty easily.

 

[rtunison]

I opened up a K-301 that will become a "Killer Kohler" and this is what I found...

If you look close you can see needle bearings lying everywhere. Thankfully it did not damage anything that I can see. And a little more progress on the K-321. I could not find a bead blaster in my area so the head is getting polished the old fashioned way,,, me and a Dremel.