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Archive through November 29, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Donald Tanner
Guys I bought some Sea Foam saturday, It says it will stabilize fuel. will I have any issues using it ? (in The gas tank of my tractors)?
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Don, I been using Sea Foam in my cars on a fairly regular basis for decades. It seems to be good stuff for cleaning the injectors. I started using it way back in the early 1980's when I had my 1958 Willys Station Wagon. With the 1989 Dodge Daytona I had, after it had about 75,000 miles or so it started running rough and would stall unless I kept the RPMs up. I added a can of Sea Foam to the tank and that fixed it right up. It ran great for about 6 months then I'd have to add another can. Eventually I had to have the throttle body injector replaced but the Sea Foam helped for quite a while. That drive to the mechanic to get the injector replaced was sure exciting, I had to keep the RPMs way up or it would stall. Good thing it was a manual, an automatic would have never made it out of the driveway.
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I've never used Sea Foam in any of my Cub Cadets but I don't think it would do any harm. I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas for Cub Cadets and all my other small engine equipment including chain saws and string trimmers. I add it to the empty gas can(s) before I take them to the gas station to fill them. I've never added it to the gas tanks on the equipment. MMO is also supposed to provide some stabilization.
 
MARLIN - I remember back in '80 when I started looking for MY CC I could have bought a couple semi-truck loads of green/yellow tractors but it took me 3-4 months for the first CC of any kind, my #72, to show up in the Moline paper. I saw several more afterwards but since I'd spent so many hours on Dad's old #70 I knew it was plenty of tractor for anything I planned to ever do. It took a couple increases in HP, from 8 to 10, then to 14-Plus but it's still my favorite tractor to run.

I think the JD employee program was the reason there were so many JD's for sale, really killed the used market, employees could buy a new lawn mower for less than they sold the 2 yr old mower for so they ran them for two years for nothing.

IH did have a great program for Supervisors at all the IH plants. Foreman & higher could lease a new Scout every two yrs and 30,000 miles for about HALF what a monthly payment on a new Chevy or Ford bare-bones pickup payment was. And the Scouts you could spec out pretty much what you wanted, most were LOADED, 345 V-8, A/T, PS/PB/AC, tilt, cruise, tape stripes & 8-spoker wheels. The front office parking lot was half filled with new Scouts.
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

I thought I would try it and see. I cleaned a carb on the 107 this summer and it sat for a few weeks . It worked great when I had it running, but after a few weeks of sitting with no use I had the same issue with it.Its a mistry because the 149 always starts and runs great and does sit for a month sometimes and I have no problems ,the 129 had the carb gone through three years ago and works and starts everytime the same method used.I was thinking I should try some Sea Foam and see and see If it would keep the gas fresh. My 100 is the same with sitting and hard to start and works poor till I clean the carb. If I run that weekly the 100 it will keep working. I think some carbs are better than others or some small difference. Any thoughts on this?
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Don T, Its the ethynol these Kohlers can't burn it up. I have been using Starbrite Startron with some success. My 125 and 127 were giving me fits this weekend but I found water in gas.
 
Don T-

Do you shut the gas off then run the engine till it dies? I've found this will give carbs "life" after sitting for a spell. Be sure to shut the ignition off after the engine dies so you don't cook a coil.

Kraig-

You mentioned using MMO even in your two cycles. Do you substitute this for two cycle oil or add it along with the MMO?
 
Matt G-

Thanks for the quick reply. I keep it in a plastic container and above freezing (doesn't really matter I don't think). It is getting dirty though.

Thanks again.
 
Does anyone know if the transmission from a 102 can be used on an Original? I have some broken teeth in my Original transmission and don't have the time or money to fix it now, but have a 102 I can part out. Thanks.
 
Wayne, I add the MMO in addition to the 2 cycle oil. Been using it for years in the 2 cycle oil for my Husqvarna chain saw. I bought the chain saw new in 1992. I burn a LOT of firewood to heat my home. I buy wood by the semi load. Since 1992 I think I've bought 3 semis loads of 8' logs and two semi loads of 8' long slab wood. I also cut fire wood off of the 40 acres up at the cabin for use at the cabin and at the family farm. I've worn out two bars, countless chains, one clutch, one set of anti-vib bushings but the Husky still has the original spark plug. It usually fires on the first pull with choke and starts on the second or third pull. Seeing that I have 8' logs delivered I almost always run the saw until it's empty. Very rarely does it set with gas in the saw. The gas can however usually sets with gas that can be many months old but the saw runs just fine on it. This semi load of wood that was delivered in January of 2009 has already been cut and split. Part of it was burned up during the winter of 2009-2010. More will be burned up this winter with some lefty over for next winter. I already have another semi load ordered and it should be showing up any day now. I'll try once again to wear out that old Husky.
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Semi load of logs circa January 2009.
 
Thanks guys, I do let them all run off the Carb some before I shut them down.The 129 and 149 Carbs seem to give less problems and have not cleaned them in years.I use the same gas can for all (high test gas)in all my small engines.I have a bottle of MMO here that I got from Charlie that I have never opened and I think I will try that in the problem carbs and see what if anything happens. Hopefull les time wrenching and more seat time for me .I have four oil changes to do and just finished one.Later Don T
 
Chris, the gears inside will swap between the two transmissions. The Original will have a different second gear tooth count for both the second gear and for the sliding gear. It might be possible to swap the entire transmission case but you'll have to swap out the axles and the reduction gear housing. Hopefully someone with more gear drive experience will confirm.
 
i just bought a IH cub cadet 147. i have no love for anythinn cub cadet has made since mtd bought them, but the IH machines were built very well. i bought this machine for 165 bucks. the engine was rebuilt and then the prevous owner didnt use a set screw in the starter generator pulley. as a result the keyway has a chip taken out of it. i have 2 different crankshafts i can put use. this engine was overhauled and ran for only a few minutes 5 years ago so its still a fresh rebuild. the carburator needs to be cleaned really good, its all gummed up. the costs are going to be minimal, mostly it will be the time spend working on it.

i got a really nice machine for cheap, and it came with a fair 48" deck. i have been into the l&g seen for a while now, i also have john deere 112. so this will be another fun project.

can someone please lead me in the right direction with attachments? i know what attachments fit my 112, but when it comes to the cubs, im kinda lost
 
Andrew, WELCOME!
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The 147 is a "Narrow Frame" aka "NF", Cub Cadet so most any attachment for a NF model will fit. It's not easy to list all the various attachments. Might be best to give us a list of the types of attachments you are interested in getting.
 
how common is a blade or a snow blower attachment and what would i expect to spend on one? i already have both for my 112, so i could set up one machine as a blowing tractor the other as a blade tractor, for different snow conditions. i already own a 31 tiller for my jd which im happy with so i dont think i will be buying one for my IH, at least not anytime soon.


also what is the tractor worth when its all back together are running. someone told me 1,500, is that a reasonable figure. dont plan on selling but its still nice to know.
 
ANDREW - Welcome to the best IHCC forum! The IH attachments are EASY.... think of that BIG red Staples button?

With a few exceptions, EVERYTHING will fit on your 147. Most 38" & 42" mowers will hook right up to your current mule drive, but you may need a different length drive belt. With the IH 3-point hitch and a Brinley sleeve hitch adapter ANY rear attachment other than Cat O 3-pt will fit. Your 147 has the quick-attach frt frame system but the holes for bolting on older CC attachments supplied since 1964 for the models 70 & 100 should still fit. The later attachments for the Super Garden Tractors (SGT's) are different in that they use a wider drive belt to handle the greater HP but some will attach to your tractor, but to run them you have to swap out the 5/8" wide driven pulley for the narrower NF pulley.

The next model newer CC than your 147 was the first Wide Frame CC, 108/9, 128/9, 149, & 169 and the mule drive for the mower is different, it's about three inches wider. The next model series newer, the Quiet Lines are also wide frames but the engines are Kohler AQS series and rubber mounted with elec. PTO clutches and side panels which effects parts interchangability but not attachment fitment as long as you get WF versions. But some attachments like some snow blowers were made adjustable to fit both narrow & wide frame tractors. The adjustable ones are the QA-36A & 42A series. The NF only are just QA-36 or 42. Frt blades however were not convertible from the factory, but there's plenty of decent NF frt blades around that will mount to your 147 in about two minutes, both bolt-on and quick attach are available.

The early MTD tractors were built with parts supplied by IH Lousiville and are also great tractors, and over the next few models MTD did improve some weak areas on the CC's, namely driveshafts and steering linkages. They also increased rear axle size and spline count which normally isn't a problem until you get over 20 HP tractors used for heavy draft loads like plowing with LOTS of rear weight.

If you are looking for any specific attachments you might want to post a Wanted to Buy ad in the classifieds and look over the For Sale ads also. The seller or anyone browsing can tell if it will fit your 147.

Anymore questions just ask. We'll get you up to speed in no time!
 
Andrew - for a 147 I'd suggest a QA-42 snow blower, the wider std tires on the 147 won't fit inside the 36 inch path of the QA 36. You don't need the adjustable feature but a QA-42A would also work.
 
I think alot of the problems people have with the carbs in these small engines can be connected to how the fuel used in those engines is stored.

If you think about it, the fuel is the same stuff that we pump into our vehicles, but once it comes out of the gas-pump small engine gas gets treated very differently than what just got pumped into our vehicles. Obviously AGE plays a part in the fuel's quality, but there's more to it than just that...

Back in HS I used to work during the summers for a guy who ALWAYS had problems with every small engine he owned. His engines never ran right, and it seems like he was always pulling a carb apart from something. Now that I think about it, he had about 10 gas-cans all in varying states of "crap" kicking around his place. Some were rusty steel cans, some were smashed up tin "gallon" jugs, and one of them even had a rag stuffed in the mouth of it because he'd lost the lid! Since he had so many cans, none of it was fresh, and he never took the time to keep the situation "controlled". (Left cans out in the rain, left cans out in the hot sun for weeks on end, etc, etc...)

Another tough thing on fuel is condensation. If you store your gas cans on the ground in an unheated garage, you're asking for trouble in my opinion...

The day after Thanksgiving it was 8-degrees at my house. Yesterday it was 43 degrees, and in two days its supposed to be back down to the upper-20's. What do you think THAT type of temp-swing does to a can of fuel that's already 3-months old? Not much that's good for ANY engine!

I'm not always good about it, but I "try" to keep my fuel cans on something other than the ground. It could be a shelf, or just a board under the can, but I'm not a fan of keeping fuel on the ground, close to condensating concrete or worse, a dirt floor. Also, do you always check to make sure the cap and little "vent" are always secured when you leave your fuel can? Just these little things can go a long way to keep stuff in your fuel that's supposed to be "in" and other stuff out of your fuel that's supposed to be "out".

Kraig-
" I've worn out two bars, countless chains, one clutch, one set of anti-vib bushings but the Husky still has the original spark plug."

Forget it, I'm cancelling my order to Charlie. He probably would just put a note in my box that read, "Ask Kraig for your sparkplug".
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Art, what makes you think I'd part with any of my spark plugs?
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Well, I might be able to find an old Champion you could have.
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Kraig
what kind of wood is that?

Art

We have to use a plastic aproved gas container here for at least since 1973 I think. My gas container has no small air vent,they all strip and leak I find.I have one container for Fuel (yellow) and a red for gas .I`am doing some maintance on my off topic Snapper blower , an oil change and drive belt adjustment. It sometimes dose not want to back up.I do take good care with all my equipment and do the maintance on all. As I get older I realize I have WAY to much equipment that needs proper care. You must compile reports for some one ? You do have the gift lol.Warning off topic alert !
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This has 60 hrs on it lol. I need to have a yard sale . I bought it after a big snow storm 8 years ago.
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