Archive through November 26, 2010

[digger]

Tyler T.
CLICK HERE

 

[wshytle]

JB Evans-

If you lived in south Florida I'd say you're wasting your money. If I see something for sale and I want it and have the $ then it will probably go home with me. I'm not familiar with the 268 but I assume it clears a 26" path and is powered by 8 hp. If you have both the need and the money then it's a nobrainer. I would guess living in Pa. you will have a need so if you want it, buy it. It looks like a nice machine. It does look old enough to try and bargain with the seller. You never know.

My .02 for today....

 

[tturner]

Charlie.... You're too good! lol

 

[jbevans]

Thanks Wayne! I wouldn't pay $250 for it. Would probably offer $150 and go from there. Who knows. Just never saw one.

 

[rfuller]

Just purchased my first push blade today cheap! Problem is the sub frame was modified for a 4 wheeler. Just wondering if someone could help with what the 2 red dimensions are suppose to be in the picture?

Also, I assume the rod is no suppose to be welded the the trianglar part?

Thanks for your help!

Rob

 

[jbaker]

Rob I am at work right now but can take some measurements tommorrow if no one has answered by then.
Also I live just outside of pectonica if you want to see one up close or take other measurements as I see from your profile you live in rockford, I work at Rockford Memorial.

 

[dtanner]

Rob Fuller

I (guess)? from your post you are asking for the measurement where the sub frame mounts to the blade. you want to know how far back the quick connects are? and is this for a 149? And how much lift the sub frame has to connect to the rock shaft? I can answer in the am when there is light.I have no power in the new Cub storage shed.

 

[rfuller]

Donald/Jeff,

I'm in no hurry! Please take your time.

I am assuming the rod where the sub frames hooks to.... The rod should not be welded to the holes in the frame? Mine is welded, but I don't see how you are suppose to get the subframe to bolt up without removing the rod?

The only dimensions I'm worried about are off of the quick attach to the end of where the sub frame hole goes over the rod. The other dimension I'm looking for is the the dimension of the slots that butt against the foot rod under the tractor. Basicly putting the sub frame on the floor and measuring up to the slot from the floor. Also, it would be nice to have the measurement from the quick attach point to that slot as well. Looks like some welding has been done in that area too now that I looked back at it.

It's going on my 1650. Does the sub frame differ from the 149 to the 1650?

Hope I explained in better detail.

Thanks guys!

Rob

 

[masmith]

I recently acquired a #2 tiller in great shape minus the gear box. It does have the bracket for a 3 bolt gear box. I have a gear box from a snow thrower that has a 2 to 1 ratio. Will this work or does it need a different ratio gear box. Also, one of the shafts on the gear box has a slightly damaged key way. Are they easy to repair and are parts available.

 

[mgonitzke]

Michael S.-

The snowthrower and tiller gearboxes have different ratios and shaft lengths. If the keyway is messed up, you'll probably have to replace the shaft. It appears both shafts are NLA from CC.

 

[dfrisk]

JB EVANS - re: IH #268 snow thrower - there were several different brands of #268 snow blowers, the IH was yellow/white but I ran a green/yellow one years ago for my apt land-lord in MOLINE, IL if that's enough hints of the brand. They were made by some small mfg. and painted/decaled for whoever the seller was.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Terry B. That future Cub Cadet opoerator sure looks happy.

J.B Evans. Comparing the upper part of that 268s handlebar area to my IH tiller I'll bet that the Roper Company made that snow thrower. The gentleman that I purchased the tiller from was the "original" owner. By "original" I mean that at the time Sunstrand had an arrangement with Cub Cadet and IH that Sunstrand employees could purchase IH items at a discount beyond the standard dealer discount. This gentleman was at the Roper factory and bought the tiller as a factory reconditioned model with full warranty. So the odds are very great that Roper made those items for Cub Cadet and as Dennis F. stated manufactured the things under different brand names for other companies.

Last weekend Fancy got his new Carharts. He isn't quite adjusted to wearing them yet. We told him that when the weather gets really cold then he won't be so fussy about them.

 

[jwstewart]

I have a CC Model 682. I bought a Model 375 snow plow. Does the snow plow attach to the "Mule drive" assembly? or directly to the frame with the mule drive removed?
I am painting the restored 682 in orange and maroon-- Virginia Tech's colors.

 

[aschumacher]

Jim S. take a look here, look at 'Front Blade' manuals to see if anything there to help.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN - IH Dealer discount? WHAT IH dealer discount? I forget what I needed but I stopped into my local IH dealer to buy something for my Super H shortly after I started working @ FARMALL, My Buddy who worked @ JD Davenport was always telling me about his discounts at JD dealers. I walk in to my IH dealer, tell the parts guy what I needed, he comes back with my part and starts to write up the bill and I flip my shiny new IH Farmall ID badge on the counter and ask him how big a discount will That get me.... He looked at my badge, then up at me and said "Nothin'!". It was no harm though.... That dealership closed within the next year.

Guy that sat across the partition from me in Mat'l Scheduling for several yrs had a daughter who's husband farmed with big red equipment. He bought a new combine or tractor, and got the free 682 or 782 CC with it. My co-worker liked the looks of it and went to go price one. WOW, they're expensive. Then the IH Employee purchase program was announced, Employees could buy them under list price. My co-worker went in with his Son-in-law to see about getting a new CC and since he'd just bought the new Axial Flow combine or 2+2 the dealer knocked off almost another $1000 from the discounted price of that CC. So much for the company deal being a "Good deal".

Nice thing about this old red or yellow/white equipment, it really hasn't depreciated very much over it's lifetime. A nice H or M with good paint and decent tires sells for about what it sold for brand new. Same with CC's.

 

[aschumacher]

Marlin, does Fanceys new coat have a pocket for tools, in case he has to work for his supper??

 

[proessler]

Tyler Thoms... A 551 thrower fits serial #'s 821,060 & above. I think the main concern is 6"+ PTO pulley verses the 4"+ PTO pulley on the 982 & the belt length.

 

[rlowe]

Welcome Wayne... I'm in southwestern CT...

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Hey Guys, I bought a CC today, pretty rough shape. PO said tractor was a 72 or 73. To make this difficult the serial tag is missing and the hood has been repainted. How do I tell the difference? These models seem to be kinda rare?
Low production? Would like to restore this tractor correctly. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Ray

 

[dfrisk]

RAY - Welcome to the forum. The 72 & 73's are really almost identicle. About the only major difference would be the instrument panel right next to the decal that surrounds the steering column and down along the sides. The 72 should be yellow and the 73 was white. But if your tractor was painted it would be hard to tell for sure without the serial number plate.

There's quite a few 72's around, but fewer 73's. The bigger HP & hydro tractors were taking over the market by then. The 72/73 was mostly bought by the dollar consious person or someone with a small lawn that didn't want anything but a lwan mower.

The weakest spot on the 72/73 was the little Kohler K161 engine, everything lasted so long with that little of HP that even with careful use the engine only lasted 3 to 5-6 yrs. Your tractor probably has the replacement K181 8 HP engine but the outside appearance is identicle.