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Archive through November 30, 2005

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dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
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Dennis Frisk
TED, TODD - Once Kraig gets warmed-up this AM and sees these posts He'll probably post pic's of little skid plates people have had welded up with wider contact patches. Typically they weld 3/4" to 1" wide runners on the bottoms of the OEM skid feet angled upwards on the front & back edges. There's been pic's of little wheels bolted on also but whether they work depends on Your conditions. My drivway is all concrete and I really don't care a great deal if it gets a few scratches. I have My skids set at the same level as the scraping edge so I clean as close to the concrete as possible. My scraping edge is a piece of 1/2" x 1" steel bar with a bevel ground into the front edge. It tends to ride over packed snow. I may rework it a bit this year by beveling the rear of the bottom surface a bit.
 
Jeff S., 207<blink>2</blink> and yes there are several other models that had dual brakes, mostly the larger newer models from the mid 1980s on I'm not sure which all had them.

Dave K. Thanks.

Ted, Todd, here are photos of a QA snow thrower that had wheels added, this one belongs to Brian Jordan. Brian had to add about 5 3/8" washers between the skids and the auger housing to clear the nut for the wheel and had to put the two bolts that hold the skid on, in backwards.

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Most people add shoes to those skids to make them wider, heres a photo of teh set I made up for my QA42.

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Denny, if I wouldn't have taken the time to make that pot of coffee I'd have gotten that posted before you posted. :eek:)
 
Sorry this took so long to process.

Here are the photos of the hydro filters that Travis cut apart.

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Above are some of the various filters that cross to the Cub Cadet OEM PN: 923-3014

Fleetguard PN: HF6096
Wix PN: 51084
Stens PN: 120-265
Parts Master PN: 61085 1-16A
Fram PN: PH16

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Above is the Cub Cadet Filter.

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Above is the Fleetguard PN: HF6096 filter. This is almost exactly the same inside as the Cub Cadet filter.

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Above is the Wix PN: 51084 filter. This is similar to the Cub Cadet filter except that it has a separate steel nipple instead of being formed as part of the fiter end.

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Above is the Stens PN: 120-265 filter. The main difference between this and the Cub Cadet filter is the spring which is a piece of spring steel rather then a coil spring.

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Above is the Parts Master PN: 61085 1-16A filter. The filter element is nearly the same as the Cub Cadet filter it uses the different spring and has a rubber seal instead of the steel nipple.

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Above is the Fram PN: PH16 filter. This has cardboard ends to the filter instead of steel and there is less filter area. It has a rubber nipple or seal and an odd spring with a plastic retainer on a small coil spring inside the spring steel. I don't think I'd use this one. It does have a really nice rubber grip on the filter housing though. :eek:p

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 30, 2005)
 
Ted B. -

I use the ski/shoe method as well. Using 1/4" thick stock, it also makes for perfect gap adjustments.

All -

Well, with talk of snow coming (forecast is now down to maybe 1"), I needed to get out there and switchover the herd. Went to get the 1450 out of the garage and into the shed, get the 169 out from the back yard and swap over the 59M to the QA42A last night. Neither started, they just turned over. Of course.

So guess what started on the second crank and will be doing blade duty? Yup...

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All three had sat for a good 2 months since they were last started. Needless to say the Cubs are plugged in...

Sigh...
 
Fram - "Our Filters Suck"

That's what you call a "truth in advertising" statement!!!!
 
Is it any wonder that Fram is all you can find at WalMart?
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Dudes-- barely recovered from Thanksgiving and the daughters visiting. Put me behind on the construction book project big time.

anyway -- a note about filters. All filters are not equal. The number one killer of Cummins engines in Dodge trucks is foil from the top of Rotella gallon jugs clogging the piston skirt cooling nozzles. The number 2 killer is rubber from Fram filters. Cummins wants you to use an approved engine oil filter for that very reason.

I personally use Fleetguards (part of Cummins) on my CC, but would also use the CC. The Stens looks pretty good too. What's with the cotton string on the Parts Master? Cardboard ends on the Fram?

Kraig -- cool vintage pics and pics of the crawler. Thanks for posting those (and the filters)

Here is another Keith Burnham concept -- I don't think I posted this one before-- but my mind isn't too clear right now. I f I did lte me know and I will find somethin gelse for you to look at.

OK back to PayMovers and SAE loader bucket capacities.

OH, and thanks to all who have bought my book -- it is selling well.

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I wonder if those rubber nipples or what ever they are that are on the Fram and Parts Master filters are actually a sort of anti drain back valve or check valve? These are the filters that Travis sent I don't know if they all cross to the CC filter or not and I don't feel like doing that research this morning.

Charlie, yesterday you posted the list below of filters that cross to the CC filter, care to check the Fram, Stens and Parts Master filters to verify that they cross to the CC filter? How about if I say "Please"? :eek:)

Cub Cadet OEM PN: 923-3014
Fleetguard PN: HF6096
Wix PN: 51084
Purolator PN: L14670
Baldwin PN: B163 --- BT8486 new number
John Deere PN: AM39653
 
So where is this check valve that hydraulic filters are supposed to have that car filters don't have????
 
Richard, I guess tonight I'll have to have a look inside the filter elements to see if there is one inside them. Looks like the Fram and Parts Master filters may have rubber check valves. Or is it the other way around, engine oil filters have the check valve and hydraulic filters don't?

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 30, 2005)
 
Richard/Kraig,

Engine oil filters should have anti-drainback valves, hyd. suction filters don't.

Bryan,

Wally world also sells Motorcraft filters (Pure-O-Later manufactured)....great filters!!!


Hank/All,

The string is part of a manufacturing technique to keep the pleats in the correct shape as the filter is assembled...no big concern.


Fram - Real world results..... Before I knew better, I used Fram products. My 94' Ranger would always clatter (valve noise) at start up with Fram filters...thought it was the nature of the beast. Switched to the Motorcraft filters after reading the oil filter study Bryan linked to......guess what???....silence at start up. The Motorcraft anti-drainback valve WORKED and I didn't have to refill the filter and the oil galleys before getting lubrication. Like I said before, FRAM = JUNK.
 
SB -

Maybe at a stuporcenter but not the smaller ones around here. I'll have to look next time I'm there slipping movie trailers into all the DVD players (check my website to see what I mean)
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Those wheels on the QA snowblower were exactly what I was thinking. I wonder what kind of wheels they were, and where they came from?
 
They are mower deck gauge wheels and shoulder bolts......Cub Cadet, Lowes, TSC, F&F, Bob's L&G.....you cen get them anywhere.
 
STEVE, BRYAN - Wally-World did pull all the Motorcraft stuff several months ago (6-8?) but there have been reported sightings on a couple other forums I read that Motorcraft is once again on their shelves. I don't go to Wally-world so I don't know.
KRAIG - Person has to get their Priorities in order.....
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HANK - At least the newer gallon jugs of Rotella have a little tab to help You pull the foil seal off the opening.
 
Dennis --

I definitely appreciate those newer tabs on the Rotella jugs -- especially now that I don't buy it in the 55 gallon drum anymore. I even have to admit to farming out my trucks' oil changes the last couple of times -- I supplied the oil and filters though. I figure the tabs save me a good 5-minutes of messing around although I always used a screened funnel anyway.

Once, faced with an oil change on the road, I used a Fram on my Cummins, but I replaced it when I got home about 2000 miles later. There was a worm of rubber sticking out of it when I took it off -- changed the oil then too. I lost sleep for the first 60K miles after that. But now at about 120K miles later I don't figure any of it got anywhere important.

Bryan thanks for that link to the oil-filter study. What a racket that business appears to be.

OK back to PayMovers.

Hank
 
HANK - That 120K on Your new truck? I know when You start on a trip You put miles on in a HURRY! I've done something like 105 oil changes in My PSD. Always used either IHC or Motorcraft filters. And they are NOT the same filter for some reason. I normally cut the foil seal out of the Rotella jugs. On the noodle of rubber.... if it deteriorates enough in a couple thousand miles to fall apart I'm sure it totally disintegrated long before 60K or any harm was done.
Guess I'm going to have to build more BOOKSHELVES if You & Ken keep writing so much!
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