Archive through November 29, 2010

[sblunier]

Gas:

Into each 5 gallon can of gas for my small engines, no matter what season or how long it will be stored, I add:

The correct dose of Sta-Bil for 5 gallons (2ea squeeze tops full).

4 "glugs" (it's an approximate measure) of MMO

Anything stored for long periods of time (yard equipment over the winter, etc.) gets an extra dose of Sta-Bil in the tank, run for 10-15 min. gas drained, and run out.

NEVER have issues.

Fuel stored in 5 gallon plastic containers, sealed & out of elements.

FUEL FILTERS on EVERYTHING (not cheap red ones either, the better pleated paper elements) This is a BIG help.

Sea-Foam works great for fixes (high doses for fixing the neighbors small engine neglect) and the occasional "maintenance cleaning" in the specified dose. It's really good stuff!!!!

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)

Thats great advice I think. My huski 225R wipper sniper and my 45 huski saw have never had any parts changed and are 10 and 12 years old.I`am having good luck adding sta_bil to there tanks and starting them. when they show white in there exhaust I shut them off and store.That has worked for years for me.I did three today (oil change and winter needs) on my equipment and have a few more to do

 

[dfrisk]

ART - It almost sounds like KRAIG has the Eco-Green Husky chain saw... you know... The one you pull the cord... then say RRrrrrRRRrrrrr, then move the saw back and forth over the log to cut the wood.

My Dad used to store his gas like you described, old un-capped cans. I couldn't get the gas to burn some trash one day even putting a direct flame from by Bic lighter to a puddle of liquid gasoline but the old '51 M would run sorta O-K on it.

I only get 5-10 gallons of mower gas at a time, but by the time I burn it thru my CC's or FARMALL's it's getting close to 3-4 months old or more frequently and I never have a problem with stale gas. Now sometimes I do have "starting" problems, but normally they go away once I open the gas valve on the bottom of the tank.

I wish my Stihl stuff started better. I have an 025 saw, a big leaf blower, and an Echo clone to the Stihl big straight shaft string trimmer and even with fresh gas, 50:1 mix with Stihl synthetic oil never older that 3 months old, I normally have to pull the cord ten, sometimes twenty times. The trimmer & blower have priming bulbs which I HATE! One too few pumps and they won't start, one too many pumps and they flood. I use Kwik-Trip recreational gas in them too, supposed to be enthanol free to protect small engine fuel system parts.

KRAIG - If you have any old...I mean 25-30 yr old Champion plugs, either J8, H10, or D15Y's throw them in a coffee can and save them for me. Those are the plugs I use.

Back in about 1985 Dad sold a real nice Farmall Stg II Super M to a neighbor, battery box seat, live hyd, decent tires, straight tin, ran good. About 4-5 months later the neighbor called and complained the tractor wouldn't start. Dad grabs his tune-up bag and heads over. The guy had just put new Farm & Fleet points & condensor and Autolight plugs in the tractor. Dad ran to town to the IH dealer and got new IH points & condensor & Champion D-16 plugs like IH used from the factory and installed them all. Tractor started right up. Dad already knew this lesson, He put Autolite or Motorcraft plugs (same thing) in his '51 M one time and after a coupe months it would barely start and wouldn't pull without cutting out. He pulled the tractor in frt of the shop and dusted off a set of Champion D-15Y plugs I'd put 250-300 hours on with my Super H and replaced 3 yrs before out of a coffee can, cleaned them up, gapped them, installed them and the tractor ran fine, pulled great. I just wish we could still buy "THOSE PLUGS" probably made in Burlington, IA, their plant was at the intersection of US Rt 61 & 34, NW corner of the intersection. I delivered stuff there several times when I was driving.

 

[wshytle]

Art-

I agree with everything you stated. I too "store" my fuel in plastic containers but emphasize store because I don't keep it long enough for improper storage to effect it. I also keep my fuel off of the ground at all times. I have several little quirks about things like that. I never put a battery on concrete for instance. I was told at an early age this will drain the battery. I have no idea as to the validity of that but since I heard it from several sources I just remembered and stick to it. Also, not to start another fuel debate but I still use hightest fuel. I was told it holds up better over time. I don't premix or add any stabilizer until it goes in the machine. At that time I have a dedicated oil "squirt" can for MMO and give about four squeezes to the gallon right in the tank. So far it must be working well because every head I have removed after using the hightest is a nice light gray with very little carbon buildup.

To keep things on topic I just finished hauling the 15th load of leaves to the woods using my large yard trailer and the 108/128. That is one sweet little tractor. Once it's warmed up it no longer need any choke usually for the rest of the day. I just jump on, turn the key and go.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don T., typically the place I get the wood from delivers a mixture of Red Oak, White Oak and Birch with some Ash and occasionally some other hardwoods like Hickory, Butternut and even Black Walnut. That particular load was mostly Red and White Oak. The load prior to that one had quite a bit of Black Walnut which by the way burns really nice!

Denny, as much wood as I cut, I can assure you I do start the chainsaw, if I didn't I'd have upper body strength that would make Arnold Schwarzenegger jealous.

 

[dtanner]

Denny

It took kraig all that time to keep it on topic.
They have been good to me,IH also , just wish I could have known that sooner

Kraig is that a ? 345

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I had a JD imported chainsaw my F-i-L gave me that actually worked BEST like I suggested. It was a model #55 w/14 or 16" bar if I remember right, and had cut WAY too many RR ties for retaining walls. I found a chain @ F&F but it had an odd bar that was NLA except from a dealer who had to special order it. I could actually cut a twelve inch circle with it the groove in the bar was so worn! Plus it had carb, flywheel and clutch issues. It would actually fall apart as It ran.

Going from it to my 025 which is actually a pretty small saw, 16" bar is about like going from a CC 70 to a 1086 FARMALL in performance comparison.

My B-i-L is trimming up some hedge rows on a couple of his farms right now. Some of the bigger limbs will get burned in his wood stove. Now THAT's some firewood,

 

[pvanbenschoten]

I just picked up a CC42 snow thrower in decent shape. I have not been able to find a manual for it though. On http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/ I can see QA42, CW36 and BB36 but not CC42/CC36.

Is the attachment similar to the CW36? I've been browsing the parts database which shows the attachment and adjustment parts are the same for the CC42 and CW36. I'll start with this manual for now.

I am putting this on a 126 even though the thrower is not setup for the quick attach.

 

[dtanner]

Paul Van Benschoten

A QA42 should do for nf. a wf used a QA42A I think.I love the sound of a snow thrower over me use manual labour

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, I like to think of the CC36/CC42 as an interim model between the CW36 and the QA36/QA42. I thought I had a datasheet for the CC36/CC42 but I can't find it.

I don't recall ever seeing a manual for it. It's close enough to the CW36 that the manual for that should work for you.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Thanks Don, but I have the CC42 now. This is "lightly" used and stored indoors most of it's life. I'd rather have a non-QA thrower in good shape than a QA that needs work. Unless someone wants to trade...

I'll use the CW36 manual for attaching instructions and for the lubrication guide.

 

[cbaer]

Kraig - Thanks for the transmission information.

 

[dtanner]

Paul Van Benschoten
This is a qa 42, and does fit a nf tractor.

I think this will move some snow !

 

[ljones]

I guess I just assumed there would be no cyber monday sales I didn't check.

 

[proessler]

Andrew D, To add to what Denny wrote... Click on *Cub Cadet Parts Lookup* near the top of this page. Then put 147 in box for " Product Model # " go to ATTACHMENTS or PARTS ....a slough of Great Info. PWR

 

[digger]

Or go to cubfaq.com.
http://cubfaq.com/implements.html

 

[T-Mo]

I haven't been on the site in a few days, but let me summarized what I missed. Spark plugs, fuel storage, Monday sales, chainsaws,.....I think I saw at least a 125 somewhere in there.

 

[ljones]

How hard is it to replace the wire terminal studs on my s/g? One of mine striped out, I have a generator shop in town but if it is easy I will do it.

 

[pbell]

Chris B.
No, basically the 102 transmission will not swap into an Original (not without a lot of work and modifications), but as Kraig said the gears will swap. The ratio for 2nd gear will be different (and is usually the one that is broken in an Original) so the 2nd gear sliding gear (top one) and the 2nd gear driven gear (bottom one) will have to be changed as a set to keep the total tooth count between the two gears correct (52). The gear ratio of the other gears are the same between the two transmissions, and you can change the individual gears as needed.

 

[jbaker]

Lucas about a year ago I had the same thing and matt G suggested a local shop. I have not done that yet due to not having the funds to do it.
Let me know how you do it if you end up doing it your self.