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Archive through November 29, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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rmcshane

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
587
displayname
Ryan McShane
Boy, why is it that when I try to help somebody out on this forum I end up getting my freakin' head bit off. That crap is getting real old.

Hey, I wasn't trying to start a big debate about what is right or wrong...I thought the forum was a place to share experiences? I had a 105 Cub Cadet that needed a new VR. I ordered it from Cub Cadet, it had a sheet in it saying it needed polarized. I took a jumper wire from one terminal to the other (I don't remember specifically which two) and touched them briefly and it worked, and is still working a year later. I don't understand what the heck the big deal is...if I'm wrong, I apologize...simply trying to help Don T out. I guess next time I'll just keep my damn mouth shut since suggesting something on here gets everyone bent out of shape!
 
Ryan S.
NO ONE got bent out of shape! LOL

Just everyone throwing out what they know.

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Under Edit!!!!!!

To Mr. Whatever,
Check the date on the pic you posted!
You'll find that suppliers and products change from time to time!
Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:39:26 AM
 
Under Edit!!!!!!

To Mr. Whatever,
Check the date on the pic you posted!
You'll find that suppliers and products change from time to time!
Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:39:26 AM

Huh! Stole that from a sponsor's site.
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Dave...good lookin snow crew...Where's your cab??..was out Thursday mornin..10 degrees..makes blown or excuse me..throwing nice..ran about an hour and did 5 places, now to day it's all gone
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My tiller and its gear box made it through the season. It was an amazing 65 deg. today so I took advantage of the warm day and changed clothes for the storms of winter to come.
From this---
292437.jpg

To this---
292438.jpg
 
Ryan - I'm with Charlie, if you re-read what I posted I said I "agree with Ryan". In fact, sure you can attempt to polarize your V/R for your Cub Cadet, but it ain't necessary, and I guess it ain't gonna hurt nothing, and, well, it seems like it really ain't gonna do nothing either. It's self-polarizing every time you turn the start switch, if I understand Dennis correctly. I sure wish IH would'a put some info like that in their manual, but then again, I guess all the guys that know about the old units with V/Rs and Generators wouldn't understand how it could work.
And as for starting a debate - well, I guess there is one going on between Charlie and Frank. I see some pretty clear instructions in that link Frank posted (that he stole from a sponsor). Course if you look closely at the instructions they show the old style V/R that had a curved mount attached on it so you could mount it directly on top of the generator. All this gets to why I said you're better off without instructions that just get confusing. Seems to me as long as the terminals are all marked any good parts replacer (like me) is going to just install and hook the wires up to the same place they were before.

Charlie - do you think it might be time to add a new FAQ ? Like, how do I install a new V/R?

But before you answer that - I do have a question? What do you do if your old V/R has a Grd or Ground terminal, and your new V/R does not? (The 1x8/9 series do have a pig tail Ground wire coming off the battery Ground in the battery box, that connects to the V/R in the battery box. Do you just connect the pig tail ground to the mounting bolt for the V/R???
 
Harry

instructions would have saved me some $$ ; because the VR has no markings on the bottom and I assumed it was Ground like the one I removed. and the person that posted if it was used and not grounded it would be toast. I think that bottom terminal should have been marked or I should have been given instructions as to how to install it correctly.
 
Didn't know voltage regulators could get some so fired up.
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Who knew? Chargingly and regulatorily shocking...........
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Ryan,
Grab a cold one and, what did that Packer's Quarterback say? R-E-L-A-X. Did I mention I'm a Bear's fan? I don't think anyone's questioning your opinion. By seeing what Frank posted, those were prolly in the VR box that you picked up with the instructions to polarize. No biggie......
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Ok so I have lots of chocolate,some Midol and some tampax for anyone who is cranky....BAHAHAHAHA sorry I couldnt resist
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All I want to know is how why you guys are burning VRs up.. My 129's is 40 years old and other than a love tap once in a while , it just sits there next to the battery quietly regulating voltage...
 
Mick, I have a soft cab on the 1450 that sports the QA42A, bit it's rather shabby looking and has fitment issues as well as a busted window in the rear curtain. I'm hoping that Dubuque Canvas can repair that for me this week.

I picked up a nice soft side cab that was on an off topic tractor last week. It is orange and has a fiberglass top, and glass w/shield in a FG frame. Came with manual wiper and small heater/defroster fan unit as well as red marker lamps on the roof rear. Will take some serious fab work to mount it on a Cub though. It's ORANGE of all colors!! so I beter not post a picture of it here!! Will really look weird on A Cub I'm afraid but if I can come up with a decent mount setup and it keeps the wind offa me that's what counts. A door buster price was the clincher on that dea!!
 
Guys-

First off, thanks to all of you that contributed suggestions and hints in the rebuild of my QA42-A snowthrower gearbox repair. This helped very much.

Gearbox is now all back together and the snowthrower seems to work better than ever. The inordinate amount of time spent in rebuilding this was due to the difficulty in disassembly – a rather ham-fisted mechanic was in this thing previously and made the job much more time consuming than it should have been. As stated earlier, the drive key on the pinion bevel gear had sheared, rendering the gearbox in a permanent “neutral” condition. Disassembly showed that ample grease was present with no missing gear teeth – a good sign. Grease was removed with a wooden spoon using a cap from a spray paint can as a receptacle. Note that the amount just about fills the cap.

292453.jpg


After removing the snap rings from both ends of the input shaft, it was not possible to drive the shaft outward (using a brass hammer) as the pinion gear would not slide over the end of the shaft. Driving the shaft inward would not work either as binding of the shaft on the ID of the bearings resulted. It was obvious that this had been apart before and someone had beaten on the end of the shaft with something rather hard and mushroomed the end, thereby preventing the shaft from sliding outward through the pinion. About 30 minutes of careful work with a hand grinder removed the obstruction and finally allowed the shaft to be driven outward.

Once apart and after cleanup in the wash tank, the shaft and pinion appeared as shown:

292454.jpg


A new key was made up (.188 X .188) from stock on hand. Both the gear and shaft keyway were in good condition. However, there was scoring on the shaft (and some traces in the ID of the gear) in an area where neither the gear nor the support bearing are located.

292455.jpg


After a little detective work, I concluded that the previous failure was caused by the shaft moving inward (due to the outer snap ring not being in its groove) thereby allowing the gear to be disengaged from the key, slipping on the shaft, and galling both gear and shaft. The previous ham-fist’s fix was to pound the shaft outward with a steel hammer, thereby engaging what remained of the key with the gear and refitting the outer snap ring (which I found was bent and not suitable for reuse).

Some careful filing and emery cloth polishing was performed to clean up the scoring, but the pinion gear would not slide onto the shaft with what should be a line-to-line fit. I then clamped the pinion in the vice between hardwood blocks and applied fine-grade valve lapping compound on the shaft and ID of the gear. Using the pulley fitted to the shaft as a hand wheel, I lapped the shaft and gear such that a very nice sliding fit resulted. The ID of the pinion cleaned up well too.

292456.jpg


All gears in this gearbox are fully machined (not powdered metal) and the contact pattern on the teeth showed a very respectable pattern with no signs of debris passing through. The shaft material is not very hard though and easily damaged by using steel hammers or drifts. Only soft brass or plastic should be used for tapping on the shafts when removing or inserting them (an arbor press would be ideal).

Reassembly with the new key and 2 new retaining rings (which luckily, I had in stock) was easy with all the proper fits reestablished.

292457.jpg


Rotation was smooth and the backlash (which is non-adjustable) seemed to be about right by eye-balling it. Not quite as precision as a helicopter tail rotor gearbox, it nevertheless is perfectly suitable for snowthrower duty.

Per Steve B’s recommendations, I mixed up a concoction of Valvoline Moly Disulfide grease mixed with 75W-90 gear oil in a ratio of 3:1 respectively. A new spray paint cap was used for a container to get the proper quantity to match what was removed. The resultant mix would still flow by gravity but was viscous enough that the term “grease” was still applicable. This was then loaded into the gearbox and cover was replaced. While the box was still in the un-cleaned state, I chased all the threaded holes with a 1/4X20 tap. The cover is now held down by stainless cap screws and star washers, disposing of the cheesy self-tapping screws that were original equipment.

She’s all back together and working perfectly. Again, I’m very appreciative to all that contributed their help to this rebuild. Thank you my friends!
 
Glad to hear it Dave!!!!

Mine ended up with 100% "000" Rhino Gear box lube (very heavy gear lube) and has run fine for the last 10 years, the last 4 or 5 with a 3.5" speed up pulley!

292459.jpg


Again, glad all is well....always enjoy seeing and hearing about your "super stock" 1250!
 
David ,looks very good ,lapping compound does a good job ,you sound like a machinist ,been their done that .David
 

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