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Archive through November 28, 2014

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Harry,
I have no problem disagreeing with Denny on Hytran in the gear box.
No freakin way would I use only Hytran!

Now If I lived near the Arctic Circle, maybe, LOL

Now mix a little Hytran with the grease, ya sure you betcha, I'd do that!
biggrin.gif
 
CHARLIE - If it makes you feel better, I DID drill & tap 1/8th inch NPT threads and install a grease zerk in the gearbox... to seal the box and let pressure in/out as it heats & cools.

It never ran hot when I did actually use the blower, still had snow piled on top of it when I was done.
 
Well harry and all I did a gear box last year for the 450 and used 80 -90 gear lube and bearing grease. Mixed the two together and laid the box out side for the night (cold night BBBBBBBRRRRRRRRRRRR. all was flowing in the am . so as long as what you use makes the grease (lubricate ) all the bearings and help with heat I think the amount and what used is depends on the climate .
Now Harry

I been having a charge issue with my 149 . chagrining with a battery maintainer when parked helps keep the tractor always starting and working for the short times I need it. I ordered two new regulators from Charlie and well that did not work to well for me lol. Seems I used the underneath plug for ground and not gen as Charlie pointed out.I think he posted to used the other side of the solenoid and attach a wire there and run it to the bottom of the other new regulator I bought. standunder .
 
Straight hytran in the gearbox,, no way not in my QA36,, now as Charlie/Don said mix grease and hytran together and now we are talking
 
Jeff - My pos Chevy Luv p/u truck would not shift gears when temps dropped around zero. It was supposed to have 30w motor oil in it. I drove it out to Dad's one Saturday and changed the oil to Hy-Tran. Trans shifted great after that.

You use Hy-Tran in your Cub Cadets, so what's the difference of using it in your QA 36\42?
 
One reason it will start leaking. the bearing seals are not tight enough for oil that thin. any gearbox works and last longer with a half and half mix of 80\90 gear oil and grease.
 
Well not to argue because I am done after this,
but I don't think that gearbox was meant to hold a all liquid lube (not that it can't) but I think the seals and cover plate would leak.
I use hytran in cub cadet because a hydro requires the liquid fluid to run the hydro
 
Denny

I`am sure you know most 2500 series rearends would chatter and be a real pain without a friction modafier to keep the clutches happy when turning .When I took the gear box cover off I found a dried up mess and thought it should have a grease and something to keep it in a fluid like state so it would better handle peirods of non use .so the mixture was used to prevent this drying up of the fluid . I think this mix is safer for the way the gear box sees use and does prevent drying up of just the grease. also fluid alone would not transfer heat as well as the more dense mix.
 
90 degree angle gear box on my snow thrower is running 30 weight from what I can remember. I'd guess it's been doing that since day one. Unless there was grease in there from the factory, I've been squirting Pennsoil in there letting it seek it's own level with the fill plug out. No leaks, back bearing is getting lub. I do only see water drops on there after a "Snow Job"
 
Now I thought this was a decision on gear boxes and what lube we all use. excuse me !
 
Mike H - many of the older 3 bolt mounting gear boxes did come with a fill plug in the cap. Don't recall if they were used on any of the QA series but I think the earlier manuals did call out gear oil. I see the CW36 thrower manual calls out 140W gear oil, and the 1A tiller manual calls out 80W gear oil. I don't know why you'd use a heavier oil in a cold weather unit. Seems like it should be ther other way around but the tillers go along time, and for that matter all of the gear boxes seem to me to go along time so maybe it doesn't make awhole lot of difference in the end - except half grease and half gear oil or HyTran makes alot more sense.

Donny T - I wish I could help with your charging but you've gone down the path I can't understand what you've done (other than grounding the Gen terminal). Why don't you just wire up the new V/R correctly?
 
Harry B

Well now that I know what wire is to be conected to that plug on the regulator ; I WILL GET ANOTHGER WIRE AND RUN IT BACK. Instructions were missing in my box of new parts.
 
Don T.
Standing on the left side of the tractor on the air filter side and on a box, (cause your short) the wiring will look exactly like this.
292413.jpg
 
Don T.- You know you need to polarize that VR to make it work, right?
 
Ryan - Actually, the vr is depolarized every time the key switch or starter button is pushed on a sg-equipped cc.

No separate polarization needed or possible. The vr will be re-polarized on the next start.
 
Transmissions and Gear Boxes.

Transmissions manual or hydro use fluids for the flow that grease/gear lube lack. The manual transmission has sliding gears/shafts, a higher viscosity lube will not get between the slip fit parts or flow in a hydro. The gears in a transmission produce stress on the lubricate and higher viscosity works better here. There is a balance between high (thick) and low (thin) viscosities when in a transmission; 20wt to 30wt is the average. Standard hydraulic oil is around 32wt.

Gear boxes that don’t have speed selection benefit from higher viscosity lubes. The higher viscosity makes the lube more resistant to the stresses at the gears contact loads. A 30wt oil will not hold up the stress as well as a 80-90wt.

I rebuild my QA gear box 10 years ago, the grease at the outer bearings was mostly just the paraffin’s, no lubricant really. I replaced all bearings, new cover gasket (cork) and only used a 90wt gear lube, no grease. I filled the box about 70-75%, leaving a small volume of air for thermal expansion. The box has never leaked since.

jim
 

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