Archive through October 01, 2008

[dfrisk]

KEITH L. - Must be nice to nurse a 2 gal. can of Cubbie gas long enough for it to go stale....takes Me about 4 gal. to mow the lawn ONCE. With the old 129 I sold two years ago I could get by with 3+ gal. most times. I normally buy about 15-25 gal. at a time. I store gas in the FARMALL's and syphon into a 2-1/2 gal. can. Super H holds 17 gal. and M holds 21.

MARK G. - Frank & Kendell are correct...don't put any paint on the head because it won't stay nice looking long on a working tractor and if You want to clean the rust off the fins on the cylinder pull all the shrouding off and mask EVERYTHING You can. Rust is actually a pretty good insulator but it does increase surface area and You really can't prevent it on bare cast iron. If You really wanted to prevent the rust You'd have to investigate a plating or coating for the fins. Something like tin-zinc or aluminizing. I found a company 6.3 miles from the house that specializes in Plasma coating or metalizing. I bet one of the engineers there could come up with something!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Keith, (posting from home) from my home PC the photo appears darker then my work PC and the plywood doesn't show up here either.

Lonny, the drill press has been used a bunch of times but I've only used the vise a couple of times.

 

[bnolte]

Computer update:
Got the replacement motherboard for my Dell Dimension 3000 today. It took about an hour to swap the old one out and the new one in, and get things hooked back up. On one hand, the new board/processor combo is a bit of an upgrade, from a 2.4 Ghz Celeron to a 2.8 Ghz P4. On the other hand, I was concerned about how the hardware change would get along with the XP install on my hard drive. Other than a little weirdness on boot, everything seems to be working now. I even saved the 1GB memory module from the old board, so I've got 1.2 gigs of RAM on it now.

Still have to see if the Linux side of the box works, then its off to the store for a new UPS and surge protectors. Had another nasty storm last night, glad the new board didn't come until today.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a lightened version.

 

[thoffman]

AHMMMMM Kraig..............I'm hoping you are going to light that bag on fire, ring the doorbell, and run like hell.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I'm not positive that this is your tractor's problem, but take a look at this page. I may have answered your question there:

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/94253.html

Start with Stephen Merkel's post at 9:27p.m. that night and work your way up the page.

Let us know what you find.....

 

[jdreaves]

Foot Controlled Hydro

I did a search for foot controlled hydro conversions and came across two simple examples. I wonder if John G. and Jerry H. could post some more photos of the connections and fabrication and alignment needed to make the conversion? Has anyone fabricated the parts to do this conversion as a kit?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE

 

[dtanner]

Thanks Art,I will take the shifter out today and see where it has broken the weld or the pin. thanks for the help. Later Don T

 

[aaytay]

Don-
Unless someone has replaced that shifter with one from a later tractor, you'll find that it doesn't have a welded-cup like the later tractors do. It's a cast iron-like chunk of iron that's held in with a spirol pin. That pin is likely broken....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, did you build that trailer? (the cargo trailer not the camper.

)

John-David, AFAIK no one has made a conversion kit for a foot controlled hydro. KENtucky Ken was at one time thinking about making a kit but never did. KENtucky converted his 127 to foot control. Steve Blunier was working on a foot control 149 that he was going to use as a loader tractor. I don't know if he ever finished it.

Steve?????

Here's KENtucky's 127.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I think EVERY Cub Cadet has at least one JD part on it someplace. I know I ran JD transmission oil in My 72 for about 15 yrs until 1-1/2 yrs ago. I did a bit of work on the reduction housing, new brake pucks, gaskets, etc. and refilled the rearend from the Landlord's 55 gal. drum of the stuff. I wouldn't mix it with Hytran in a Hydro but it's really hard to hurt a gear drive.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
It looks like your Original is starting to develop a bad attitude toward other brands now that he's sporting new decals.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny,

I've been using JD Torq-Guard 30wt engine oil in my Cubs for years. I get my brother's employee discount, and yes, even the owners give me the employee discount, probably because I've known them longer than my brother has.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, yeah, I think in it's younger years K4K used to ram full size JD tractors.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Time to post <strike>all</strike> some of the goofs.

Oh well, good thing I decided early on it was gonna be a worker.

I used that stupid "bare metal prep" stuff on the axle, drag link and on the lift ratchet.

The chips on the axle and drag link happened when I rolled it from the yard onto the driveway. I have RR ties as curbing along my driveway, the lawn is flush with the RR ties and there is a 4-5" drop to the driveway. I rolled it at an angle one tire at a time. I drive my 125 over it all the time.


I messed up the steering wheel hub too.

Time for a repaint.

 

[pbrown]

I've been trying to get to the bottom of my battery discharge problem for my 1250 hydro. After searching the archives I'm still not finding the answer. My battery has been replaced each year for the last 4 years because I kept think they were duds. Now I'm thinking it's the tractor. The battery is always dead. I charge it, mow my 1/2 acre, shut it down and try to start it again right away, and it is dead. From what I can tell it's getting a charge while running. I measured 13 to 14 volts at the battery. But, maybe it's not getting a constant charge, if thats possible. The energy used by the PTO seems to use up whats left after starting the tractor initially. Sometimes the tractor will die while mowing once the pto is no longer getting any juice. Which made me think it was the alternator. One thing I noticed is the charge indicator seems to be stuck towards the "charge" side of the neutral mark, even when the tractor is off. Not sure if that is a sign of whats causing the problem.

 

[aaytay]

Paul-
With the tractor off, disconnect the postive battery cable. Put an ohm meter (as a bridge) between the positive post of the battery and that (positive) cable to see if you have any current flowing. If you do, it's probable that you have a short in the harness and that is what is causing your batteries to go dead.

 

[aschumacher]

Paul B. Go to the topic "IH Cub Cadet Lawn Tractors" then the thread 'Alternator on Model 76 ...'. See if maybe something along that line may be affecting you. Your engine has an alternator, but cant see from illustration if it has a similar diode.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, I assume you mean voltmeter, or at least the volt setting on a Volt/Ohm meter! Using an Ohm meter where voltage is involved will usually result in the Ohm meter no longer working!